Someone please help me
Buddy TWISTING WIRES AROUND TERMINALS is no way to try and make connections.
1...As others have said the ignition module MUST BE GROUNDED. Not by a twisted wire, but BOLTED to a GROUND point.
2...The "whatever connectors" you are using into the ECU are QUESTIONABLE. I wasn't there, are they firm and tight on the terminals, or can you just lift them off? If so, pull that apart and get a pigtail connector. Last I knew, you could buy those and NAPA
3...I can't see, DO YOU HAVE a jumper between either the battery NEG and the body, or from the engine to the body? The engine, block, and body all must be grounded together.
4...GET THAT distributor pickup ( the trigger, the 2 wire black connector ) GET THAT away from the plug wires. "Dress" it close to the engine/ firewall for a shielding effect to prevent the plug wires (or other wiring) from inducing false triggers and cause misfiring
5....BALLAST resistor.......again, twisting wires is not "it." Buy yourself some "flag" push on terminals and do that right. TAPE on that ballast is NOT GOING to go far. Those ballasts run HOT and it will turn that tape into a "crisp" and may catch fire.
6...PLUS battery terminal.....how tight are those wires, can you pull on them and they "won't" come out? If they do, "redo" that. I do use those temporary battery terminals sometimes, TEMPORARY but you have to pay attention and get everything in there TIGHT
7...Can you detail how you have the coil/ ballast/ ECU wired?
One end of ballast goes to coil +. On your Ford does it have two small connectors on the starter solenoid? "I" and "S?"
Other end of ballast goes to key switched power. That terminal should also feed power to the box.
The "basic" diagram:
The wire at far top right goes to switched "run" power from the key. Your original harness may or may not have a RESISTOR WIRE IN the harness. Make sure that switched power TO THE ballast is actually "same as battery"
Buddy TWISTING WIRES AROUND TERMINALS is no way to try and make connections.
1...As others have said the ignition module MUST BE GROUNDED. Not by a twisted wire, but BOLTED to a GROUND point.
2...The "whatever connectors" you are using into the ECU are QUESTIONABLE. I wasn't there, are they firm and tight on the terminals, or can you just lift them off? If so, pull that apart and get a pigtail connector. Last I knew, you could buy those and NAPA
3...I can't see, DO YOU HAVE a jumper between either the battery NEG and the body, or from the engine to the body? The engine, block, and body all must be grounded together.
4...GET THAT distributor pickup ( the trigger, the 2 wire black connector ) GET THAT away from the plug wires. "Dress" it close to the engine/ firewall for a shielding effect to prevent the plug wires (or other wiring) from inducing false triggers and cause misfiring
5....BALLAST resistor.......again, twisting wires is not "it." Buy yourself some "flag" push on terminals and do that right. TAPE on that ballast is NOT GOING to go far. Those ballasts run HOT and it will turn that tape into a "crisp" and may catch fire.
6...PLUS battery terminal.....how tight are those wires, can you pull on them and they "won't" come out? If they do, "redo" that. I do use those temporary battery terminals sometimes, TEMPORARY but you have to pay attention and get everything in there TIGHT
7...Can you detail how you have the coil/ ballast/ ECU wired?
One end of ballast goes to coil +. On your Ford does it have two small connectors on the starter solenoid? "I" and "S?"
Other end of ballast goes to key switched power. That terminal should also feed power to the box.
The "basic" diagram:
The wire at far top right goes to switched "run" power from the key. Your original harness may or may not have a RESISTOR WIRE IN the harness. Make sure that switched power TO THE ballast is actually "same as battery"
