E-street vs Promaxx vs 440 Source
- Thread starter 318willrun
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PRH
Well-Known Member
For 500hp, it never has to see 6000rpm.
aaronk785
Well-Known Member
Mine went 11 years of bracket racing, and is on a stand as my back up motor.
Your in box is full.
Dave Freiburger once said, “Afford the best head you can.” I have to agree with this. Since the cylinder head is where the power is allowed to be made or not. This goes for any engine displacement.
I get what your saying in terms of not over buying. But you are in a catch 22 when it comes to making lower. Skip the better head and use more cam to obtain more rpm’s or spend on a better head, use less cam, make more street usable power. That equals less converter and gear.
j par
Well-hung Member
I love sending you on your fact-finding missions LOL I love how you suggest...
There's another member that's always suggesting that they've done this and they've done that and that other people aren't as good as they are at it LOL....
j par
Well-hung Member
cookietruck
Well-Known Member
i agree with this
tempting to use some factory cast iron heads if they will do the job with quality work, but if you could spend a little more and get 75% of the way towards the really good heads (trick flow), then i think that's a good choice.
I'd get Promaxx for the 440...but they haven't been able to get any castings for over a year now...
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I totally agree with the above and the same goes with stroker engines. If you younger guys never had an opportunity to read the early Mopar manuals that most of us old timers had two copies of and wore out the pages of. They gave us the blueprints needed to go by. In today’s society there is so much BAD info going around that it would be easy to put together a bad combo. Stoker engines with suck azz heads and small cams. Stock stroke engines with heads double what they should be running. So many questions are answered in those old books.
j par
Well-hung Member
You've never built a stroked 440?..
Stock heads can get you there easy enough . I had a 440 out of a New Yorker with maybe 9:1 compression , home ported 906s using MP templates and 2.14 intake valvles , small solid roller (.550ish) , 6 pack intake , 2" Hooker headers thru 2.5" exhaust out thru the tips, J-Convertor , Mopar electronic ignition ....
It was enough to push my 3950 lb 1970 Charger down the track at 12.30 @ 112 mph with 3.55 gears.
I also had a 440 (71 NYer bottom end) with a 284/484 purple stick and a TM7 with 906s in my 74 Shortbox 4x4 Powerwagon that would aniliate 33" tires thru 3.55s. It was unerving to drive in the rain with out going into 4WD . I yanked it and put it in my 65 Coronet 500 . It ran 12.90s with 3.91s.
I dont see why you would need aftermarket heads to break 500 horse.
It was enough to push my 3950 lb 1970 Charger down the track at 12.30 @ 112 mph with 3.55 gears.
I also had a 440 (71 NYer bottom end) with a 284/484 purple stick and a TM7 with 906s in my 74 Shortbox 4x4 Powerwagon that would aniliate 33" tires thru 3.55s. It was unerving to drive in the rain with out going into 4WD . I yanked it and put it in my 65 Coronet 500 . It ran 12.90s with 3.91s.
I dont see why you would need aftermarket heads to break 500 horse.
Yes I have but for many it’s not necessary. For an all-out race car it pays dividends to do so. For a street strip car it’s not always necessary.
thesiren74
Well-Known Member
j par
Well-hung Member
You do realize the op is looking to see tens?... Also LOL I might add... LOL...
He's fixing to see 12s in his farm truck with the small block that he has...
j par
Well-hung Member
The op says he's bought a trailer....
Where did he state this?
thesiren74
Well-Known Member
I have nothing in this engine except for tiny cam.
thesiren74
Well-Known Member
It's an example
thesiren74
Well-Known Member
Yeah didn't see that either.
Ok I’ll try to simplify what I am trying to say. A stroker isn’t needed to run 10’s. There I said it. Let say he’s going with a big block at 3400 pounds. Stroker not needed to run 10’s. Let’s say it’s a small block at 3400 pounds. A stroker is not needed to run 10’s. Now can you do it with ported cast iron heads? Yes again
thesiren74
Well-Known Member
I don't doubt a sb can do it, I prefer a big block.
PRH
Well-Known Member
448, stock crank, ly rods, heavy trw pistons, 260cfm 906’s, Torker 2, 850 carb, 2” headers.......3670lbs.......10.60’s @126
That was In the mid-90’s.
Short block built in 1981, was my daily driver back then.
Drove the car from Sacramento Ca to Vt in 1983.
That was In the mid-90’s.
Short block built in 1981, was my daily driver back then.
Drove the car from Sacramento Ca to Vt in 1983.
Are the 452’s reasonable to use?
Re working the OE heads is cheaper than new aluminum?
Re working the OE heads is cheaper than new aluminum?
PRH
Well-Known Member
Imo, The feasibility of reworking iron heads depends on what the machine shop costs are in your area, and how much you can do yourself.
In most cases, at my shop...... Stealths would be the cheaper option.
In most cases, at my shop...... Stealths would be the cheaper option.
Just to mag, cut, hopefully new valves, bronze guides, and a valve job on 50 year old heads puts you nearing 3/4 the cost of new aluminum heads, if not more.
thesiren74
Well-Known Member
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