I'm not going for 800 HP. I'm shooting for 600 HP but I was saying I want strength like it would he making 800 HP. Metaphorically saying I want it to be tough as nails
W2 360 build talk...
- Thread starter gagembassett
- Start date
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After reading through the comments fully I see that you guys already had pointed out my mistake with clarifying on the 800 HP and 600 HP part. My apologies
What et/Mph are you looking to run? Sounds like high tens at over a buck 20
Baseline to start is low to mid 11s because I want to be easy on the a833 to see how it likes it or not. If it doesn't then probably like you said. Around high 10s on a beefier transmission
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That was somewhat the plan, yes. Due to the fact that there is hardly any weight over the back tires I doubted that I could dump the clutch at any considerable rpm and not spin the tires through the 60 foot. Probably a good aggressive walk out
Any idea on the actual weight bias of your truck? I have an old van w/auto (90” wheelbase) with about a 61/39 bias that dead hooks w/drag radials. You’ve got a longer wheelbase and likely an even worse weight bias I’d gather. You’ll have your work cut out for you for sure.
SLOPAR72
Well-Known Member
I am not sure 600 will get you there with 3 pedals. The ol' slide rule may argue with that statement however you have no aerodynamic advantage or weight distribution in your favor.
In regards to getting something below a 1.40 60ft. for this (your ticket will need that stamped on it) plan on spending money for the right clutch. I suspect a good adjustable will set you back 3k now. But IMO that's where you whole idea will start. If you can't get good 60ft's with your motor combo intent I don't see you having the big steam on top to print that number on your ticket. Sounds like fun and a good challenge....
JW
B3422w5
Well-Known Member
It's a rough baseline. Whether I get there or not is a big maybe. But it sounds cool for the time being LOL. I plan in having a lot of traction issues and a lot of playing with the suspension to get a decent hook.
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
If you are going to do this with a clutch, you might a well forget about walking it out. You’ll never do it the same two times in a row. You’ll never get the chassis sorted out. And a small mistake and you’ll kill a bunch of parts. IMO you need:
Either a Clutch Tamer or an adjustable clutch with a sintered iron disc. Forget about anything else.
A two step so you can control engine rpm at the starting line.
Double adjustable shocks on all 4 corners.
Then you have to spend some time learning to tune the stuff. It’s not easy, which is why you don’t see a lot of stick cars out there. But it can be done.
Rig
Right and I had planned on the adjustable shocks all the way around along with lighter duty coils to help rock the truck back for weight transfer. And with the two step I actually planned for the 3 step MSD 7AL3 system to help with starting line rpm launch etc. The clutch part I had not yet gotten to because I have not decided where I would send the transmission to get reworked, either Libertys or Passon for a full build or advice on which direction to go.
In that case, as far as diff is concerned you are in Dana turf for sure.
SLOPAR72
Well-Known Member
Liberty no question. Since you aren't afraid to spend money that one way to show your committed lol... worth it if you have the means....
JW
JW
low deck 470 with Trick Flow 270 heads.
MopaR&D
Nerd Member
Just a point about boosted vs. NA power goals, bottom ends can typically survive higher power levels with boost because you're getting the HP more through increased torque and don't need to spin the engine as fast. RPM has a much larger effect on forces felt by the bottom end components compared to cylinder pressure/torque. Although one case where the opposite can be true is with a big-*** Roots blower that gives constant boost straight from idle.
I have a '72 D200 pickup I'm building a 440 for, its primary purpose will be a tow rig so I have to keep duty cycle and fuel economy in mind and not just max power/torque. But with that said I think I can hit 450 crank HP and 500+ lb-ft and I definitely want to take it to the strip and see what it can do. It's a 3/4-ton long bed standard cab and weighs 4600 lbs with me in it so it's phat but I feel like the heavier frame might help weight distribution a tad and the HD rear leaf spring packs are quite thick, I imagine I shouldn't have much wheel hop or traction issues with decent tires. Also going with 727 trans and factory 12" (low-stall) converter so with a full-floater Dana 60 rear I think it could do hole shots all day long with no breakage or complaints.
Check out @318willrun 's YouTube channel he's building a 1979 Dodge half-ton into a drag truck, iirc he added either traction bars or homemade Cal-tracs and it hooks pretty well at the strip. Probably not as intense as what you're planning but might be helpful in terms of chassis setup and other details.
