PCM memory error code

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A56

A56

MoPar Affliction
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Not sure if any other folks ran into this issue:
2002 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9 gas 190,220 miles, automatic, 4x4.
So the other day the truck threw a code.
after turning the key on and off three times, code P0601 came up on the odometer. Found out that it's a PCM memory error code. (early dementia I'm guessing). Called the Dodge dealer to see about either getting mine re flashed (if that's an option) or getting a new PCM and having it flashed. Well PCM's are no longer available for my truck and this dealership told me that I have to scour other dealerships that may have the ability to fix this. Already struck out at another one as well. Truck still operates, starts, stops and goes but that light is annoying. Anyone have similar results? TIA
 
Put a code reader on it and see if u can clear it. Idt it will clear by just removing the battery cables. Some ppl touch the cables together when they have them off. Ur u can try it first. Kim
 
oldkimmer said:
Put a code reader on it and see if u can clear it. Idt it will clear by just removing the battery cables. Some ppl touch the cables together when they have them off. Ur u can try it first. Kim
Click to expand...
Correct, disconnecting the cables was a bust. There's another short procedure that includes removing the pcm fuse, I'll try all of that tomorrow. Thanks
 
If you don't have any of these following annoying symptoms, just clear the codes and go again. Go over all of the grounds on the vehicle, make sure they are clean and not green with corrosion.

These computer controlled vehicles will throw a code from time to time. My main 2000 Ford Traveling Van will throw a code once in a while. Checked things over and all good. I just clear the code and go again, good for months at a time. I keep the code reader / code clearing tool in the glove box, quick easy fix.

____________________


What are the symptoms of code P0601 ?
In some cases there may be no symptoms present other than a stored trouble code and an illuminated warning light. However, where drivability issues are present, the symptoms are almost always make and model specific. Typical symptoms could include the following-

  • Harsh, erratic, or unpredictable shifting.
  • Reduced fuel economy.
  • Surging or hesitation upon acceleration.
  • Poor acceleration and loss of power.
  • Frequent engine stalling.
  • Hard starting.
  • Rough or erratic idling.
  • Illuminated warning lights for the ABS, traction control, stability control, air bags, or collision warning systems. Note that not all these warning lights will always be illuminated on all applications.

 
George Jets said:
If you don't have any of these following annoying symptoms, just clear the codes and go again. Go over all of the grounds on the vehicle, make sure they are clean and not green with corrosion.

These computer controlled vehicles will throw a code from time to time. My main 2000 Ford Traveling Van will throw a code once in a while. Checked things over and all good. I just clear the code and go again, good for months at a time. I keep the code reader / code clearing tool in the glove box, quick easy fix.

____________________


What are the symptoms of code P0601 ?
In some cases there may be no symptoms present other than a stored trouble code and an illuminated warning light. However, where drivability issues are present, the symptoms are almost always make and model specific. Typical symptoms could include the following-

  • Harsh, erratic, or unpredictable shifting.
  • Reduced fuel economy.
  • Surging or hesitation upon acceleration.
  • Poor acceleration and loss of power.
  • Frequent engine stalling.
  • Hard starting.
  • Rough or erratic idling.
  • Illuminated warning lights for the ABS, traction control, stability control, air bags, or collision warning systems. Note that not all these warning lights will always be illuminated on all applications.
Click to expand...
None of those symptoms.......yet
 
Here is my code reader that I keep with my vehicle for clearing the codes.

Under 50 bucks.
This one is Actron AutoScanner
#CP9575

20220108_202552.jpg
 
A56 said:
None of those symptoms.......yet
Click to expand...

Good, then it just through a random code.

The stuff is super fussy, remember electricity follows the path of least resistance. You get enough of a load on all the electronic systems at the same time, may have poor grounds, and the humidity in the air is just right.

The easiest path for the electricity out is to just throw a random code.

Reset the codes, make sure all the plug connectors are fully connected, and you are good to go.

Spray down the connectors with WD-40 to displace Any moisture and help keep corrosion from forming.

Just remember All you need is oil and water and you are good to go. Keep it at opperating temp with the coolant and oil for lubrication.

No Problem . .
 
Dielectric grease is common practice to put on the electrical terminals/plugs if you ever separate your connectors while doing service work.

