Ratty valiant shell + 440 ?
.i was thinking about selling everything that i could and keep the complete shell and build something as a ratty , powerfull , test mule car...
As I see it, the key phrase here is "test mule car"- that implies that you may be running multiple different combinations.
With that in mind, this is how I would proceed:
Tie the subframes and cage it.
Mini tub it and move the springs in.
Modify the crossmember to accommodate a 46re should you ever decide to run one.
Add a 4 spd. hump and pedals for the same reason.
Skip the Dana and mount a 8.75 or Ford 9" rear. If it's a test mule, you'll want the ability to change rear gears quickly and easily.
3/8 fuel line and a minimum 5/16 return, all hardline. Keep the soft/flex lines to a minimum.
Minimize the wiring down to the basics; ignition, charging, lights. Install a power control center so you can easily add circuits for elect. fuel pumps, fans, efi, etc.
Move battery into the trunk, add a battery cutoff.
Fuel cell.
Bring your brakes and suspension up to snuff- the particulars of which are going to be more of a personal preference for you.
Keep it manual steering and manual brakes to ease fitment of various engines and drivelines.
Your K frame is a good basis as is- it will accept any LA/Magnum/B/RB you'd care to drop in, you just need the appropriate engine brackets.
Full mechanical instrumentation- and don't forget room for EGT and boost gauges, if you ever go that way. Include wiring for in-cockpit hookups of programmers, dataloggers, etc.
Keep the weight down.
Check NHRA rulebook for particulars regarding cage, belts, fuel and electrical system requirements. Even if you don't do any class racing, some things will be required just to run a given ET at your track. Overbuild, don't underbuild.
I'm sure there's more...
