1968 Barracuda Notch 340
Probably should have made the jump to TIG long ago so everyone says and I never planned on doing the welding on any body panels but, here we are. I keep finding ways to make this entry level Lincoln Mig work. For occasional heavier work related repairs in the shop I can get way more heat for 1/4" and thicker by running #6 cable cord/ spider box direct from the panel. For thin work like this, I found that ( mainly due to vision issues, yes ive got magnifier helmet lens) on high (D) heat setting, wire speed at about 5.5, a rapid spot welding approach gives me great control and penetration without burn through. As long as my position is really good and comfortable. The momentary nature of this approach allows minute trajectory adjustments as needed and I can go slow. 6 dots, air wash, move to a new area to control heat warpage. The litmus test of course is what's left after grinding. This weld at the center is good, no holes, no additional spot welds needed. Got lucky.
Probably should have made the jump to TIG long ago so everyone says and I never planned on doing the welding on any body panels but, here we are. I keep finding ways to make this entry level Lincoln Mig work. For occasional heavier work related repairs in the shop I can get way more heat for 1/4" and thicker by running #6 cable cord/ spider box direct from the panel. For thin work like this, I found that ( mainly due to vision issues, yes ive got magnifier helmet lens) on high (D) heat setting, wire speed at about 5.5, a rapid spot welding approach gives me great control and penetration without burn through. As long as my position is really good and comfortable. The momentary nature of this approach allows minute trajectory adjustments as needed and I can go slow. 6 dots, air wash, move to a new area to control heat warpage. The litmus test of course is what's left after grinding. This weld at the center is good, no holes, no additional spot welds needed. Got lucky.