Helps them stayed sealed and keep the elements out. Keeps the soft seals flexible too so you can get them apart someday if you need to.

Good luck, newer computer vehicles can be a pain when things start going wrong.

Some basic simple service can help keep things working proper for a long time.
 
Sweeping dirt under the rug, doesnt make it go away.
I've dealt with the 601 code on a few occasions, I remember fixing one; but the majority required a PCM. The code doesn't just go away, and being what it is, you won't simply erase it; because, it's an internal EPROM error. What your dealer failed to tell you (and many won't), there are a number of aftermarket service providers still making them, and some parts stores, have the ability to send them out for service. I dealt with one such place here, in Wisconsin - Weaver Auto Parts. They have been bought out by some big conglomerate (Auto Value, I think), now; but I think they can still send those out for repair, and the repair was maybe a couple hundred bucks. We used that service a few times, for some older Grand Cherokees, that the PCM's were unavailable for, at the time.
 
George Jets said:
Here is my code reader that I keep with my vehicle for clearing the codes.

Under 50 bucks.
This one is Actron AutoScanner
#CP9575

View attachment 1715850007
Click to expand...
I got the same one......WTF is the 'pd' behind a code? I think its "pending" as in it may clear with a few more miles...? May pony up for a bluetooth interface so I can see the friggin actual oil pressure on my mommyvan.
 
royslead said:
Sweeping dirt under the rug, doesnt make it go away.
I've dealt with the 601 code on a few occasions, I remember fixing one; but the majority required a PCM. The code doesn't just go away, and being what it is, you won't simply erase it; because, it's an internal EPROM error. What your dealer failed to tell you (and many won't), there are a number of aftermarket service providers still making them, and some parts stores, have the ability to send them out for service. I dealt with one such place here, in Wisconsin - Weaver Auto Parts. They have been bought out by some big conglomerate (Auto Value, I think), now; but I think they can still send those out for repair, and the repair was maybe a couple hundred bucks. We used that service a few times, for some older Grand Cherokees, that the PCM's were unavailable for, at the time.
Click to expand...
Take it out and put the PCB in a preheated oven for 10 minutes at 385F. Then turn off the oven and open the door for 10 minutes. Works for quite a few PCB product issues. My Lexus has capacitors on the boards that fail, none so far!
BakingGraphicCardinOven.jpg
 
pishta said:
Take it out and put the PCB in a preheated oven for 10 minutes at 385F. Then turn off the oven and open the door for 10 minutes. Works for quite a few PCB product issues. My Lexus has capacitors on the boards that fail, none so far!
View attachment 1715850063
Click to expand...

That is actually a good idea, for a lot of electronic / board failures - especially those with that are SMC (surface mounted components). I've also used heat guns - but you have to be careful. I fixed a number of "RES" radios out there with those.
 
There's an outfit in Florida that has computers with lifetime warranty and they program to your vehicle. Mine for the Durango was a little over $200 in 2012.
 
I just fixed 2 "defective" Kenwood 6" double DIN nav-stereos using my hot air reflow gun on the graphics daughter board. Use high temp clear flux on these around the EEPROM chips, like flood them (even make a dam around them with clay so the flux doesnt flow away from it. The solder balls are under these chips if there are no 'legs' visible.) . Don't use brown resin based flux, turns brown under heat and looks like pooh.
 
I got a rebuilt ECM for my 96 Dakota from Rockauto. It has been working perfectly.
 
Odds are one of the capacitors failed, or is out of range (failing, but maybe not quite dead). I've repaired a couple. Chrysler uses 220 and 470 uF electrolytic caps that offer just enough energy for the PCM to update the EEPROM on shut-down (or in your case -- not). If you pull it apart, the caps are the round things. Read the part number, look it up, desolder the old ones (just shoot for replacing them all), and solder the new replacement on. Digikey.com and Mouser.com are 2 good places to get replacements.
 
