I’m tasked to fix an iron head. Is a Mig OK? Or moust it be a stick?
Iron head welding
- Thread starter rumblefish360
- Start date
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Have to ask the pros. Nickel Rod is used for welding cast iron. Used it to weld broken cast iron drill press base stand.
Still holding 20 years later. Short welds, quick cooling, and tap tap tap for relieving stress after every short weld.
As a rule cast iron does not weld well. Have to ask people at Cylinder Head Service how they do it.
Still holding 20 years later. Short welds, quick cooling, and tap tap tap for relieving stress after every short weld.
As a rule cast iron does not weld well. Have to ask people at Cylinder Head Service how they do it.
I’ve used stainless Tig playing around to see what I could do. Weld grind, weld grind. It was a spot between number 3 and 5 cylinder and turned out good.
Is there any truth to pre heating the piece? Clean clean clean?
Do an internet search for "Muggy Weld".
Pushrod hole into inch air port from over porting.
I have thought about what you do on the aluminum heads with the brass tube and JB Weld.
Thanks everyone else. FWIW, FYI, not that it means anything, LMAO…
20 plus years ago I learned and was certified. Took the job, was never given the tools to weld and finally asked…
There reply was the job was canceled.
(Well THANK YOU for telling me, nice to know… ugh!)
Have not touched a stick welder since. Dabbled with my mig.
Semi off topic but I just bought these and hope to try them out soon.
Looks similar to lead slappers.
jos51700
Green Bearing thread connoisseur
Use a tig machine with a stainless filler. I'm dead serious.
I'm not sure about mig with stainless but don't see why it wouldn't work.
Stainless doesn't go through the phase change that cracks cast iron like steel fillers do.
I'm not sure about mig with stainless but don't see why it wouldn't work.
Stainless doesn't go through the phase change that cracks cast iron like steel fillers do.
Sorry no info, just typing.
I just welded a broken stud mount (exhaust) on a Subaru...I tell you 1 thing I hate welding cast aluminum, I'm definitely going to try the stainless filler with my tig on cast iron it's good to get heads nice & hot before welding.
I have a spare broken magnum head I'll practice on.
I just welded a broken stud mount (exhaust) on a Subaru...I tell you 1 thing I hate welding cast aluminum, I'm definitely going to try the stainless filler with my tig on cast iron it's good to get heads nice & hot before welding.
I have a spare broken magnum head I'll practice on.
gzig5
Well-Known Member
Regardless of method I think you’ll need to preheat and then let it cool very slowly. I’ve heard of using a hammer to stress relieve as it cools to stave off cracking.
For the pushrod hole area I think I’d just in weld tube it
For the pushrod hole area I think I’d just in weld tube it
mopowers
Well-Known Member
A piece of copper pipe with the end squished works well too.
gzig5
Well-Known Member
Those copper backers work great but you get same results from a hunk of flattened copper tube. I make them from various diameters and split and bend as needed to conform to panel contours. I usually clamp or use a magnet to hold to the panel or spot but have two that are screwed to a section of dowel.
If you have access, drill both ends of the crack to keep the weld from chasing it and making it worse.
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
They work great. I use them when I am filling in small holes, or if I have a bit of a gap to fill in.
The problem I FORsee is you are welding very thin metal. I assume the surrounding metal is thin because while porting, you broke through the metal. I would make a rectangular metal plate out of mild steel, & shape it to fit the exposed area. You will then be welding thicker metal, less chance of blowing more holes in the CI.
If the entire surrounding area is also thin = You have your work cut out for you.
Might be worth seeking out a Professional Cylinder Head Porter and getting an opinion?
Since it is a Intake Port that does not get near as hot = Perhaps a tube and a bunch of epoxy? My Superstock Small Block 340 heads sometimes have a bunch
of epoxy. However, I am only asking them to run hard for 9 or 10 Seconds!
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Minor correction in hood to be completely honest.
It’s the pushrod tube into the intake port making it a bit tight. Continued below…
Rob news about to go down this path my self. Same idea John does with the aluminum heads for max port with when he does his porting, but started to think a little. Key point you made, limited run time for f the track is something I’d like not to do with this particular set.
What epoxy & where to get it would be suggested for this? I have JB Weld on hand.
Also mentioned above is the thin metal thinking in which I agree. I would simply use a die grinder to make the hole bigger until the area in need is about uniformly equally thick. The idea of a pro I’d like to avoid at the moment though that is hard to argue with.
Please keep it coming!
Get another head.
BWHAHAHAHAHAHA
Econo W2
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
Splash zone....or
I've run it on the street for years now.
I went paper thin on a couple pinches on my maxed j heads and this **** works.
Don't bother welding and blowing through the port... just poke a hole and apply it so it goes through then some on the back side as well. Sandwich it .
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