Ramcharger vibrates after using 4wd

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gliderider06

gliderider06

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My 87 ramcharger started to have a vibration after I used the 4wd last week in a snowstorm. It's always smooth as silk until this. I thought I may have had a bad tire, but had 4 new tires put on and the problem is still there starts about 45 mph and continues on from there. First time I had to use 4wd in 2 years.
This spring I replaced the ball joints, rear driveshaft u-joints, Rear axles and all the bearings in the rear housing.
The front axle shaft bearings are fairly new, about 30,000 miles on them. I have and use a FSM and I assembled everything following the instructions in the manual.
The only thing I can think of is the front driveshaft with the CV joint in it at the transfer case. Its greased up and feels tight and spins freely.
Any suggestions? Have you Dodge techs ever run into problems like this?
Thanks
 
First are you sure it is actually coming back into 2WD?
The only way to check 4x4 drivetrain is to LOOK and FEEL. You can not check drive shafts "in the vehicle. You must unhook at least one end, and move / articulate the U joint through it's range to feel for dry, crushed, ruined bearings, etc. Don't forget the knuckle U joints as well. And look for junk in the wheels, mud, snow, etc, dirt..................."out of balance"

Usually you can tell by the frequency whether it's a (slower) wheel/ tire/ etc or a driveline, much faster.
 
When you don't use 4x4, sometimes the front axle u-joints (axle) start to stick. Does the steering wheel return to center when you turn?
 
87, central axle disconnect. Im thinking its still engaged. Vibration in seat or steering wheel? Bad axle u-joint im thinking.
 
Does it have automatic front hubs? I had a Bronco do the exact same thing. One side would get stuck.
 
gliderider06 said:
My 87 ramcharger started to have a vibration after I used the 4wd last week in a snowstorm. It's always smooth as silk until this. I thought I may have had a bad tire, but had 4 new tires put on and the problem is still there starts about 45 mph and continues on from there. First time I had to use 4wd in 2 years.
This spring I replaced the ball joints, rear driveshaft u-joints, Rear axles and all the bearings in the rear housing.
The front axle shaft bearings are fairly new, about 30,000 miles on them. I have and use a FSM and I assembled everything following the instructions in the manual.
The only thing I can think of is the front driveshaft with the CV joint in it at the transfer case. Its greased up and feels tight and spins freely.
Any suggestions? Have you Dodge techs ever run into problems like this?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Sounds like a u joint issue. Frt axle joints loose or seized?U said you checked the double cardan u joints on the frt shaft, the ball in the Center should rotate freely without binding.Also the splined slip yoke on the frt shaft should slide easily back and forth. Kind of a long shot, but I have seen cars and trucks that have driven through big storms come in with a buildup of ice and snow on the inside of the wheels,transmission mount or drivetrain causing vibration issues.RJ
 
sr71mopar said:
Does it have automatic front hubs? I had a Bronco do the exact same thing. One side would get stuck.
Click to expand...
Not automatic, disconnects in the axle housing passenger side. Vacuum on, vacuum off. Vacuum switch on t-case.
 
It has the automatic front hubs. I had them apart in the spring. Not saying it is not unlocking, but I feel no shimming in the steering wheel. Just through the floor. Guess that's another area to look at. I did engage the 4wd a few times and it still has same problem.
The front shaft spins freely and I don't feel it binding. I grease the front spline often and I actually pumped grease in everything again today. Still no change. There is no snow buildup anywhere. It is in a heated garage.
 
Check the vacuum lines from the t-case to the front axle. I’ve had those vacuum cans rust out and/or lines crack and have had the fork not move all the way back. I used to put manual lock outs on my CAD axles for piece of mind!
 
Dragging brake shoe, broken transmission mount. Possibilities are endless. Broken centre pin in spring pack and diff moved. Easy to drop driveshafts and check for binding or a bad pinion bearing.

wheel weights knocked off is another.
 
pauly said:
Check the vacuum lines from the t-case to the front axle. I’ve had those vacuum cans rust out and/or lines crack and have had the fork not move all the way back. I used to put manual lock outs on my CAD axles for piece of mind!
Click to expand...
Thanks, I will check that out. I'll look at all the vacuum hoses. Another area for me to look at. My dash light says it's not engaged, but that's not saying it's not still in.
Thanks!
 
