With or with out a hood scoop?

-
PG Duster said:
Thank you guys, I’m leaning towards not cutting the hood and buy another one.
Click to expand...
What part of california? Unlimited products is in Hesperia, which is local to me. I would buy from there, pick it up myself, and inspect it before I took it home.
Unlimited HAD a terrible reputation, but the company changed ownership, and quality has improved tremendously, or so I'm told.
See the thread about shipping a $1200 aar hood
 
Last edited:
what do ya'll think of the 4 1/2 inch dual snorkel? i saw one year before last on a duster at moparty and thought it looked awesome.

Scoop, Dart/Duster, Twin Snorkel, 4 1/2″ – AAR Quality Fiberglass

DualScoopXL.jpg


aar_twin_scoop.jpg
 
Last edited:
33IMP said:
What part of california? Unlimited products is in Hesperia, which is local to me. I would buy from there, pick it up myself, and inspect it before I took it home.
Unlimited HAD a terrible reputation, but the company changed ownership, and quality has improved tremendously, or so I'm told.
See the thread about shipping a $1200 aar hood
Click to expand...
Gardena California.
 
Last edited:
PG Duster said:
Should I leave the hood like it is or add a 340 Duster, Damon option offered in the early 70s. I’m putting it out there to see what you guys think, I’m in between about it. Your thoughts and opinions would be great,
Click to expand...

Never an option on any Duster, the Demon/Dart Sport dual snorkle scoop looks good on them as well. But get a spare hood.

I got 2 nice scoops from AAR Fiberglass here in Florida many years ago. But I don't know if their quality has been maintained. I wouldn't recommend a scoop without studs because those are usually cheaper and a pain to install. Studs can be a lot of work to use and can require a little hole saw for nut access in the braces, but a "bolt-on" is the best way. On my AAR scoops, the middle 2 studs (front & rear) lined up correctly with existing little holes in the bracing.

There are 2 OEM versions - the Demon version is flatter at the base and will fit better than the Dart Sport version that has a little peak in the hood. You'll have to talk to the manufacturer about which they have available.

Last, but not least, you can cut out the "diamond" that the underhood bracing forms, but you may still have air cleaner clearance issues. The engine isn't centered, so you'll have to use s smaller diameter, and possibly more restrictive, air cleaner to avoid contact with the braces.

OEM holes were about 4" and located in the outer "corners" of the diamond you'll see within the bracing.
 
The ones I got had the OEM dimensions.

OEM scoops also had grommets in the OEM 4" holes to keep water out of the engine bay and the scoops had little drain slots to prevent puddling within the scoop. Aftermarket scoops don't have that. But I would guess that you wouldn't be driving in the rain if you didn't have to anyway.
 
Locomotion said:
Never an option on any Duster, the Demon/Dart Sport dual snorkle scoop looks good on them as well. But get a spare hood.

I got 2 nice scoops from AAR Fiberglass here in Florida many years ago. But I don't know if their quality has been maintained. I wouldn't recommend a scoop without studs because those are usually cheaper and a pain to install. Studs can be a lot of work to use and can require a little hole saw for nut access in the braces, but a "bolt-on" is the best way. On my AAR scoops, the middle 2 studs (front & rear) lined up correctly with existing little holes in the bracing.

There are 2 OEM versions - the Demon version is flatter at the base and will fit better than the Dart Sport version that has a little peak in the hood. You'll have to talk to the manufacturer about which they have available.

Last, but not least, you can cut out the "diamond" that the underhood bracing forms, but you may still have air cleaner clearance issues. The engine isn't centered, so you'll have to use s smaller diameter, and possibly more restrictive, air cleaner to avoid contact with the braces.

OEM holes were about 4" and located in the outer "corners" of the diamond you'll see within the bracing.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the information and personal knowledge.
 
My opinion might be out in right field, but here it is. Your car has perfect lines as is. If that beauty were mine, I'd rather spend the money on having the impact bumpers tucked tucked back closer to the body, or else replace it with a '72 or earlier chrome bumper. With your paint, that flat hood looks fantastic.
 
