Pro Flo 4 Timing

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Brian built my motor too. It's been running good for the pat 6 years. I do plan to give it a refresh though before I go EFI. Just to make sure it's still healthy.




@BergmanAutoCraft did you see on the Edelbrock forums how Edelbrock shutdown the threads regarding the distributor phasing? They probably figure that the small block Mopar is more of a niche platform, so they don't want to believe that there could be issues.
I know. I started the thread.
 
Once I straightened out the phasing, the system is flawless. I also shortened the distributor to fit under the wiper motor. I’m at 20 initial/30 total. This is similar to where I wound up when I ran this engine on the dyno before installing. 410,11:3, hydraulic roller

View attachment 1715762117

Do you have to use the Edelbrock distributor? I have an msd pro-billet locked out with the adjustable rotor already. I'm running fitech, but am considering swapping to the proflo. I didn't want to have to modify the dist. or the manifold tho.
 
Depending on your level of expertise, it can be done. For most though, you want to use their distributor. Unfortunately it’s taller than a common MSD replacement distributor. I wanted a sanitary look, so I shortened the housing to gain clearance between the wiper motor and the spark plug boots.
 
Depending on your level of expertise, it can be done. For most though, you want to use their distributor. Unfortunately it’s taller than a common MSD replacement distributor. I wanted a sanitary look, so I shortened the housing to gain clearance between the wiper motor and the spark plug boots.

So it doesn't need modified unless you wanted to?
 
Bringing this thread back!

It's the biggest thread I have found on the Pro FLo 4 system so I thought I would chose this one to post in.

First off, just got my engine back from IMM. Brian dynoed it with his carb and distributor but it does have the Pro Flo intake and rails on it. The car is not ready for the engine so I am just preparing.

For right now I am trying to get a couple of final parts in preparation for the install.

Should I just go ahead and buy the MSD rotor? I have the Edelbrock supplied distributor that came with the Pro Flo 4. MSD Ignition 8421 MSD Distributor Rotors | Summit Racing

Also, the car is stripped and has no wiring. Should I go with an internally ore externally regulated alternator. I am going to be running a fan, EFI w/ in tank pump, and EPAS power steering. No stereo, no other electronics. What amp alternator?

Yes to the MSD adjustable rotor. I am running a Powermaster 95 amp one-wire alternator (8ga.). I think it's a cleaner install. I'm running 2 amps and a stereo system, in-tank fuel pump, electric door locks, headlight relays and Octane Lighting H4 Halogen conversion lights, Vintage Air a/c, power & heated driver seat (Altima) and a power tailgate window in a 68 Coronet Wagon. I run Powermaster one-wire alternators in my other classic cars as well. The engine is a 318/390 stroker with Pro Flo 4.
 
I know some of this issue has been covered in tangent discussions about Edelbrock's Pro Flo 4 and I've read where some people have had a similar issue but I'm going to ask definitively if anyone has had the problem of not being able to set Advance Timing to greater than an 20 degrees with a Pro Flo 4 on a small block? I have a stroker 408, Hughes Hydrualic lifter flatappet 228/232 @ 50 cam, 727 with a 9' convertor and 3000 stall and I'm running Trick Flow 190 heads. No matter where I try to set the timing, if it is above 20 degrees the car stumbles, backfires and vibrates horribly, especially when accelerating hard, with the worst vibrating beginning about 3000. I have adjusted the fuel via Fuel Modifiers to compensate thinking it might be a fuel issue, but that had no effect. I have varied the Idle Timing from 12 to 18 degrees. I've adjusted the vacuum advance from 0 to 10 and if I go above 5 the engine has a similar reaction: it misfires, stumbles and causes the car to vibrate. I'm running Mag 5028 but I've had the same issues with Maps 5029 and 5030. The engine should be making considerably more power than it does and I blame that on the low timing it will accept without the vibrations. Any input would be appreciated, especially if you've had a similar issue and you were able to resolve it.
Ain't technology great (sarcasm indicated)
 
Should I just go ahead and buy the MSD rotor? I have the Edelbrock supplied distributor that came with the Pro Flo 4. MSD Ignition 8421 MSD Distributor Rotors | Summit Racing

Also, the car is stripped and has no wiring. Should I go with an internally ore externally regulated alternator. I am going to be running a fan, EFI w/ in tank pump, and EPAS power steering. No stereo, no other electronics. What amp alternator?

