EFI -VS- TBI which one-good-best-better?

Christine&Rusty said

The birth defect mine has is that trying to set the initial timing at 12°. It always wants to do 8°. I ended up using a kinda homemade piston stop for it, backing down and re-checking until I finally got it there (going back and checking it again pretty quick) but have this idea it's still off a degree or so...like just enough to make it run a little rough.


It draws a lot of electricity. About a whole volt when it fires. I was going to replace the alternator/voltage regulator next summer,

Click to expand...

Be sure you don't have the timing causing what is known as "rotor phasing" issues, Google that. There are videos on how to check it

Also your voltage drop is very VERY likely due to the age--old issues with the bulkhead connector, ammeter circuit, and voltage drop in the ignition "run" circuit

Start by reading this:

Catalog

If you do not do this bypass or don't do it in this way, the article at least gives you an overview of the problem. As shown in the article, CHECK the bulkhead connectors for condition, and MEASURE voltage at points in the supply path to determine what is and where is the voltage drop

ALSO you can help the problem by installing a relay to operate underhood loads supplied by the key off the dark blue "run" circuit

Cut the dark blue "run" wire where it comes out of the bulkhead. Take the bulkhead end and us it to trigger a (such as Bosch) relay, and feed the relay through a large fuse or breaker off the starter relay "big stud." Feed the switched contact back to the engine bay end of the wire you cut, as well as the "trigger on" circuit of your efi.

By the way voltage drop in that circuit CAUSES OVERCHARGING because the VR receives low voltage and "thinks" it needs to charge more