I wont use them half the time they fail out of the box and new points have terrible spring tension also most should be 17-21 INLB new your lucky to get 15 except the accel points.
I put it into gear and it dies.
- Thread starter shittyslant6
- Start date
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Blind Squirrel
Well-Known Member
You wired the neutral safety switch in wrong and it's killing the ignition when you shift?
The trans kickdown won’t affect this. Yes just wire it open for now so you can drive. Don’t drive with it sitting at idle setting it will kill the trans in 200 miles.
is the heat crossover in the intake plugged or open? If it runs a few minutes does the intake crossover get hot? Don’t burn your fingers feeling it, should get hot enough to burn off paint after driving.
This passage plugged on a stock engine will make it run terrible. seen it many times.
What carb do you have? 900 Idle speed is to high and it is that high to compensate for problems.
advance the timing until it misfires and back it off slightly till it smooths out. Turn dist CC to advance.
is the heat crossover in the intake plugged or open? If it runs a few minutes does the intake crossover get hot? Don’t burn your fingers feeling it, should get hot enough to burn off paint after driving.
This passage plugged on a stock engine will make it run terrible. seen it many times.
What carb do you have? 900 Idle speed is to high and it is that high to compensate for problems.
advance the timing until it misfires and back it off slightly till it smooths out. Turn dist CC to advance.
shittyslant6
Well-Known Member
Yeah it likely has a small vacuum leak becuase when I was readjusting the float and putting the carb top back on, one of the back screws just broke in half. I was not even tightening it down yet, I was just working all the screws down before the final tighten. It looked perfect, no rust or anything. not even crossthreaded. I could not get it out since it broke in the hole so I just had to get a mini c-clamp and clamp it over the bolt.
I sprayed ether all around it when it was running and it didn't idle down so I think it's alright.
Oh my...! Never seen that one done before!!!
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
The stock points distributor has a long slow curve in it. If you set the total timing at 34 you likely will not have enough initial to idle happily on todays crappy fuel. So here’s what I suggest. Get an FBO limiter plate and set up your distributor now. My guess is the engine will like 12-16 degrees of initial timing and 34-35 all in. You can’t get there with a stock distributor. This will allow you to lower the curb idle screw so the transfer slots are happy and your idle mixture screws will start to work again. Temporarily (before you limit the mechanical advance with the FBO plate) you can bring the idle timing in (once you get a light) and tune on it, just be careful driving it like that as you’ll have too much advance and it’ll ping. Quick question, are you using a pcv valve?
shittyslant6
Well-Known Member
no. I'm just going to get a breather for it
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Run a pcv valve. The extra idle bypass air will help with the carb tuning.
shittyslant6
Well-Known Member
what do you mean by idle bypass air?
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
How do you check dwell on a electronic ignition system? I've never heard of anyone else doing this.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
The pcv valve is basically a controlled vacuum leak. You can (and should) use this as a tuning tool. The air being drawn in bypasses the carburetor butterflies, hence bypass air.
shittyslant6
Well-Known Member
ok so by having that, I can basically reduce the air coming into the butterflies making the idle quality better? and being able to turn down the curb idle screw more? correct?
I don't remember the dwell spec (and I'm not sure they will make a dwell meter read, maybe "dwell" was the wrong word to use), but the feeler gauge spec is .008" I believe. Needs to be set with something non magnetic like a brass feeler gauge or a piece of regular paper folded into quarters.
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I disagree. The PCV should be used for what it is. I don't think adding it to for a tuning aid is the right thing to do. It should be included to perform its specific purpose and be a part of the entire system and just tune accordingly with it in place. Same thing you're saying essentially, but yall are makin it sound like it's used as a band aid, when that's not the case. Millions of cars ran just fine without PCV valves before they were mandated.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
You guys are getting WAY off the subject. Let's fix the issue and then complicate it later
PCV? Nonsense. That carb should have enough adjustment range either way but it was designed to run WITH a PCV.
Dwell? You cannot change it (IF it is electronic) so don't worry about it. If you have points, set the points by the dwell, and a little "smaller" numerically to compensate for future wear.
