Used 4 speed

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Johnschummer

Johnschummer

FABO Gold Member
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First off, first time poster long time reader. Lots of great info on here. I took a gamble on a used a833 while converting my 69 barracuda to 4 speed. Im having issues with it getting stuck in gear. I’ve gotten stuck in just about every gear but first. Once I realized that in my hodge podge group of 4 speed parts I acquired that my 3/4 shift rod was from a 67-71 chevelle by google search part numbers and my 1/2 shift lever was from a Muncie I thought I had the problem nailed. Got all linkage correct through brewers but I still have issues. While popping side cover this evening to pop it out of 4th gear I noticed my shifter interlock bar bent. So I’m gonna replace on that. But I also noticed a lot of forward/ backward play in main shaft. I tried to load a video unsuccessfully but if I was to throw a number on it I would say 3/16 to 1/4 inch. Is this normal or do I have larger snap ring or bearing issues?

5C60B879-CA7E-4CA9-AE65-6C6C269DD740.jpeg
 
That is the 71 (I think it was 71, could have been 70) and later interlocking side cover. It’s basically what a Muncie transmission and several others use. I detest it.

You have to get the levers back flat. Or find someone selling a ball and detent cover and buy that. Much better than the one you have.
 
I'd be putting new bearings into any trans before trying to fix it piecemeal. Lots of play at the input shaft, especially in and out, is a sign of a bad input bearing. Mine was toast and caused bad noises in 4th gear that would go away, or change, in any other gear.

Brewers has all the parts, the cost isn't that bad, and the peace of mind knowing that everything is good and tight inside is priceless.

The hardest two parts for me were removing the reverse idler, and removing the input shaft bearing. The former was simple once I fashioned a tool I saw pictured here on FABO out of some pipe and some all thread. The latter just required renting a puller (I actually used a pair of chisels and was able to remove it rather easily with that). The tail shaft bushing took some care, but wasn't difficult at all (in my case).

Washing the case and tail housing isn't fun, but it's easy. I bake all iron parts to dry them immediately, and follow up with mists of light oil while still hot (I try to ensure all water is evaporated from the surface first too). Any spots that threaten to stain red, I immediately scrub with an oiled brush (nylon brush, usually) before it sets. Fresh rust will usually wipe right off, but give it 20 mins and you're in for more work...
 
Rat Bastid said:
That is the 71 (I think it was 71, could have been 70) and later interlocking side cover. It’s basically what a Muncie transmission and several others use. I detest it.

You have to get the levers back flat. Or find someone selling a ball and detent cover and buy that. Much better than the one you have.
Click to expand...

Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists

This would be the ball detent style.

Or the interlock plates can be found here:
Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists
 
Phreakish said:
I'd be putting new bearings into any trans before trying to fix it piecemeal. Lots of play at the input shaft, especially in and out, is a sign of a bad input bearing. Mine was toast and caused bad noises in 4th gear that would go away, or change, in any other gear.

Brewers has all the parts, the cost isn't that bad, and the peace of mind knowing that everything is good and tight inside is priceless.

The hardest two parts for me were removing the reverse idler, and removing the input shaft bearing. The former was simple once I fashioned a tool I saw pictured here on FABO out of some pipe and some all thread. The latter just required renting a puller (I actually used a pair of chisels and was able to remove it rather easily with that). The tail shaft bushing took some care, but wasn't difficult at all (in my case).

Washing the case and tail housing isn't fun, but it's easy. I bake all iron parts to dry them immediately, and follow up with mists of light oil while still hot (I try to ensure all water is evaporated from the surface first too). Any spots that threaten to stain red, I immediately scrub with an oiled brush (nylon brush, usually) before it sets. Fresh rust will usually wipe right off, but give it 20 mins and you're in for more work...
Click to expand...
Man that is cool! I broke a 4 spd in my 68 383 Coronet. Was the input shaft, in all related areas, the pilot bushing was ruined also... not sure what happened first, I wasn't but 20 or 21 about 30 years ago...thinking the pilot bushing caused it
 
Earlier side cover with detents is better. I don't recommend using that type of cover.
 
There are thrust washers on the cluster gear and a spec to fall within. Time to take it apart, get a new countershaft, bearings, small parts package, and gaskets as a minimum. Jamie Passon has written a good book on our 4 speeds and it is work having.

