I am trying to complete the wiring on my 72 and cannot figure out where the positive and negative feed from the main harness hooks up to power the fuse block. Any help is appreciated.
Question on fuse block power on 72 Duster
- Thread starter Jim Ward
- Start date
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Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
Those wires hook to the back of the ammeter.
What will give me power to the fuse block?
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
I don’t remember where it gets it power from. I’d have to look at the wiring diagram to refresh my memory. Someone here will know.
You got a wiring diagram?
I have one but we are having trouble reading it and do not have all of the factory stuff. This car was stripped down and everything in the trunk when I got it....
Good times!
The fuse block has numerous feeds.
Some come from the ignition switch
some come from the main splice
Some come form other sources and are pass through.
Get a color coded wiring diagram classiccarwiring.com is one source about $20.00 11x17" laminated.
Some come from the ignition switch
some come from the main splice
Some come form other sources and are pass through.
Get a color coded wiring diagram classiccarwiring.com is one source about $20.00 11x17" laminated.
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
This is only a guess mind you. Black is power coming in from engine bay to ammeter Red wire eyelet to Ammeter plug to main fuse panel power. Is the red wire (arrows) the same wire ? Been a while but that's what I'm thinging
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
Should be a main connection to power all fuses on the back side of the fuse panel just can't see it it your pic.
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
Some join and insulate the amp gauge wires as they can create future electrical problems by failing and run a voltage gauge instead. Usually thru an acc. circuit so it doesn't draw all the time.Only when key is on.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
OP you need to get yourself two types of diagrams, both from MYMopar. One is the factory service manual, and you may have to settle for Dodge/ vs Plymouth. The second is go to the "wiring" section and get the two-page aftermarket diagram. These are not always complete as to options, etc, but can be easier to follow.
Next, read this article and note the attached diagram from that article
Even if you do not perform this "mod" or do so in a different way, the article gives you a great overview of the problems with the bulkhead connector and ammeter circuit
Catalog
This is a simplified circuit of the main power distro..........those two wire you hold are the AMMETER CIRCUIT WIRES, follow along on the diagram, and BE CAREFUL the ammeter circuit is NOT FUSED except for the fuse link which often allows MELTAGE before it fails
Power comes from the BATTERY to the BIG STUD on the START RELAY (which is also a junction point) through the FUSE LINE and through the BULKHEAD CONNECTOR on the BIG RED ammeter wire. Goes to and through the ammeter (it is a SERIES circuit, not to ground) and out the BLACK. NOTICE the WELDED SPLICE which is wrapped up in the under-dash harness a few inches from the AMMETER. That splice branches off to several points----feeds the HEADLIGHT switch, the feed to the IGNITION SWITCH, the "hot" feed to the FUSE PANEL and then continues on back out through the BULKHEAD CONNECTOR to the alternator
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"Fuse panel feeds" There are basically TWO buss bars in the fuse panel and TWO feeds. One is the "always hot" feed that comes from the above mentioned WELDED SPLICE. The other is the "accessory" feed that comes from the key
There is a third "feed" to just one fuse, the INST fuse which is for the dimmer controlled dash lights. This comes FROM the dimmer control on the headlight switch (which has two feeds) The TAN wire from the HL switch feeds the inst fuse and then off to all dimmer controlled lighting on ORANGE wiring. That fuse is at one end of the box
Next, read this article and note the attached diagram from that article
Even if you do not perform this "mod" or do so in a different way, the article gives you a great overview of the problems with the bulkhead connector and ammeter circuit
Catalog
This is a simplified circuit of the main power distro..........those two wire you hold are the AMMETER CIRCUIT WIRES, follow along on the diagram, and BE CAREFUL the ammeter circuit is NOT FUSED except for the fuse link which often allows MELTAGE before it fails