Timing curve? You should be "for now" setting INITIAL (idle) timing so you can troubleshoot the problem, and if the curve is AFU then deal with it once you have solved the problem at hand. DO check and see if the dist is damaged, the advance stuck, or vacuum can ruptured.
I would "go back in time" to maybe 67 non CA and see what the idle / initial timing is spec'd and maybe even bump it a couple degrees from that
Make sure CERTAIN that the valves are adjusted IF THEY are not the newer "non adjust" types
Warm the car up FULLY. If it won't run at operating temperature, FIX that---missing stat, whatever. Adjust mixture with a tach or vacuum gauge. "Work" the carb into place with mixture and idle speed. That is, mixture and timing will CHANGE idle speed so as you get them closer to where they need to be, the idle will change. LOWER it back to where it belongs.
Adjust mixture to peak RPM when fully warm on your vacuum/ tach. You normally want to just "bump" the idle screw a tad clockwise from the peak "on the lean side" You don't really want the vacuum/ RPM to change much at alll when you do this. Get a helper, block the wheels, recheck idle setting in gear. BE CAREFUL and be safe doing this.
PCV? Nonsense. That carb should have enough adjustment range either way but it was designed to run WITH a PCV.
Dwell? You cannot change it (IF it is electronic) so don't worry about it. If you have points, set the points by the dwell, and a little "smaller" numerically to compensate for future wear.
Timing curve? You should be "for now" setting INITIAL (idle) timing so you can troubleshoot the problem, and if the curve is AFU then deal with it once you have solved the problem at hand. DO check and see if the dist is damaged, the advance stuck, or vacuum can ruptured.
I would "go back in time" to maybe 67 non CA and see what the idle / initial timing is spec'd and maybe even bump it a couple degrees from that
Make sure CERTAIN that the valves are adjusted IF THEY are not the newer "non adjust" types
Warm the car up FULLY. If it won't run at operating temperature, FIX that---missing stat, whatever. Adjust mixture with a tach or vacuum gauge. "Work" the carb into place with mixture and idle speed. That is, mixture and timing will CHANGE idle speed so as you get them closer to where they need to be, the idle will change. LOWER it back to where it belongs.
Adjust mixture to peak RPM when fully warm on your vacuum/ tach. You normally want to just "bump" the idle screw a tad clockwise from the peak "on the lean side" You don't really want the vacuum/ RPM to change much at alll when you do this. Get a helper, block the wheels, recheck idle setting in gear. BE CAREFUL and be safe doing this.
You're right about not changing dwell, but the air gap is adjustable on the pickup. It does need to be correct. You can see the adjustment in this picture.
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
The gap is between.006"- .010". I've always set mine at .008" and with either a brass or plastic feeler gauge only.
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
The neutral safety switch is not the problem either, if it's wired wrong the engine will not start. Besides, the switch has a plug on it
mygasser
Well-Known Member
i agree about hooking up the kickdown correctly. it's not just a kickdown cable, it controls line pressure in the box. if it's not right the box may last 10 miles if you're lucky. a temp' fix is to zip tie the kickdown lever on the box about halfway through it's travel. that'll keep line pressure ok to use it. and before anyone says not to do that it won't work i've had both 727's and 904's like it for a long time as daily drivers that got driven hard.
neil.
neil.
shittyslant6
Well-Known Member
ok, I will post updates tomorrow when I do this. It took me all day to find a dial back inductive timing light. pep boys does not have one, napa does not have one, o'reillys does not have one or even rent them anymore becuase nobody uses them. finally, I had to go to my local discount old-overflow-auto parts store stuff. they had three different ones to choose from and way cheaper than any other ones I HAD found
and I scored NOS plymouth brake parts too.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Yea maybe I used the wrong wording when I said to add it as a tuning tool. But there is zero downside to using one and actually significant sealing benefits and maybe even a little power in the ring seal. The idle bypass air will definitely help the stalling while in gear problem. That’s really the point I was making. I do agree with @67Dart273 tjough I think we wandered a little off course.
shittyslant6
Well-Known Member
cant adjust them, they are the later ones. the engine is a 73.
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