How much more is it worth?

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Veryfastdart

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I have a 1969 dart GTS 340 four-speed convertible. 1 of 58 ever built. I have restored the car and have a period correct 340 in it with the matching numbers transmission. I have the matching numbers block but it has two cracks in it from the previous owner letting it sit out in the winter and freezing up. My machine shop said it can probably be fixed, they need to inspect it, and they said it will be expensive,
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but their question was how much more is the car worth with the matching number engine?
 
The car value isn't all that much more and I wouldn't trust that block if it was repaired. It looks like it's past the commitment cone to me.
 
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I'm not an expert in vehicle pricing, but I would think that if you could get the block repaired for $2000-$3000 you would get it back in the sale price. That is really only valid if you are going to do it to sell. If you plan on keeping the car and using it, I would put the block in the corner and send it along with the car if you ever do sell it and let then make the decision. I don't know if that block can be repaired and be a reliable driver.
 
I have the same car in bad shape since I bought it in 1995, I would give $2K for the numbers matching block, been trying to find it since then and committed the VIN to memory 306021. I also have a 69 Dart GTS 383 4-speed and the block cracked in 1979, had it repaired at Indy Cylinder Head for $300 then, the cracks were about an inch south of where your cracks are, and it was fine after that. Your cracks are in a pretty strange place and MUCH worse than mine were though...
 
a good machine shop can put the numbers in the period correct block you have. Having the proper surfacing cutter and cross travel speed and the stamps . Copying your old block numbers is easy. What do you think they did with warranty replacements. Numbers were never perfect. I have seen many with wrong numbers. Here is a documented example

 
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Warranty replacement blocks had no VIN stamping.

...and a tag indicating it was a warranty replacement block.

That's what they did.


I agree- keep the number matching block with the car.
Having it repaired is a judgment call on your part.
 
First let me start off by saying you have a very beautiful and rare Dart. My original block came to the same fate in about 1984 a very cold winter in Oregon and I was young and allowed it to sit out without proper antifreeze causing the exact same cracks. Unless you're restoring your car to try to squeeze the maximum price out of it or maybe you're just one of those guys who is wanting a matching numbers car then just keep the block and move on with a era correct 340 that hasn't had major repairs. If I was buying the car I would rather have a sound replacement than a repaired original.
 
"It can probably be fixed"

I'm goin out on a limb here, but IMO, that block is DONE. Over and OUT.

Really nice car, though.

....and restamping a block? Not this honky.
 
a good machine shop can put the numbers in the period correct block you have. Having the proper surfacing cutter and cross travel speed and the stamps . Copying your old block numbers is easy. What do you think they did with warranty replacements. Numbers were never perfect. I have seen many with wrong numbers. Here is a documented example



Remind me to never buy a car from Oldmanmopar....
 
In mopars, numbers matching means everything. But that block looks beyond reasonable repair cost wise. Not only repair the crack but all critical machined surfaces need to be checked/recut. That includes cam tunnel and lifter bores. I would have it tanked, fogged and bagged then put in the corner. Let some numbers fanatic with deep pockets repair it after you are done with the car and send it down the road.
 
Remind me to never buy a car from Oldmanmopar....

I would not be too harsh with your words, he more than likely has forgotten more about mopars than YOU and I will ever know. Plus he has been a good guy around here, honest and fair.
 
I have a 1968 warranty block and a 1976. Both 318's.

68 has the tag riveted to the front below the head.

76 has a completely blank pad above the pan rail, although it is machined.
 
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As long as you keep records on the replacement restamp and keep them with the car it is legal. What is not legal is selling the car without informing the buyer of the replacement restamped engine. Another words don't advertise it as numbers matching. I never restamped any engines because I really don't car if any numbers match.

Only two numbers need to be there The vin on the dash and the vin on the title. The rest can be gone

When the Duster was wrecked the insurance didn't look at anything but the condition of the car and the Vin on the Dash. The rad support was changed the door was changed and the rear deck was cut out for the roll cage. Data plate in the gove box. Some of you act like these cars were built last year .

They are 50 years old and most have been through many transformations. Original paint Gone, Original Interior gone, Bumper replated, Drivelines changed, Most are memories of the past that we had. Who cares what they were . Its what they are and what you want. I like to keep them as original as possible but I always add my options and changes I like. Once you take on a rebuild its your build not the manufactures . I just saw this Documented 71 340 Duster By Steve Magnante

No drip rail chrome
wrong grille
no rally dash
wrong dash rivets
But just listen to him describe this original 340 car at a dealer

And he is not in prison last I heard LMFAO at you guys

 
If a shop says it “probably” can be repaired, then look for another shop.

there are cast iron repair shops that do great reliable work, just find a good one and have it done.
 
Are you planning on selling it? If not, then follow your gut on getting that old block repaired. Otherwise, I would keep it as-is as part of the car's proud and fabled history, crack and all.

Whoever is going to pony up top dollar for one of these well preserved/restored have a lot of choices out there. The fact that you have the original block, even though it is damaged, will give you one more thing to tip the scales in your favor.
 
I would let the next owner decide if they want to spend the $$ on a repair, personally I doubt it's salvageable, but definitely a part of the car's history. I've scrapped similarly cracked blocks, not worth it IMO.

Damn sweet car BTW, love the color combo!
:thumbsup:
 
I'm not an expert in vehicle pricing, but I would think that if you could get the block repaired for $2000-$3000 you would get it back in the sale price. That is really only valid if you are going to do it to sell. If you plan on keeping the car and using it, I would put the block in the corner and send it along with the car if you ever do sell it and let then make the decision. I don't know if that block can be repaired and be a reliable driver.
I am not selling the car and that’s where the block is sitting in the corner right now and if I ever decide to sell it it will go down the road with it I just didn’t know if it was worth fixing. I agree with the previous comment I might not trust it after it’s repaired. I wouldn’t want to put tons of money in it and have it fail. Thanks for the input
 
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