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Alright, figured I was going to be rebuilding, hoping I wasn’t. Looks like the fun is about to begin.
 
Take it apart down to everything on the bench then make a list and order parts, you may need more than what is included in a standard rebuild kit.
 
Johnschummer said:
But I also noticed a lot of forward/ backward play in main shaft
Click to expand...
You said 'Mainshaft" which goes out the back.
The synchronizer hubs are anchored on that shaft. If the shaft is in the wrong spot, then so are the hubs.
the Synchronizer sleeves are anchored by the shift forks. If the hubs are in the wrong place, then so are the struts and the brass is wrong relative to the brake-cones. Sometimes the struts even pop-out when this happens, and then you have to take the cover off and one-by one, coax them back into their proper locations.
All that to say; that the Mainshaft has to be "immoveable", solidly fixed.
There are only three ways, perhaps a fourth way that the M/S can shuttle back and fourth;
1) the wrong bearing is installed
2) the bearing is beyond worn-out, and
3) the large snapring in the tailhouse is out of place
4) the small retaining snapring is AWOL; but, the rear bearing is a press-fit, so I really wouldn't consider #4.

As to #1, the rear bearing has to fit on the shaft and fill the space between the Low gear and the snap ring. And it also has to fill the bore in the tailhouse; and the bearing has to be located by the world's craziest rear bearing retaining snapring ever designed. Good luck.
My money is on #3
If I'm right, and if you have had to coax struts back into a slider, then it behooves you to make sure the strut springs are properly located. The best way is to determine correctness is to take them apart and look. But; it is possible to align all the parts without taking them apart. It's just a super pita.
If this is not done, the springs can/will rotate out of place, leaving at least one strut unsupported at one end. This will allow the slider to **** the brass and the synchronization will be crazy slow, if it occurs at all. If you force it, chances are good that the brass-ring will break.
 
Last edited:
AJ/FormS said:
You said 'Mainshaft" which goes out the back.
The synchronizer hubs are anchored on that shaft. If the shaft is in the wrong spot, then so are the hubs.
the Synchronizer sleeves are anchored by the shift forks. If the hubs are in the wrong place, then so are the struts and the brass is wrong relative to the brake-cones. Sometimes the struts even pop-out when this happens, and then you have to take the cover off and one-by one, coax them back into their proper locations.
All that to say; that the Mainshaft has to be "immoveable", solidly fixed.
There are only three ways, perhaps a fourth way that the M/S can shuttle back and fourth;
1) the wrong bearing is installed
2) the bearing is beyond worn-out, and
3) the large snapring in the tailhouse is out of place
4) the small retaining snapring is AWOL; but, the rear bearing is a press-fit, so I really wouldn't consider #4.

As to #1, the rear bearing has to fit on the shaft and fill the space between the Low gear and the snap ring. And it also has to fill the bore in the tailhouse; and the bearing has to be located by the world's craziest rear bearing retaining snapring ever designed. Good luck.
My money is on #3
If I'm right, and if you have had to coax struts back into a slider, then it behooves you to make sure the strut springs are properly located. The best way is to determine correctness is to take them apart and look. But; it is possible to align all the parts without taking them apart. It's just a super pita.
If this is not done, the springs can/will rotate out of place, leaving at least one strut unsupported at one end. This will allow the slider to **** the brass and the synchronization will be crazy slow, if it occurs at all. If you force it, chances are good that the brass-ring will break.
Click to expand...


Buddy of mine bought a "new" 833 for a swap in an ebody. Wouldn't shift into second. Third was odd. Fourth was OK, but ground on the downshift bad.

We tore into it and found the rear ring unseated. Had to carefully sand it on some 400 grit, on glass, to bring it to size until it fit. Fixed the issue.

But I think OP meant the input shaft, and not mainshaft. But that's a guess/assumption.
 
Update..main shaft bearing was smoked. She’s rebuilt and back together in car shifting like a dream. My first 4 speed rebuilt, I was little intimidated by it but it was not that difficult.

EFF36FA0-D87A-434C-A156-8CC182813407.jpeg


75FBDD42-E049-4341-891D-65BADF9A9C18.jpeg
 
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