Trying to ID this Carter

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zmarty27

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Howdy and happy holidays!

I’ve got a 2bbl Carter off an old 318. I remember seeing an identification chart online, but I can’t seem to find the OG. I’m pretty green to this stuff and the search bar on the forum is flooded with FOR SALE ads which is nearly no good for this instance. Would you mind helping me out? I just need to pin down the best rebuild kit (unless this thing is done for… it’s in rough shape).

Thanks for the help!

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Assuming the tag number is 6150s, it's a '72 318 automatic trans w/o Nox control application. If the number is 8150s, I don't have a listing in the car/pickup application guide. 8149 and 8151 are '78 225 truck Federal Man. trans and Auto trans respectively. It doesn't look like one of those, so, my guess is the earlier 6150. Yours has a broken bowl vent cover, which the last time I checked, was obsolete and not reproduced. You may want to source one before you buy a kit. I think I'd pull it apart first to make sure it rebuildable. If it has bad corrosion inside, I get another carb to start with. Also check for warpage on the ears where the long cover bolts are.
 
0790 is the date code - 79th day of 1970 -OR perhaps- the 79th day of 1980?
 
Thanks for the help everyone! I’ll be sure to keep you guys posted on the progress. I’ve tinkered with Holley’s and they were in equal shape to this one. Probably should’ve reached out for opinions prior to throwing it on the ride. Thanks again!
 
Before I crack this thing open and begin the cleaning process in preparation for the rebuild kit, I’ve tried to find a few clever tactics on some efficient cleaning and I wondered if any of you have tried this.

 
Assuming the tag number is 6150s, it's a '72 318 automatic trans w/o Nox control application. If the number is 8150s, I don't have a listing in the car/pickup application guide. 8149 and 8151 are '78 225 truck Federal Man. trans and Auto trans respectively. It doesn't look like one of those, so, my guess is the earlier 6150. Yours has a broken bowl vent cover, which the last time I checked, was obsolete and not reproduced. You may want to source one before you buy a kit. I think I'd pull it apart first to make sure it rebuildable. If it has bad corrosion inside, I get another carb to start with. Also check for warpage on the ears where the long cover bolts are.
I have Sucessfully used SnoBowl (hydrodflouric acid) toilet cleaner to clean the white electrolysis inside a carb. It doesnt take long, leaving it in the solution too long will turn the Aluminum to a gray color
 
your idle tube size .0295 ,075 mm using one finger and one thumb drill should just fit into bottom of idle tube, the other way is welders tip cleaner
 
Carb 6150 used venturi cluster screw 101-639 see by red dots in chart. .067 air bled just about all factory emission era slants used .063 air bleed with todays fuel it will run but close to being too lean. 639 econmiser or idle down channel restrction .055 most slants got .059. Now ecomiser is pressed in steel bushing so is air bleed but econmiser is inside that screw no air flow it will rust,rust takes up space no longer at .055. Best way to check it or clean it is proper size drill bit number 54
 
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I have that 6150 carb on a slant six . to make a long story short increased idle tube to .031 number 68 drill and economiser to .0595 no 53 drill. result good idle and off idle and low speed operation
 
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