Tick Tick goes the magnum.

You do not need .080 preload.
That amount is given, mostly so that over the life of the lifter/lobe, you may never experience noisy lifters.
Every 5000 miles, the lifters and lobes may show measureable wear. So then, 50,000 miles from now, your .080 will no longer be .080. Hopefully you will still have "some" preload, and so the engine will still be quiet which is the whole reason for having hydraulics in the first place. But there is nothing magical about .080.
In fact, if your piston to valve clearance is less than .080, and if it should happen that you rev your engine past an rpm where the springs lose control; it could happen that the lifters pump up and drive your valves into the tops of the pistons and bend the stems.
My 367 has adjustable valve gear, and I run about .020 preload. I can rev it to 7500 with no problems. If the lifters were to pump up, .020 is nothing to worry about. If it ever happened, it would only cause a rough idle until the preload was re-established. The penalty for this, is more frequent valve adjustments, perhaps once a year or every other year.
I am not telling you to run .020.
I am telling you that the preload can be anything you want it to be, so long as it less than your piston to valve clearance , and more than zero(lol). Anywhere from .020 to .080 should be just fine.
If the preload gets to be less than zero, as in there is some lash, I can tell you that a small amount of ticking is not a big deal. My engine gains torque with a few ticking valves . I only reset the lash when it starts to tic on more than 4 or so cylinders, or if it develops a clack.

If you are getting noise from valve lash, with .065 preload, something is wrong.
You may have other problems, or the noise is being misinterpreted. It could be that the tips of the stems are not all at the same height, and so in it's worst case, this could require 16 different-length pushrods.
Or the pushrods could be hitting the sides of the tunnels, etc.