plymouth1937
Well-Known Member
Il put in the cam tomorow and lock the lifters and check the clearens between the retainer and oilseal one question can i go 1.70" on spring hight to get some more clearence
Valve truble
- Thread starter plymouth1937
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PRH
Well-Known Member
Just pull a spring and measure the valve travel from fully closed until the retainer hits the seal.
That number should be at least .050” more than the lift you plan to run.
That number should be at least .050” more than the lift you plan to run.
plymouth1937
Well-Known Member
plymouth1937
Well-Known Member
PRH
Well-Known Member
Right
plymouth1937
Well-Known Member
PRH
Well-Known Member
I’m going to add this here, which may help someone else out in the future.
“IF” you’re setting up a set of 340/360 heads, and aren’t going to be using aftermarket performance type valves that have a single lock groove....... you’re better off using 4 groove valves for both intake and exhaust, IMO.
Through the years there have been both 2 and 4 groove valves used for intake and exhaust.
I prefer to have them all 4 groove if they can’t be single groove.
This is especially true if you plan on using the multi groove Comp 10deg locks along with their retainers.
There is a noticeable difference in installed height between the 10deg 2 groove valves/locks vs the 10deg 4 groove valves/locks.
If you’re doing anything “performance oriented”, and the heads you’ll be using have exhaust rotators....... just plan on eliminating/replacing them right off the bat.
“IF” you’re setting up a set of 340/360 heads, and aren’t going to be using aftermarket performance type valves that have a single lock groove....... you’re better off using 4 groove valves for both intake and exhaust, IMO.
Through the years there have been both 2 and 4 groove valves used for intake and exhaust.
I prefer to have them all 4 groove if they can’t be single groove.
This is especially true if you plan on using the multi groove Comp 10deg locks along with their retainers.
There is a noticeable difference in installed height between the 10deg 2 groove valves/locks vs the 10deg 4 groove valves/locks.
If you’re doing anything “performance oriented”, and the heads you’ll be using have exhaust rotators....... just plan on eliminating/replacing them right off the bat.
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I don't cut spring pockets down at all. IMO, that's not a handle on anything except trying to find a water jacket. The spring pockets are sometimes some of the thinnest areas of the cylinder head to the water jacket. Enlarging spring pockets for a larger diameter spring is one thing. Cutting spring pockets down into the head.....no way on earth would I do that or ever recommend it. Not in this lifetime.Sounds like you’ve got a handle on the situation
I wouldn’t go nuts with how deep you cut them.
Probably about .050” max.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
Since I like what you are talking about... When I was a teenager building my hot rod slant 6 I remember using one of my spare heads and having Wayne schedler cut the spring pocket down to see how deep it was because we were having issues with the spring installed height. I remember them being around .100-.150 before hitting water.
Needless to say I spent $60 bucks 'at the time' and bought isky +.060 retainers...same ones now are 135.00 I would not cut a pocket deep unless I had to..and then it would not be more than .. .020... see what I did there? Haha nah about .030 tops. Like you..i also believe there are too many good ways to fix that type of issue than cutting pockets deeper. Jmo.
If he cut all the guides for positive seals he could clear another .075+ more lift. It shortens the guide in the process. It's a 2 for 1. It have been better he had a shop that knew start to finish what to do with them. This reminds me of a type of 'bare bones' get it running head job deal.
I have a set of heads like this. ..and have all new non rotator 360 exh valves for them. Gonna buzz them out and flip them for cheap on here at some point. Seems all the iron head guys are east of me...all the cali folks want chinease anymore.
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plymouth1937
Well-Known Member
Ok noted not doing that
plymouth1937
Well-Known Member
I did cut the top of the guide just to be on the safe side im gona run these heads until i get my hands in some alu heads hard to get anywhere gona check for coil binding when im puting it together
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
Damn, you could have bought a pair for what your spending now during the sale. Might have been worth the wait in hindsight, perhaps. Best of luck.
cookietruck
Well-Known Member
what would shipping to sweden have been?
plymouth1937
Well-Known Member
I have not spent a loot of money on these heads like 200 dollar but plenty of time something i have a lot of iv put in an order on new heads in jun 21 and they are not in stock yet
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