Paint removal

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abodyfan

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FABO Gold Member
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Has anyone used Eastwoods paint removal tool. I need to strip the paint off my Dart. Was wondering how it worked.
 
I haven't used one of those, but I have stripped paint to the metal with discs like the gray one on the left in the pic. I bought them at Home Depot, and they fit on a 4" grinder. They were about $7 each in 2005, when I did it, and it took about one per panel. The tool above looks like it would work better, but I'd check on the price of replacement stripper drums before pulling the trigger on it. The stiff scratchy discs won't put heat in the panels like sanding discs on a big grinder.
 
I have one... new, never used, still in box. If you want it, I'll make you a better deal than Eastwood will.
I got it when I started my resto, but never used it. My car is painted now, so I have no idea for it.

If you're interested, I'll PM you.
 
I have used one. My friend Mark bought it a few years ago. And we have used it on the 56 Studebaker Power Hawk I am helping him restore. Although it WILL strip paint, we have used it mostly on floor boards, bottoms of floors, trunk areas, etc. I don't think I would like to use it to strip an entire car. My preferred methods of paint stripping are, 1) Dustless Blaster (Mark has one), 2) Chemical Paint Stripper (that is how my wife and I stripped the paint on my 69 about 8 years ago), and 3) a DA with 80 grit. I know that some people really don't like using paint stripper, but I find it to be fast and easy. Specially if you have an assistant. She was a really big help.

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Paint stripper on all exterior panels is the only way to prevent damage and warpage to the body lines. DA is fine after the paint is removed with stripper. Heat is the enemy to metal when it comes to stripping a car. Unless the whole car is heated at once in an oven.
 
Contour works well to not overheat the panels but it will bog down on thick paint and you'll burn through a couple drums. If original paint it ought to work well.
 
I have an Eastwood works great only drawback is it’s heavy, so if you’re working on let’s say a quarter panel, your shoulders get a work out but on the plus side it makes short work of it.
 
I seen a little while back that harbor freight is going to release something similar to this tool in the near future. So drums should be easier to get and hopefully cheaper. That's what's kept me from buying one.
 
I have used one. My friend Mark bought it a few years ago. And we have used it on the 56 Studebaker Power Hawk I am helping him restore. Although it WILL strip paint, we have used it mostly on floor boards, bottoms of floors, trunk areas, etc. I don't think I would like to use it to strip an entire car. My preferred methods of paint stripping are, 1) Dustless Blaster (Mark has one), 2) Chemical Paint Stripper (that is how my wife and I stripped the paint on my 69 about 8 years ago), and 3) a DA with 80 grit. I know that some people really don't like using paint stripper, but I find it to be fast and easy. Specially if you have an assistant. She was a really big help.

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Which dustless blaster does he have? How does he like it? I assume you are satisfied with the results? Reasons for the questions are that I bought a used DB-800 and probably will give it the maiden voyage this summer. Looking for real world experience.
 
I seen a little while back that harbor freight is going to release something similar to this tool in the near future. So drums should be easier to get and hopefully cheaper. That's what's kept me from buying one.
Not always the right choice but controlled heat can do some jobs for about $20

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I have the Eastwood contour tool. It's nice, but like any other tool, you have to be careful not to overheat the metal. I use it in conjunction with my D/A sander and even the right angle die grinder with different attachments.
 
Which dustless blaster does he have? How does he like it? I assume you are satisfied with the results? Reasons for the questions are that I bought a used DB-800 and probably will give it the maiden voyage this summer. Looking for real world experience.
He has had it for about four years now. Its the DB225 model. It holds 100lb of blasting media. It does a really good job, but it is a bit messy. They show it on TV to be so easy and neat. You know, guys practically doing it in suits. Either we were doing it wrong, or it is messier than they show on TV. But it DOES work. You can easily strip a whole car in a day. One thing I will say is that the rust preventing solution that is supposed to prevent flash rusting for a few days does not work very well. You will need to get the parts / car dry and either wiped down with some sort of rust preventer or epoxy primer.
 
Paint stripper on all exterior panels is the only way to prevent damage and warpage to the body lines. DA is fine after the paint is removed with stripper. Heat is the enemy to metal when it comes to stripping a car. Unless the whole car is heated at once in an oven.
Paint stripper nowadays is crap, I tried 10 coats to get black wrinkle finish of my valve covers 6 hours later in the blasting cabinet they're done
 
Hi iv been a body man for 40 years and have striped a number of cars if you knowe what you are doing its not a problem to grind of the paint as long as there is no heat in the metall i use a cors wire wheel on a angle grinder paint stripers now adays is total crap blasting is a big no no huge risk of warping cemical striping is the best way to go but you cant do this your self back in the day i use to make my one paint striper but some of the cemicals are band here in Sweden if you grind of the paint there is one big problem.....if you use for ex 40-60 grit paper it whill show thrue the paint after a few years when the use of woc paint started 15 years ago the rec from the manufacture is no more then 120 grit thats a fact but if you use a wire wheel you dont have that problem
 
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