oiling timing chain 2.0

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Dicer

70 Swinger
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I really enjoyed the thread, “oiling timing chain”, and the picture in post # 94. The fuel pump bolt set-up shoots oil directly into the chain and pump cam area ensuring lubrication at all times. Had an extra oil gauge plumbing kit and plenty of bolts to lathe on.

First the hex of the bolt had to cut down and threads cut to accept the ¼-27 adaptor included in the kit. The internals of the bolt was then stepped drilled 1/8” and then the tip of the bolt drill to 1/16” (.0625). I am just experimenting here so the spray orifice size had not been set in stone.

I am going to tee off the oil sender gallery for my oil supply. I am running a high volume oil pump on this rebuild and more then likely this will be disabled until break-in.
Thoughts?

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I see nothing wrong with it other than you have to plumb an extra line. And make the bolt that accepts the fitting. Pressurized oil to the timing chain anywhere you can get it is always a good idea.
 
Run the line down and along the side of the block by the freeze plugs. Unless you have headers in the way. But you show manifolds there. Clamp it down in a few places so it doesn’t vibrate.
 
Yes, just doing a mockup for now, and you are right it will be clamped down, either with the harness or clamped to the valve cover bolts.
 
neat trick but seems overly complicated. i like the drilled plate bolt personally, but the core motor i got has the three bolts and dripper setup so I'll probably just use that.
 
Can you show us a good shot of the bolt?
 
This bolt is made from 9/16 hex bar stock, turn down and threaded, step drilled 1/8 throughout the shank. Then back drilled with a 1/16 at the very end of the bolt. The head of the bolt is twice the height size to be drill and taped for a 1/8 npt fitting, without compromising the bolt strength.

The copper line and fittings were used in the first mock up and no pressure drop was noted, although I am using a high volume oil pump in this engine build. One of the compression fittings leaked and no matter how many times I change out parts it continued. I blame this on the quality of the parts, fine China.. lol

I will continue this project using #3an fittings and hoses, it would be more robust in mounting and pressures involved. And it would open up the door for inline oil cooler.

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Just a short write up with what's going on, the copper lines & fitting are just too fragile for my liking. Went with #3an fittings and steel braided lines, a much better set up, it flexes easy enough and will withstand oil pressure, heat and vibrations. Will add some clamps and maybe some pig dick in the places where it may rub, other then that I like.
 
Holding more oil under the cover ..slower return traveling back to the pan...front counterweight grabs more oil now and with g force @acceleration. The oil goes up and a fan of oil is constantly suspended at rpm...and a spout worth coming back onto the front counter weight...extra oil..let's say the more oil it carries...the balance is affected...but even more oil is thrown around and the crank case mistifies...

Do you really want extra oil pouring in from the front? Does the chain really need extra oil or is this just over engineering?
 
My buddy who raced for Chrysler for years never had a problem with the stock setup on the chain.
 
Does the chain really need extra oil or is this just over engineering?
As posted before this has been already engineered already by Chrysler and is nothing new, the 340 which this is has an oil crank scraper in place so I don't see any issues with oil hitting the crank. I see this as a improvement for longevity, oiling and cooling.

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Factory racers never need a timing chain to last 100k. So I'd take their considerations with a grain of salt. This looks like 6 one way ( lifter galley squirter) half a dozen the other ( fuel pump bolt squirter).
 
I see an oil cooler in the pic. More to that story.

The tray doesn't cover the front counterweight last I remember... but I have a few, o can look again. The oil still gets thrown.
 
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