Power comes from the BATTERY to the BIG STUD on the START RELAY (which is also a junction point) through the FUSE LINE and through the BULKHEAD CONNECTOR on the BIG RED ammeter wire. Goes to and through the ammeter (it is a SERIES circuit, not to ground) and out the BLACK. NOTICE the WELDED SPLICE which is wrapped up in the under-dash harness a few inches from the AMMETER. That splice branches off to several points----feeds the HEADLIGHT switch, the feed to the IGNITION SWITCH, the "hot" feed to the FUSE PANEL and then continues on back out through the BULKHEAD CONNECTOR to the alternator
==========================
"Fuse panel feeds" There are basically TWO buss bars in the fuse panel and TWO feeds. One is the "always hot" feed that comes from the above mentioned WELDED SPLICE. The other is the "accessory" feed that comes from the key
There is a third "feed" to just one fuse, the INST fuse which is for the dimmer controlled dash lights. This comes FROM the dimmer control on the headlight switch (which has two feeds) The TAN wire from the HL switch feeds the inst fuse and then off to all dimmer controlled lighting on ORANGE wiring. That fuse is at one end of the box
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Those two wires go to the back of the amp gauge. You can connect them together if the gauge is bad or if the cluster is out to run the car. The gauge is marked red for the red wire . Without them connected together or to the gauge you will have no power. Everything electrical in the car runs through the amp gauge.
We got it Steve. Thanks to everyone for their help!
Sort of gets the point across but .
The ammeter connects the battery feed to the main splice.
The Alternator powers everything electrical when the engine is running.
The only time alternator sends power through the ammeter is to recharge the battery.
What you need to know
Ammeter connections:
Red wire must connect to the R terminal on the ammeter.
Black wire connects to the other terminal.
Get that backwords and the ammeter reads backwords.
The conductors must be insulated from grounding.
Fuse Box:
One feed is always hot. it comes direct from the main splice.
A second feed is hot when the key switch is in run and accessory.
Each of those feeds connects to either two or three fuses.
One fuse is for the dash lights and is seperate, usually on the end.
This is a '67 but yours is probably similar.
Red w/ stripe 12 ga wire is comes from the key switch.
Black 12 ga wire comes from the main splice.
If the car has options, like A/C, it may have a fuse in the middle connected to one of the feeds with a jumper on the buss.
The ammeter connects the battery feed to the main splice.
The Alternator powers everything electrical when the engine is running.
The only time alternator sends power through the ammeter is to recharge the battery.
What you need to know
Ammeter connections:
Red wire must connect to the R terminal on the ammeter.
Black wire connects to the other terminal.
Get that backwords and the ammeter reads backwords.
The conductors must be insulated from grounding.
Fuse Box:
One feed is always hot. it comes direct from the main splice.
A second feed is hot when the key switch is in run and accessory.
Each of those feeds connects to either two or three fuses.
One fuse is for the dash lights and is seperate, usually on the end.
This is a '67 but yours is probably similar.
Red w/ stripe 12 ga wire is comes from the key switch.
Black 12 ga wire comes from the main splice.
If the car has options, like A/C, it may have a fuse in the middle connected to one of the feeds with a jumper on the buss.
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Whatever you do, don’t let the smoke out of the wires!!
We got it. Took some figuring but like I said the harness for this car was in the trunk as well as most every other part of the car. Starts up with the key and is charging and lights are all operational. Even the high beams work! Love the lights on the 72 with the ST grill.
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
Looks like someone likes Green ! Nice rides
Thanks. It wasn’t supposed to be that way. I was building the 72 for my 14 year old step son and he chose the color. He was too lazy to get off the couch and away from his cell phone so he will have to figure something else out for a ride when he gets his license. The 71 is a V24 factory FJ6 sassy grass with a white stripe and black vinyl top and I had the correct 340 in my shop so a buddy sold that car to me. I’ve learned to like both cars.
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
I had a 70 Duster stroked 340, doug nash 5 speed that I sadly sold .
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