Rotor is a no brainer, cheap easy fix to a problem that will annoy you.

I used a denso alternator from a van, I used a Chrysler alt because I prefer an external regulator. 90A, medium frame, charges full voltage at idle with a 2:1 pulley ratio (5.25 crank, 62mm alt).

I have electric fan, fuel pump, second fan for the trans cooler and I have an electric water pump I'm thinking about running off the second fan control in the ECU.
 
I've got a question myself. Is anyone running a CDI box? I'm looking at an 8hp70 swap and tq management is key to trans life.

The box that allows the trans to work without seeing all the rest of the computers in the car has an output that is pulled low when the transmission wants to see reduced torque.

Other aftermarket ecus have timing retard options for nitrous or general inputs that can trigger whatever you want.

I'm considering a CDI box with a nitrous retard function, not using any of the timing or rpm controls except the nitrous input to pull timing at shifts (100-300ms).

I know that another user in the Edelbrock forums had success limiting rpm using the 2-step function on one, so I'm hopeful, but I was hoping someone here could chime in.
 
I've got a question myself. Is anyone running a CDI box? I'm looking at an 8hp70 swap and tq management is key to trans life.

The box that allows the trans to work without seeing all the rest of the computers in the car has an output that is pulled low when the transmission wants to see reduced torque.

Other aftermarket ecus have timing retard options for nitrous or general inputs that can trigger whatever you want.

I'm considering a CDI box with a nitrous retard function, not using any of the timing or rpm controls except the nitrous input to pull timing at shifts (100-300ms).

I know that another user in the Edelbrock forums had success limiting rpm using the 2-step function on one, so I'm hopeful, but I was hoping someone here could chime in.

What engine management system are you using?
 
What engine management system are you using?

Pro-flo 4. Edelbrock supports CDI boxes for multi spark, but not timing control for the obvious reasons.

I'm not looking to do anything more than a quick timing retard during shifts, I'm wondering if anyone is running a CDI box and using the 2 step, or nitrous retard options and how well it's working.
 
I played on my setup with the adjustable MSD cap last year, my baseline situation was that the car ran well in general, only in some cases at full throttle and high RPM y noticed some instant hesitation and backfire. After playing withe the timing in the app and so on I could not get rid of it so I got the cap and installed it.

Installation was a breeze, adjustment is easy as well. Nobody had a reference on hoy many degrees they tuned their cap to, base on pictures and visually I set it to 5 degrees advanced. The car felt good at low RPM, but then at high RPM the hesitation worsened.

I then retarded it 5 degrees, thinking I may have done the change to the incorrect side. It just took a short drive to realize this did not wor at all. So I backed it up to zero, as it was initially.

By looking at all the parameters in the full digital view I noticed there was always some amount of vacuum, regardles of full throttel driving, etc, it never got to zero, so it was always adding some advance since I had 5 degrees of vacuum advance set. There are some videos and posts where this issue is explained as well, it seems an incorrect reading from the sensor at the application, just like the voltage value.

I went back to play with the parameters in the edelbrock application, at the end I was able to solve this eventual issue with parameters modifications only. I ended up with 11 degrees idle spark (I live at 7200 ft above sea level and my engine has 12.5:1 compression), start advance at 1150 (Hughes cam shakes the car too much at lower RPM :), a total spark advance of 29 degres and full advance at 2000 RPM (I have a 2.73 rear end gear ratio, so you can drive it still even with full advance at low 2k). With this the car pulls hard and there is no hestitation at any RPM, hopefully will test it at the dyno soon.

So, In summary in my case the adjustable cap did not make that much of a difference for the problem I had, it could be adjusted with the application settings.

Take care,
 
Also installed a holley hyperspark EFI box about 2 months ago, I went for this one because it was as simple as it gets and its intended to be used on EFI systems. I did not want nor needed further adjustments or functions, just amplify the spark as it came out of the Proflo 4, single spark, capacitive discharge. You can see (hear) in the videos the difference in spark power.

I placed the spark box in the place where I hade the procomp vacuum canister, after realizing the cam provides enough vacuum I got rid of it, the simpler the better, in my opinion.

stock:


with hyperspark:


WhatsApp Image 2022-01-10 at 1.32.53 PM (1).jpeg


WhatsApp Image 2022-01-10 at 1.32.53 PM.jpeg
 
Also installed a holley hyperspark EFI box about 2 months ago, I went for this one because it was as simple as it gets and its intended to be used on EFI systems. I did not want nor needed further adjustments or functions, just amplify the spark as it came out of the Proflo 4, single spark, capacitive discharge. You can see (hear) in the videos the difference in spark power.

