Trunk Mount Battery - Wire Routing

Long story so I'll try not to bore you and everybody with too many of the details.
Bought the car as a roller and didn't like what I saw in the wiring. So I stripped EVERY wire out of the car. Designed my own wiring schematic and then got my wiring supplies and a couple fuse panels from Haywire Wiring down in Ohio (Darren the owner is a great guy!). Ran every wire one at a time per my circuit diagram. Held my breath when I got done and plugged in the battery and powered up 1 circuit at a time, measured for no current draws, shorted things to make sure fuses would blow, etc, etc. (Believe it or not, when I got all done, the only issue I had was one of the front turn signal and parking lamp wires were flipped - tough to tell which is which for those 2057 bulbs and simple to swap if wrong.) Twas a happy day!!
The panel in the trunk is a Haywire "drag panel" and has the relays to control whatever you want. It was just a convenient open spot for me to mount it in the trunk and since the fuel pump is right near there, it makes that relay/wiring quite simple. I have another small Haywire fuse panel up under the dash.
Yes, those are Megafuses by the battery. One is for the main power feed that goes through the cut-off switch and then over to that drag panel and then on up front to feed the whole car. The other is on the 4ga alt charge wire circuit coming back to the battery (I use a single wire alternator). The last thing I want to see is my car burn from an elec short!! I have a Ford relay in the trunk to keep the starter cable dead except during crank, etc, etc. I built a lot of safeties into the circuitry - some are redundant. But with the batt in the trunk and the cut-off switch on the positive cable (STUPID NHRA rule!!), and having to make it so the cut-off kills the engine and car, these things are just part of what I did.
Hope this helps...sorry if too many details. Always happy to try and help people like I get help on here too.