Thoughts on how to fix a depression in the roof

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Can you use an inspection camera and access at the dome light or sunvisor?
That's a great idea. You can get a borescope attachment for a cell phone cheap.
 
Obviously some precautions with the headliner is required but I found this the other day.
 
Just keep in mind that if there is a crease of any sort, the only proper fix will be a new skin. If its just a depression that is oil canning you can pop it out and provide some support from underneath and it should be fine.
I dont advise using filler at all on a roof except for around the edges. The roof skin expands and contracts with temp and eventually the filler will come loose.
 
Yup! That's the conclusion I came to with my car. Front of roof was pushed in by a previous accident that buckled the roof and support frame. Way to much time to repair so I bought and installed a complete roof from another car. Not nearly as difficult as it seems to do . Just measure carefully and take your time.

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Newfoundland is not a huge province, so I will ask if you know Fitzee who has the welding/body repair YouTube channel.
 
The thing that scares me is the fact that a magnet won't stick to it. Unless there's Bondo an inch thick, it should at least stick a little. Makes me wonder what it was patched with... sheet aluminum and pop rivets?
Gotta get a look at it, even if you just detach one edge of the headliner and shine a flashlight in there to get a glimpse of what's going on- or a borescope through the courtesy light opening, as mentioned.
 
Good news! I have an industrial magnet that is much stronger than the cheap one I originally used. There is indeed metal under the depression. I used the stronger magnet to pull up on the indention and popped it out! It's interesting that the original magnet (one of those that you use to hold photos on your refrigerator ) would not pick up on the metal in the depression but would stick to the metal around it. Anyway, I still might have to reinforce the roof if it oilcans again on me.
 
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As mentioned place plywood under headliner, straighten metal some, slap It full of bondo , and call it Good !!
CHEAP !!
 
It would be really cool if you could fix it easy. I'm not tryin to be negative, just realistic.
Fortunately I was able to fix it easily. I just needed a stronger magnet! While not 100% perfect, the dent is not really noticable anymore

IMG_20220116_130916.jpg
 
I also wanted to add.....thanks to everyone for all the suggestions! This forum is a huge help!! Professor Fate's post got me thinking about magnets. I forgot that I had a couple industrial ones stashed away that I had used for a camera car photo rig years ago.
 
I would still be tempted to pull the headliner and see what's going on under there, because this could just keep recurring- and one of these times there could be some more permanent damage.
If the support structure under the roof skin is still intact, and just not close enough to support the roof skin; I would go in there with some spray foam insulation and give it a couple of shots between the framework and the roof skin. Not a solid bead, but intermittent shots here and there. It expands so it will support the skin, but won't apply enough pressure to distort the metal or make it bulge. Just make sure you cover everything in your interior, because that stuff is like Anti-Seize- it gets on everything.
 
Does anybody think Lexapro could help cure the depression?
 
FWIW, I have a dent in my roof as well and I took it to a paintless dent repair shop. He uses the rods and levers to push out dents. He said he only works on cars 10 years old or less as the metal is too thick to do his work. He said a big hammer and dolly "may" help, but I needed and old fashioned body shop to do the job. I don't have a headliner in right now. Not trying to hijack thread but wanted to clarify that our cars may have metal that it too thick for paintless dent repair.
IMG-2326.jpg
 
FWIW, I have a dent in my roof as well and I took it to a paintless dent repair shop. He uses the rods and levers to push out dents. He said he only works on cars 10 years old or less as the metal is too thick to do his work. He said a big hammer and dolly "may" help, but I needed and old fashioned body shop to do the job. I don't have a headliner in right now. Not trying to hijack thread but wanted to clarify that our cars may have metal that it too thick for paintless dent repair.
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If you scroll up a bit, you'll see that I was able to pull the dent out with a strong magnet.
 
If you scroll up a bit, you'll see that I was able to pull the dent out with a strong magnet.
I read the entire thread. I agree that with yours that it could just be popped out. Creased panels like mine cannot be manipulated with the rods and levers of Paintless dent repair. I would love to know what kinds of magnets you have. I will try anything not to replace my roof.
 
I read the entire thread. I agree that with yours that it could just be popped out. Creased panels like mine cannot be manipulated with the rods and levers of Paintless dent repair. I would love to know what kinds of magnets you have. I will try anything not to replace my roof.
FWIW- Just as an aside to your statement (and others) about creases. When I was the Service Manager at a Harley dealership in NJ we had a young guy who learned the Dentless repair trade while working for Mercedes Benz. Cars coming off ships with dents yada yada. He repaired a few Harley gas tanks with custom paint and he only had access though the fuel fill hole. Slow manipulation of different lengths and shapes of rods and thoughtful correct tapping with his hammer performed miracles that if I hadn't seen it, I wouldn't have believed it.
 
Good news! I have an industrial magnet that is much stronger than the cheap one I originally used. There is indeed metal under the depression. I used the stronger magnet to pull up on the indention and popped it out! It's interesting that the original magnet (one of those that you use to hold photos on your refrigerator ) would not pick up on the metal in the depression but would stick to the metal around it. Anyway, I still might have to reinforce the roof if it oilcans again on me.
Hell yeah.
 
Newfoundland is not a huge province, so I will ask if you know Fitzee who has the welding/body repair YouTube channel.

Absoulety Harrisonm!

Fitzee is very well known in the NFLD Car community. He excels at metalwork and panel shaping and innovative solutions to auto body repairs as you can see on his channel. There is also another here , Bill Norris, who usually works closely with Fitz who is also a metal genius.
 
If you scroll up a bit, you'll see that I was able to pull the dent out with a strong magnet.
That's good news. Hopefully it will continue to maintain it's shape. From what little I know about metal stretching I believe yours is a temporary "fix". Good luck.
 
I read the entire thread. I agree that with yours that it could just be popped out. Creased panels like mine cannot be manipulated with the rods and levers of Paintless dent repair. I would love to know what kinds of magnets you have. I will try anything not to replace my roof.
I bought mine about 12 years ago but they are similar to these:

Warning Flag 80-lb. Cup Magnet with Hardware
 
Man that's awesome. I'm glad it ended up bein a lot easier fix.
Thanks. I was surprised to find that there was some good metal there! But, as mentioned, it might be a temporary fix until I can find out why the metal collapsed in the first place.
 
Thanks. I was surprised to find that there was some good metal there! But, as mentioned, it might be a temporary fix until I can find out why the metal collapsed in the first place.
I wonder if that center support that the dome light mounts to has been pushed down too? It's worth a look with a borescope like we talked about earlier.
 
I wonder if that center support that the dome light mounts to has been pushed down too? It's worth a look with a borescope like we talked about earlier.
I'm sure that the shop that will be doing the transmission swap will have one. I'll have them take a look.
 
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