70dart340 said:
My opinion might be out in right field, but here it is. Your car has perfect lines as is. If that beauty were mine, I'd rather spend the money on having the impact bumpers tucked tucked back closer to the body, or else replace it with a '72 or earlier chrome bumper. With your paint, that flat hood looks fantastic.
Click to expand...
That is my future plans, don’t you have to make up bumper brackets to put a 72 rear bumper?
 
My Swinger 340 is a1970, but the wealth of knowledge from the FABO family has the answers. Merry Christmas, and beautiful car.
 
Anybody Deal with this company before. The description states that you can bolt it to your existing hardware, including hood latch and hinges.

14783FEA-3E10-4511-9304-F3AB4228F878.png
 
Your car looks great as is. With the paint color and wheel/tire combination it looks pretty aggressive. If you're unsure, a 2nd hood would be a great idea.

My '71 Dart GT looked to much like "my grandma's car", so I added the twin scoops with the V21 style paint treatment. It doesn't look so pedestrian now.

img_6578.jpg
 
PG Duster said:
That is my future plans, don’t you have to make up bumper brackets to put a 72 rear bumper?
Click to expand...
So me not knowing your skill set, so keep that in mind. I tucked mine in as well and powder coated them black. There are a million opinions on the chrome no chrome but you asked specifically about tucking them in. It is very easy to do with your existing brackets, literally all you need is a grinder with a 4 inch cut off disc and a welder, and some patience of course. I mounted my factory ones then measured how much gap there was between bumper and body then cut out that dimension less just a bit so that they did not rub. Then lightly tack the two parts back together and reinstall, watch for “pitch” of the bumper. You may need to do this process a time or two but it does not take a lot of skill just some patience and it is much easier with a spare set of hands. Once you like it weld em up good and powder coat or rattle can or whatever paint application you desire. They are hidden so even if the welds are not perfect it is ok. Feel free to PM me anytime should you ever want metal fabricating type advice. This forum just has a wealth of guys with a lot of skills and all you have to do is ask and they will help.
 
Imo -This is one of those times where you don't want to learn the hard way. Leave it alone. If you have the extra money for a fiberglass hood w/scoop, go that route.
 
I like hood scoops in general as the hole you cut into the hood helps to eliminate heat under hood. OK so it does little to actually bring air the car with most scoops, they sit too low. Big tall scoops are for the drag racers.
I like the twin snorkle scoop but what counts in YOUR tastes.
The solution is to have two hoods, keep your oem perfect hood and find a decent hood for a scoop if that is what you want.
Sorta like us guys that have several different sets of wheels/tires!
I have a 64 Belvedere four door car I have done. Sorta two tone mild custom paint job, just a poly 318 cruiser. I have a low profile hemi scoop I fabbed out of 20 ga mild steel. Looks pretty decent and obvious not a fiberglass job. I am still having a hard time to convince myself too cut the hood and mount that scoop!!!!

IMG_0026.JPG


IMG_0029.JPG
 
I have a twin-snorkel Demon/Dart Sport scoop on my '70 Duster and I love it, your car would look great with one but I agree with everyone else, your current hood is in perfect shape and the paint is gorgeous, I'd definitely get a second hood and put the scoop on that one and put your current hood in safe storage.

Great points by @Locomotion , my scoop is actually an OE Mopar unit made of some beefy composite as opposed to fiberglass and with studs that go through holes you drill in the hood and attach with nuts. Be careful with the underhood bracing, I went a bit too hog-wild with mine and cut out bracing where I probably should have taken more time and drilled access holes instead. It all works fine but my hood does vibrate and shake more than it used to due to some of the structural bracing being taken out. I should go back in at some point and weld some small patches back into the bracing to stiffen it up, it's a bit unnerving to have the hood shaking when you're going 90+ MPH lol.
 
I cut the diamond out of the hood. Had to drill holes in the support arms for the studs. Also used a 9 inch round, 5 inch tall air filter to fit up in the cutout.

you can also get a drop base so you can put in a carb spacer.

I would not cut that hood up.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top