Need some help with diagnosis

-

Bill S

Member
Joined
Sep 20, 2015
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Location
Bay City Michigan
I've got a '73 duster 318 2bbl,I was driving and stopped @ a light.when i accelerated it started backfiring thru carb! I started checking things and am stumped on what happened.I looked inside dist. cap Looked good,ckd.for broken valve springs Ok,took compression ck. 140 lbs ea cyl. Now it still runs but when i rev engine above Idle it backfires thru carb ??I need some ideas on what Next !
 
How many miles on engine ? sounds like a timing chain skipped a tooth on those junk nylon timing gears/put a timing light on it/plug wires-if you have a couple of old wires crossing each other(cross firing) ??..
 
How many miles on it? Has it ever been rebuilt? Stock nylon toothed timing gears are a know problem, and when they break teeth and slip this happens.
 
As stated, timing chain issues or the timing itself is retarded. 65'
 
I looked inside dist. cap Looked good,
Take a real good look. Had a 340 car towed in.Guy tore the front off looking for a timing chain problem. Found all good. Guy lost confidence to put it back together. Long story short found the cap was cracked.My 2 cents.
the timing itself is retarded.
Another was as simple as the distributor hold down was just loose enough for the timing to back off over time.
Again, just a thought.
 
Or flat cam or ignition issues. Low spark power/ voltage
 
Really only two ways that can happen.
Intake valve didn't close before the spark was fired.
 
Thank you all,car has 104000 miles on it,I was thinking timing chain too,didn,t know they had nylon gear.everything else cks good,took valve covers off and rockers are all moving as they should,if lifter collapsed wouldn't i be able to notice it ? it was running great untill it started to backfire !I forgot it now has a miss.
 
How repetitious is the pop? You can tell simply by doing this. Start it up. Drop it in drive with the parking brake fully applied and your foot on the brake pedal firmly. Ease into the gas and bring the rpm up against the converter holding the car still. If you get a pop with every cylinder fire, like pop, pop, pop, pop at even intervals, you have an exhaust valve that's staying closed "somehow". The most common thing is a flat exhaust camshaft lobe, although a bent pushrod, collapsed lifter and broken rocker can all do it as well. What I would do is remove the valve covers and start the engine. Take note of how far each rocker arm opens and closes and look for one that's either not moving or moving much less than the others. A compression test will not spot it, as the exhaust valve is remaining closed and the cylinder is still firing. It is firing exhaust back up through the intake and out the carburetor, instead of out the exhaust port and through the exhaust manifold. This is why it not running well. The exhaust firing back through the intake tract is disrupting everything.
 
IMO
A lo-compression 318,
at or near sealevel,
running a compression test of 140 on all cylinders;
means that there is nothing wrong with the cam-timing.
And probably nothing wrong with cam, nor the valves.
So then, since it began DURING a drive, and
started at zero mph,
My guess is;
that there is a problem with the AFR, which could include water in the bottom of the carb being picked up by the accelerator pump.
But could include coil hi-voltage loss across the terminals.
 
Massive vacuum leak. Make sure all hoses are connected, and carb mounting nuts are snug. I had a backfiring issue due to a cracked carb insulator.
 
If you follow my procedure in post #11 you can confirm or rule it out in 10 seconds.
 
If the idle speed is the same, even if the idle is rougher, check out the ign system. Look for carbon tracking in/on the cap, rotor. Etc.
Could also be the carb [ blocked jets, power system ].
 
-
Back
Top