Tooljunkie said:
Dragging brake shoe, broken transmission mount. Possibilities are endless. Broken centre pin in spring pack and diff moved. Easy to drop driveshafts and check for binding or a bad pinion bearing.

wheel weights knocked off is another.
Click to expand...
4 new tires yesterday with same problem after. Has all new bearings in rear housing about 2,000 miles ago. I have new trans mounts that I can replace as well.
 
Tooljunkie said:
87, central axle disconnect. Im thinking its still engaged. Vibration in seat or steering wheel? Bad axle u-joint im thinking.
Click to expand...
Vibration is in the seat. Steering wheel still smooth-ish. 4wd lever is making a lot of noise and shakes much more. Axle u-joints are fairly new, and the rear joints are new. I don't feel any binding in the knuckles when I make a sharp turn like I do when the axles are locked in.
 
It sounds like your front axle didn’t disengage. I’ve had several trucks with the cad axle, they are a lot more dependable when you get rid of the stock vacuum actuator and replace it with an aftermarket cable. 4x4 posi lock I think is what I bought. Works much better
 
67Dart273 said:
First are you sure it is actually coming back into 2WD?
The only way to check 4x4 drivetrain is to LOOK and FEEL. You can not check drive shafts "in the vehicle. You must unhook at least one end, and move / articulate the U joint through it's range to feel for dry, crushed, ruined bearings, etc. Don't forget the knuckle U joints as well. And look for junk in the wheels, mud, snow, etc, dirt..................."out of balance"

Usually you can tell by the frequency whether it's a (slower) wheel/ tire/ etc or a driveline, much faster.
Click to expand...
I will rule out tires. Had new set mounted and balanced yesterday. It is speed related. 45mph and up. The faster I go, stronger it gets. Acts the same with both sets of tires.
I'll check the knuckle joints again.
Thanks!
 
CFD244 said:
When you don't use 4x4, sometimes the front axle u-joints (axle) start to stick. Does the steering wheel return to center when you turn?
Click to expand...
It returns easily. I dont notice it sticking.
 
gliderider06 said:
I will rule out tires. Had new set mounted and balanced yesterday. It is speed related. 45mph and up. The faster I go, stronger it gets. Acts the same with both sets of tires.
I'll check the knuckle joints again.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
45 and up is driveshaft. Its easy enough to remove and check. Could have spit out a snap ring.
 
I don’t know **** about the ram chargers. But I do have an 02 ram 2500 gas (2nd gen) with the 241 T case. I had a vibration after I slid it into 4 high. I pulled it back into 2 high but did not fully disengage. Had to adjust the shift rod to correct this. Other thing that happened is one of the u joints in the cardon joint let lose torched the front prop shaft..
 
A friend had a dodge (maybe ford) pickup with 4wheel drive. There is a vacuume switch on the inner fender well. Apparently the hubs get filled with water from condensation and or water infiltration from the vacuum switch. Causing the 4wd to get stuck on or off.


Also my daughter's grand Cherokee has full-time 4wd and in the transfer case there is a fluid (IIRC) coupler and it can break and cause issues.

Just food for thought
 
sr71mopar said:
Does it have automatic front hubs? I had a Bronco do the exact same thing. One side would get stuck.
Click to expand...

jas0162 said:
It sounds like your front axle didn’t disengage. I’ve had several trucks with the cad axle, they are a lot more dependable when you get rid of the stock vacuum actuator and replace it with an aftermarket cable. 4x4 posi lock I think is what I bought. Works much better
Click to expand...
Had this with my 81 w150. Put it in 4wd and one side wouldn't disengage when I went back to 2wd
As soon as I popped the hub off (unscrewed from rotor) the hub "snapped" and I reinstalled it, problem gone. 81 was prior to the CAD system. I wound up getting a set of WARN flip hubs for it and never had that problem again.
Started after a brake job and bearing repack. I figured the on side that had a hard time releasing, the wheel bearings wound up slightly tighter than the other side, with how you have to play with the adjustment til the lock plate can engage the pin in the locknut on those 4wd trucks.
 
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