I have a '72 D200 pickup I'm building a 440 for, its primary purpose will be a tow rig so I have to keep duty cycle and fuel economy in mind and not just max power/torque. But with that said I think I can hit 450 crank HP and 500+ lb-ft and I definitely want to take it to the strip and see what it can do. It's a 3/4-ton long bed standard cab and weighs 4600 lbs with me in it so it's phat but I feel like the heavier frame might help weight distribution a tad and the HD rear leaf spring packs are quite thick, I imagine I shouldn't have much wheel hop or traction issues with decent tires. Also going with 727 trans and factory 12" (low-stall) converter so with a full-floater Dana 60 rear I think it could do hole shots all day long with no breakage or complaints.
Check out @318willrun 's YouTube channel he's building a 1979 Dodge half-ton into a drag truck, iirc he added either traction bars or homemade Cal-tracs and it hooks pretty well at the strip. Probably not as intense as what you're planning but might be helpful in terms of chassis setup and other details.
yessir. I have a close fabrication friend that completely built his 9 second Camaro powered by a 500 CI Cadillac engine. He is planning on building a custom Cal-trac style suspension with springs still over top of axle for more triangulation for better hook. Then heavy duty springs and full 4-way double adjustable shocks on the truck. I very much trust his fabricating
It won't be just any A833. I plan on doing the full 9-yards all the way around the truck including that transmission to Liberty UNLESS they recommend something else. I have a friend that is pushing around 540 HP on one and YES I realize 540 is a HUGE jump away from 600 when pairing it up to the A833 but I'm trying my best and always willing to listen to reason.
19DART66
Well-Known Member
I suggest when you talk to Liberty Gear see if they can set your 833 up with a lower first gear somewhere around a 2.9 to 3.0 ratio or find a 3.09 first gear set 833 to get the weight moving. Call one of the clutch companies that build adjustable sinter iron clutches like Advance Clutches ( they will set a clutch up specifically for your combo), McLeod (soft loc), or Ram, they just came out with a new 10 inch adjustable to fit the Mopar 130 tooth flywheel. McLeod and Ram will just give you an instruction sheet and it's up to you to figure out. Your other option is to talk to weedburner (Grant, very knowledgeable guy on clutch cars) on this site about his Clutch Tamer. My Dart weights in at 3380 lbs and puts the car at a tic under 3600 lbs at race weight and will 60 foot in the low 1.50 shifting second gear about 50 feet out with a 3.04 first gear and 4.10 geared Dana 60 (soon to be 4.30's) and McLeod Soft Loc set up to shift with the clutch. I could 60 foot quicker if I shifted clutchless but I would rather give up the time for the longevity.
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
Good post. Not a thing to disagree with. I am curious of your launch rpm and shift rpm if you don’t mind.
PRH
Well-Known Member
My .02......
If the decision to use W2’s is final...... get the heads done first.
“Done done”...... like, ready to bolt on done.
Then once you know what you really have to work with, the decisions for the rest of the short block can be finalized.
If the decision to use W2’s is final...... get the heads done first.
“Done done”...... like, ready to bolt on done.
Then once you know what you really have to work with, the decisions for the rest of the short block can be finalized.
PRH
Well-Known Member
I’ll add this.......
To see 600hp out of a stock stroke 360 on the dyno here, it would take a fairly serious build and will almost certainly peak at over 7k.
So...... assume that will be the case and build it accordingly.
To see 600hp out of a stock stroke 360 on the dyno here, it would take a fairly serious build and will almost certainly peak at over 7k.
So...... assume that will be the case and build it accordingly.
19DART66
Well-Known Member
RatBastid, My launch rpm is set at 5000 and I shift at 6400. 416 cubes with 10.4 compression, IndyBrock heads, Bullet solid roller, Victor Jr intake, 1 7/8 headers, full 3 inch exhaust, and a Jerico DR4. Just a fun street beater that runs high 10's not real quick but fun to drive.
Hellrats
Just another dumbass
He better hope those heads have good rocker arms and all the gear to go with them.
Sending to Precision Cylinder Heads to my good friend Shane Studley. He has done a ton of W2's per his words. He will be fully porting the heads, setting them up with the gear and porting the intake to match as well. There isn't any located spots in this entire truck build where I will be cheaping out. Maybe the air freshener LOL
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