Worth it to balance rotating assembly?

The factory balance job on these engines sucks. Unless I'm on a super-tight budget and using stock replacement pistons I make it a point to balance every engine I build. I'm currently building a 440 for my D200 which will see lots of towing and probably rarely spin over 5000 RPM but I got Icon forged pistons for it which weigh almost half as much as stock cast pistons along with 440Source forged factory replacement rods. I had the crankshaft balanced to the new piston/rod weights and there was a significant amount of metal they drilled out of the counterweights which is all good; faster revving, less parasitic power loss, less stress and wear on bearings.

BTW the very first car engines didn't have counterweighted crankshafts; they were added later (first bolted on then cast/forged integrally) primarily to reduce loads on the main bearings, the reduced vibration was a secondary benefit. Even 100 years ago with engines that could barely turn 3000 RPM they knew keeping the rotating assembly balanced was very important.

Here's a question, sorry if I'm hijacking... if my crank was already balanced to the rods and pistons would it be worthwhile to equalize the piston and rod weights themselves after the fact? I might call back my machine shop and see what they recommend, I imagine they just picked one of the pistons/rods and used that for the bob weights? I'm not familiar with standard procedures for balancing a crankshaft in that regard. And I imagine the weights of these aftermarket parts have a lot less variation than 50-year-old OE stuff.

EDIT: Just to throw out there too, my machine shop charged $215 for balancing the crank... not sure if that's consistent with most machine shops since I kinda-sorta know the owner on a personal level but at that price I think it's very worthwhile. If it was closer to $500 then I might say save your money.