Cam

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Jake Campbell

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Brantford, Ontario
I bought a 318LA for my project.
It has been rebuilt and bored 30 over (I confirmed this with camera all pistons are engraved .30 with what looks like a date code)
The problem is the build sheet is missing, the machine shop and previous owner have no idea about the cam.
I really don't want to tear into it and remove the cam
Took some pictures (not best, but best I could get)
Does anybody know what the numbers mean

Cam 1.jpg


Cam 2.jpg


Cam3.jpg
 
Jake Campbell said:
I bought a 318LA for my project.
It has been rebuilt and bored 30 over (I confirmed this with camera all pistons are engraved .30 with what looks like a date code)
The problem is the build sheet is missing, the machine shop and previous owner have no idea about the cam.
I really don't want to tear into it and remove the cam
Took some pictures (not best, but best I could get)
Does anybody know what the numbers mean

View attachment 1715845455

View attachment 1715845456

View attachment 1715845457
Click to expand...


That's a core number.
You need the numbers off the back of the cam. Tear into it... or pop the rear cam plug out a have a look.
 
Others May chime in but as far as I know those numbers are usually to do with casting and not the cam profile or model.
 
You could set up a dial indicator and measure your lift off the lifter shell and post your readings back up. We could probably tell if it was stock replacement type or performance cam based on that.
 
If you do not want to take it apart:
Dial Indicator on Mag base on retainer will show lift.
Degree wheel and Pointer (Coat hanger works)
and you should be able to get Duration @ .006 (Advertised Duration)
and Duration @ .050 (The important number.

Cheap Harbor Freight dial indicator/Base is Good enough and not expensive.
You will find a lot of used for it in this Hobby.

Garrett: You type faster than this Old Man!
 
I put my reading glass on =
I have over 100 aftermarket camshafts
in my shop - You cam looks like a stock or
something not much bigger by looking at the lobes.
Certainly not something big.
Is it just a reflection in the light OR is the one lobe
in the picture starting to go flat. Hoping it is just the
picture = Once the Cam start to lose a lobe it goes South
in a hurry after that.

Speaking of stampings on the Cam = Look for cams with "CWC"
cast in the on the older stuff. It is a much strong casting material
and more tolerant of higher spring pressure which you usually need as
stock springs with a few exceptions (440/6 and Hemi) are pretty puny!
 
GTX JOHN said:
I put my reading glass on =
I have over 100 aftermarket camshafts
in my shop - You cam looks like a stock or
something not much bigger by looking at the lobes.
Certainly not something big.
Is it just a reflection in the light OR is the one lobe
in the picture starting to go flat. Hoping it is just the
picture = Once the Cam start to lose a lobe it goes South
in a hurry after that.

Speaking of stampings on the Cam = Look for cams with "CWC"
cast in the on the older stuff. It is a much strong casting material
and more tolerant of higher spring pressure which you usually need as
stock springs with a few exceptions (440/6 and Hemi) are pretty puny!
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info, it's just the light, cam is brand new
 
Yes, I was thinking of a degree wheel, too, but got crossed up mentally on mounting it. You could use one of the sprockets that go up front and retain the indicator with a threaded collar. This only requires pulling the harmonic balancer. Use a spark plug hole piston stop to index it to #1 TDC. And have all of your spark plugs out before you rotate the engine with the breaker bar.
 
Garrett Ellison said:
Yes, I was thinking of a degree wheel, too, but got crossed up mentally on mounting it. You could use one of the sprockets that go up front and retain the indicator with a threaded collar. This only requires pulling the harmonic balancer. Use a spark plug hole piston stop to index it to #1 TDC. And have all of your spark plugs out before you rotate the engine with the breaker bar.
Click to expand...
Or use your Front Pulley to Mark some holes in the Degree Wheel and then Mount it to the Balancer?
 
If you do not have a piston stop = Just lick you finger and stick in #1
and turn motor over until you finger gets blow out and the adjust
the timing mark til it is on TDC (It will be close).

That was how I did it in the early 60's when I was a broke teenager!
 
Jake Campbell said:
Thanks for the info, it's just the light, cam is brand new
Click to expand...
Just go to harbor freight. Get their dial indicator kit with a magnetic base. Set it up directly on a camshaft lobe on the base circle and zero the indicator. Now, rotate the engine until you see maximum lift. Do this on an intake and exhaust lobe. Record those numbers. Post those numbers and we can give you a really good idea of what you have.
Here's the dial indicator.
BluePrint Engines 355CI Crate Engine | Small Block GM Style | Dressed Longblock with Fuel Injection | Aluminum Heads | Roller Cam
Here's the magnetic base.
Multi-Position Magnetic Base with Fine Adjustment
They used to have a whole kit with indicator base and all but I don't see it now.
 
Here's another option if you don't want to tear into it.............install it in the car and drive it just the way it is, if you like it, yippee you scored a home run; if you don't, THEN you can tear in to it and change it to something more to your liking
 
You could also look inside the valve covers to see if it’s got exhaust rotators or standard retainers. This will let you know how close or far from stock you actually are.
 
eekvonzipper said:
Or use your Front Pulley to Mark some holes in the Degree Wheel and then Mount it to the Balancer?
Click to expand...
I’ve done that one once with a value price degree wheel, I believe a mr gasket. Getting the holes on center can be a little tricky, but the hard part was actually drilling through it. It must have been made from a saw blade blank, because it was like trying to drill through a kitchen knife.
 
I can see from just looking it's a 260/268 .450/.470 cam...
 
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Degree tape it. Use #6 cylinder. Degree off retainers. Look for duration at .011/.012 valve lift, lift which back-calculates to about .008 tappet rise, theoretically........
that should get you close enough........ unless the lifters leakdown ultra-fast.
I would , as some have said, just drive it.

my guess; 240/248/112
 
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JBurch said:
Here's another option if you don't want to tear into it.............install it in the car and drive it just the way it is, if you like it, yippee you scored a home run; if you don't, THEN you can tear in to it and change it to something more to your liking
Click to expand...
Yep, your exactly right, will play with timing to find the sweet spot and drive for a summer, then decide
 
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