I placed the spark box in the place where I hade the procomp vacuum canister, after realizing the cam provides enough vacuum I got rid of it, the simpler the better, in my opinion.

stock:


with hyperspark:


View attachment 1715850926

View attachment 1715850927


Lots of info packed into your posts. Are you saying you ultimately moved to a Holley Hyperspark distributor WITH the Proflo 4? And just adjust the timing settings in the handheld and leave the distributor alone?
 
I have no idea why you would need any other type of ignition with this efi setup.

If there is some sort of spark issue, I’d trouble shoot the system. I have higher compression too, 11.3 and make 505 hp.

The higher altitudes have less air, but the af ratio is maintained by the efi setup.
 
I have no idea why you would need any other type of ignition with this efi setup.

If there is some sort of spark issue, I’d trouble shoot the system. I have higher compression too, 11.3 and make 505 hp.

The higher altitudes have less air, but the af ratio is maintained by the efi setup.

The only thing I could think of is the hyper spark comes prephased (used in conjunction with the sniper) for ease of timing control. However it is a hall effect style dist. vs the magnetic pickup. I was more curious if the hall effect style would even work with the Proflo. I know the Fitech only accepts a magnetic pickup.
 
Lots of info packed into your posts. Are you saying you ultimately moved to a Holley Hyperspark distributor WITH the Proflo 4? And just adjust the timing settings in the handheld and leave the distributor alone?

I kept the Edelbrock proflo distributor, only added the Hyperspark EFI spark box.

I adjusted the timing in the handheld, and left the MSD adjustable in the zero degrees position
 
I have no idea why you would need any other type of ignition with this efi setup.

If there is some sort of spark issue, I’d trouble shoot the system. I have higher compression too, 11.3 and make 505 hp.

The higher altitudes have less air, but the af ratio is maintained by the efi setup.

Its actually the proflo distributor and the MSD coil, just with the hyperspark EFI spark box in the middle. It was not a necessity, just wanted to add more spark in case this was an issue. Never had dirty sparkplugs due to unburned fuel or anything like that.

I installed the EFI system precisely because I was moving to another city and did not want to experience issues with the carburated setup.

I just wished the handheld had a graphing and recording feature to facilitate fine tuning. I have a tuner on another vehicle and that helps a lot to see what is going on, on the proflo you wither have to record the screen or have someone look at it while you drive.
 
The only thing I could think of is the hyper spark comes prephased (used in conjunction with the sniper) for ease of timing control. However it is a hall effect style dist. vs the magnetic pickup. I was more curious if the hall effect style would even work with the Proflo. I know the Fitech only accepts a magnetic pickup.

I just cut the proflo white wire that goes to the coil and fed it as input into the hyperspark, then the output of the hyperspark to the coil and worked without issues. (obviously all batt, switched 12V and GND connections as well)
 
Just got the rotor in from Summit and the Edelbrock distributor cap won’t fit over the rotor. Damn.


I messaged @BergmanAutoCraft earlier and he told me that the adjustable rotor he tried was too big to fit in his distributor. I think I may have an alternative, I'll know in a day or so. Here's the info I have currently.

This is, the best I can tell, the rotor used in the pro flo 4 distributors. It matches up with the one in my car, exception being the color.

Edelbrock Replacement Rotor #22733 For Max-Fire Distributors, Chevy V8

This is the rotor from an MSD that appears to be an almost identical copy.

MSD 8467 Racing Rotor MSD Billet Distributors

MSD makes an adjustable version of the one above, model 84211

MSD 84211 Rotor Phasing Kit for MSD Distributors

I was able to order the non-adjustable version p/n 8467 for pickup tomorrow at NAPA. It was only $11, so no great loss if it doesn't fit. If it does work in place of the edelbrock one, I plan to order the adjustable version and try it as well.

Pictures of the rotor out of my car below for comparision.

View attachment 1715723516 View attachment 1715723517


Wrong rotor. That's the one that Bergman tried and didn't fit, you need the 84211. Look at my post that I quoted.

Pro Flo 4 Timing
 
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