Door Hinge Repair

I will make it clear.... we do not use a bushing in the lower hinge. Just a steel pin of the correct oversize, just like the factory. The brass bushings were never used and will not last. Brass is too soft to support the door and will also wear out more quickly.
I use whatever sized pin it takes to make the hole round again. The upper and lower holes wear at different rates because of door weights, amount of lubrication that has been used, how many times the door has opened and closed in the last 50 years etc... In other words every hinge is different and no one knows what size it will need until it is disassembled and measured. The factory pin was a .338/.340 pin. The next oversize we use is a .375 or 3/8" We do have larger but unless the hole is centered and worn evenly there is usually not enough material left to support the pin properly
Then you need the proper sized drill bits and reamers to size the hole for the pin. Obviously the only way someone can sell you a "kit" that will fit is to have you hog out the hole larger than usually needed so that their parts will fit.
Like telling everyone who wants to rebuild their engine that they must bore the cylinder .060 over even if it is only .010. oversize. Because they only sell .060 piston kits.

We don't sell parts. We rebuild door hinges, completely. Not just a pin and spring.

Compare the pin hole sizes.
The upper hinge was the passenger side, the lower was the driver side.
These have not been drilled/reamed to size yet. You can see the difference in the hole sizes and offset. The driver was no good but the passenger was rebuildable.
We will only do it correctly.

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