Winter Itch. I need a project. $1000 or so to start. WWYD???

Which project would you do If you were me?

  • New shocks all around. Double adjustable

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    21
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Kent mosby

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Many have followed my build, progress, failures, learning opportunities and fun for all.
My 73 scamp has a 512 ci motor that has much potential but was lacking in performance. I fixed the cam timing, the valve lash error. changed rocker arm ratios, tuned the EFI, installed a HVH super sucker. The car is running well and is ready to go to the drag strip. BUT.....

I have a few months to go before I can do any drag strip time, or even go out very much as there is snow everywhere.

So I am considering a couple projects. Only have time and $ for 1.

1. New torque converter. Mine is a 3000 stall hughes off the shelf. I know that it is not great for racing and many have said that newer high stall torque converters are street friendly. A custom one would perk up the performance. Option 1...

2. I have Competition engineering drag shocks all around with PST 1.03 torsion bars. I just bought some 892,893 torsion bars. I want to upgrade my shocks. Both for performance at the track and for adjustability for street and strip use. Double adjustable shocks are a must so I can have the best of both worlds at the turn of a button or 2. Option 2

3... Less sexy but probably needed. sub frame connectors and torque boxes added. Option3

4. Future may need roll cage and 5-6 point restraints.

Can you change a torque converter without pulling the motor with a 4 post lift?

1973 Plymouth Scamp
RB 512ci, 440 source stroker kit with lightweight crankshaft, forged pistons, 10.83 CR. Trick Flow 240 heads, 440 source aluminum rockers 1.6RR, Trick flow single plane intake. Holley super sniper EFI, hyperspark ignition, coil and distributor. TTI 2 inch headers. Hughes 3000 stall converter. 727 transmission with transgo tf2 valve body mods. B&M Quicksilver shifter. Gear vendors overdrive to 8 3/4 rear end with 3.91 gears, braced in back. SS leaf springs. Competition engineering race shocks. Pypes exhaust 3" into 2.5 inch. RacePro mufflers. Mickey Thompson ET street SS Drag radials 255/60-15 27.3 inch) but going to 275/60-15 28.2 inch diameter. Current cam specs 244/252 @ .050”, 282/290 adv, .516”/.537” lift(1.5:1 rocker), 112 sep, .016”/.018” lash, Solid lifter from Oregon Cams
 
#3 with a start on #4. Unless you like the thought of twisting an entire car beyond its modulus of elasticity. Oh, BTW... NICE BUILD! Love big block A bodies!
:steering:
 
Hey Kent!
If you have a couple runs on your current setup and know what it runs and how it reacts, Id do the subframe connectors.
See how things change.
If there are no runs on it, Id still do the connectors. That way you are doing something that is going to (judging from the posts I have read) be something that is generally across the board recommended. Get to the track early in the season to get some passes then you will be changing 'easy' things. The converter is something I know nothing about as I run manual trans, but I bet a four post with a trans jack would make it a breeze.

PS. when you do go get video.
 
Hey Kent!
If you have a couple runs on your current setup and know what it runs and how it reacts, Id do the subframe connectors.
See how things change.
If there are no runs on it, Id still do the connectors. That way you are doing something that is going to (judging from the posts I have read) be something that is generally across the board recommended. Get to the track early in the season to get some passes then you will be changing 'easy' things. The converter is something I know nothing about as I run manual trans, but I bet a four post with a trans jack would make it a breeze.

PS. when you do go get video.

Will do. Thanks
 
Definitely #3 first. Get the car capable to handle that big motor's torque. You'll need these upgrades anyway so get it done and don't look back!
 
Buy some crypto…. Start with chain.
 
Definitely add sub frame connector before you race it or you'll get some twisting.
You might be surprised by how much better the car reacts just by stiffening the "chassis". There are other ways that you can add stiffening in addition to the subframe connectors, including the core support and inner fender well bracing.
 
I had a 500 inch stroker with a 3000 stall convertor. That thing made so much torque the convertor really didn't matter. If you plan on racing it more than once I would go straight to the roll bar. I was bumping up against the 11:50 limit and mine was a milder combo than yours.

I added a gratuitous launch shot.:lol:

Cayuga Mopar Day 2.jpg
 
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I have ordered 2 pieces of 1.5x3x48 inch 3/16 inch thick steel to make the subframe connectors. $117 shipped. Money will be left over for some more. But will time be there?
 
Frame connectors completed. More work than I hoped for but I have been home a week with Covid so I had time to fiddle around. Welding is so much easier on a bench. I used a whole small spool of flux core wire. Yeah, I am an amateur. They will hold.
D5CAF4A9-6E00-465C-9A4E-662068F09760.jpeg
BF6E37A2-D2C4-4A42-8628-42E2174054AC.jpeg
6F0D2101-B41B-4EB3-A993-205BDAB849EB.jpeg
 
I know you have beefy new torsion bars but if your going to be racing the thing at all the 340 bars would be a big help for weight transfer. You have to remember your 512 probably weighs the same as a stock 360 or a few pounds more.
Im pretty sure that's not on your list of changing.
If you want a better converter, you'll need to have a new cam in mind for that they're usually matched to be compatible.
What kind of rear suspension do you have ?
(Edit) just re read your post good call on the torsion bars.
If you have any money in the budget for caltracs or split monoleafs that or both will be huge in helping lower your e.t.
Also I have a Z-35 isky solid flat tappet you maybe interested in, if you ever get over to central Washington. Shoot me a pm
 
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I know you have beefy new torsion bars but if your going to be racing the thing at all the 340 bars would be a big help for weight transfer. You have to remember your 512 probably weighs the same as a stock 360 or a few pounds more.
Im pretty sure that's not on your list of changing.
If you want a better converter, you'll need to have a new cam in mind for that they're usually matched to be compatible.
What kind of rear suspension do you have ?

I just bought some 340 bars from a member here, cleaned the up and painted them. They are ready to install when the viking double adjustable shocks that I ordered come in.

$118 for Metal for the connectors
$170 for torsion bars
$756 for the shocks
$1044 total for this winter's upgrades. Right on my $1000 or so budget.

Yeah the torque converter is much more work and I want to drive the car and not have it sit. Maybe next winter.
 
I just bought some 340 bars from a member here, cleaned the up and painted them. They are ready to install when the viking double adjustable shocks that I ordered come in.

$118 for Metal for the connectors
$170 for torsion bars
$756 for the shocks
$1044 total for this winter's upgrades. Right on my $1000 or so budget.

Yeah the torque converter is much more work and I want to drive the car and not have it sit. Maybe next winter.
Nice, the connectors look great. Those viking shocks is that all 4 or just 2 ?
 
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