Remember these caps are polarity sensitive, the black edge is the negative, just note the position or look on the PCB for a shaded side of the circle footprint, that is the negative side. If your going to bake a board, remove the caps first! I had one pop on my just this afternoon under my hot air wand. Sounded like a cap gun. They are probably through hole so they are easy to replace and about .20-.50 a piece.
 
royslead said:
Sweeping dirt under the rug, doesnt make it go away.
I've dealt with the 601 code on a few occasions, I remember fixing one; but the majority required a PCM. The code doesn't just go away, and being what it is, you won't simply erase it; because, it's an internal EPROM error. What your dealer failed to tell you (and many won't), there are a number of aftermarket service providers still making them, and some parts stores, have the ability to send them out for service. I dealt with one such place here, in Wisconsin - Weaver Auto Parts. They have been bought out by some big conglomerate (Auto Value, I think), now; but I think they can still send those out for repair, and the repair was maybe a couple hundred bucks. We used that service a few times, for some older Grand Cherokees, that the PCM's were unavailable for, at the time.
Click to expand...
What about re-flashing the new one, security, vin etc ?
 
A56 said:
What about re-flashing the new one, security, vin etc ?
Click to expand...

2002 era, shouldn't have to be flashed to work. The security, if it is equipped with one, will require the dealer to program the code, along with the VIN, unless a good, professional (meaning fairly expensive) scan tool is used (I'm talking about a Snap On, OTC, MAC, Matco, Launch- types the average Joe does not have). Ideally, given that era, someone with a working DRB-III, would be perfect. Here's the thing, if the truck does not have a security system, then after install, the truck will run fine, and will be able to be driven. The only programming that will be needed, is the VIN, PCM mileage, and possibly tire size - though that may be stored in the ABS module on that vehicle (it's hard for me to remember these things, and many other things, for good reason; but I'm not getting into it here). A dealer will be able to run the VIN, and tell whether or not the truck has a security system, another good way is to look at the key. If it has a grey rubber overmold, it most likely is equipped with the SKIM/SKIS system. If the key is black, chances are high, it is not.
 
royslead said:
2002 era, shouldn't have to be flashed to work. The security, if it is equipped with one, will require the dealer to program the code, along with the VIN, unless a good, professional (meaning fairly expensive) scan tool is used (I'm talking about a Snap On, OTC, MAC, Matco, Launch- types the average Joe does not have). Ideally, given that era, someone with a working DRB-III, would be perfect. Here's the thing, if the truck does not have a security system, then after install, the truck will run fine, and will be able to be driven. The only programming that will be needed, is the VIN, PCM mileage, and possibly tire size - though that may be stored in the ABS module on that vehicle (it's hard for me to remember these things, and many other things, for good reason; but I'm not getting into it here). A dealer will be able to run the VIN, and tell whether or not the truck has a security system, another good way is to look at the key. If it has a grey rubber overmold, it most likely is equipped with the SKIM/SKIS system. If the key is black, chances are high, it is not.
Click to expand...
And even many of the higher end tool truck scanners can' t flash modules. That's proprietary software that the dealers and very few scanners have.
 
royslead said:
2002 era, shouldn't have to be flashed to work. The security, if it is equipped with one, will require the dealer to program the code, along with the VIN, unless a good, professional (meaning fairly expensive) scan tool is used (I'm talking about a Snap On, OTC, MAC, Matco, Launch- types the average Joe does not have). Ideally, given that era, someone with a working DRB-III, would be perfect. Here's the thing, if the truck does not have a security system, then after install, the truck will run fine, and will be able to be driven. The only programming that will be needed, is the VIN, PCM mileage, and possibly tire size - though that may be stored in the ABS module on that vehicle (it's hard for me to remember these things, and many other things, for good reason; but I'm not getting into it here). A dealer will be able to run the VIN, and tell whether or not the truck has a security system, another good way is to look at the key. If it has a grey rubber overmold, it most likely is equipped with the SKIM/SKIS system. If the key is black, chances are high, it is not.
Click to expand...
Definitely has security
 
Should be aftermarket support, or maybe a guy can go the megasquirt route. Awful big hassle over a piece of black tape…
I do have a current snap on scanner, will program skim and set pinion factor. If you can chat with the local snap on dealer, he may be able to direct you to a shop capable of flashing an ecm, or hunt down a used one. If anything the used one will keep you running while original one gets repaired.
Pull the old one and google the part number.
 
The concept is the same. Electrolytic capacitors seem to die of old age long before IGBTs, MOSFETS, disc caps, etc. Furthermore, I found Chrysler MCUs used 25 volt caps. I use 35 volt replacements. Just putting it out there for your consideration.
 
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