Remote trunk battery disconnect switch lever '71 Duster pics please
OK so this is not the final version but this is pretty much how my remote disconnect lever panned out. Have to say I'm happy with it. Spent a lot of time on this and it took several different processes to get it to where it is - lots of measurements, annealing and bending of aluminum bar stock, accurately drilling and tapping the ends of the bar stock and welding.
Needs some minor tweaks like trimming the length it sticks out past the bumper and getting some better grommets where it comes through the rear panel and ultimately paint. Works though!
The first version with the cut/welded u-bolts was crude and heavy - I knew I could do better. Went to the hardware store and got 1/2" round aluminum bar stock. To make the bends without breaking it, the material had to be annealed with a torch. Once softened, it was put it in a make-shift bending jig consisting of two bolts sticking up in my vise and the bar was bent around them. Came out OK if I do say so myself.
There was a lot of eyeballing on where and how to to mount the disconnect switch bracket. Once it was determined that the "geometry" was OK it was welded to the trunk floor pan. I chose to weld it because there is significant force being applied to the switch mechanism and the sheet metal is flimsy. Bolting or riveting it to the panel would likely have increased the probability of pulling it out at the wrong moment. When the lever is pushed the floor panel still flexes a bit but the switch itself is solid. Incidentally, I burned through two small spots even with lower voltage so have to clean those up. The switch and floor will eventually get painted to prevent rust.
Note the "Ford" starter solenoid mounted to the wheel well flange. This particular unit was/is made for AMC products that used a 727. Unlike the garden-variety Ford type it has a provision on the rear of it for a NSS. That's the little tan wire coming off the back.
To keep the long lever stable/rigid, I welded a small support bracket to the floor right where it comes through the rear panel. As stated already, I need to get some better-fitting grommets for these pass thru-points but you get the idea.
Here's the rear of the car. When actuated, the lever pushes inward ("Push Off") to where the outer edge of the blue tape is. It needs a little length beyond that point but there's plenty to remove and still have it be practical. One more cut and then drill/tap again.
My goal of not having to drill through the virgin rear panel or my nice, original tail light lens was accomplished. Hope this gives someone else some ideas. Thanks for following along.
OK so this is not the final version but this is pretty much how my remote disconnect lever panned out. Have to say I'm happy with it. Spent a lot of time on this and it took several different processes to get it to where it is - lots of measurements, annealing and bending of aluminum bar stock, accurately drilling and tapping the ends of the bar stock and welding.
Needs some minor tweaks like trimming the length it sticks out past the bumper and getting some better grommets where it comes through the rear panel and ultimately paint. Works though!
The first version with the cut/welded u-bolts was crude and heavy - I knew I could do better. Went to the hardware store and got 1/2" round aluminum bar stock. To make the bends without breaking it, the material had to be annealed with a torch. Once softened, it was put it in a make-shift bending jig consisting of two bolts sticking up in my vise and the bar was bent around them. Came out OK if I do say so myself.
There was a lot of eyeballing on where and how to to mount the disconnect switch bracket. Once it was determined that the "geometry" was OK it was welded to the trunk floor pan. I chose to weld it because there is significant force being applied to the switch mechanism and the sheet metal is flimsy. Bolting or riveting it to the panel would likely have increased the probability of pulling it out at the wrong moment. When the lever is pushed the floor panel still flexes a bit but the switch itself is solid. Incidentally, I burned through two small spots even with lower voltage so have to clean those up. The switch and floor will eventually get painted to prevent rust.
Note the "Ford" starter solenoid mounted to the wheel well flange. This particular unit was/is made for AMC products that used a 727. Unlike the garden-variety Ford type it has a provision on the rear of it for a NSS. That's the little tan wire coming off the back.
To keep the long lever stable/rigid, I welded a small support bracket to the floor right where it comes through the rear panel. As stated already, I need to get some better-fitting grommets for these pass thru-points but you get the idea.
Here's the rear of the car. When actuated, the lever pushes inward ("Push Off") to where the outer edge of the blue tape is. It needs a little length beyond that point but there's plenty to remove and still have it be practical. One more cut and then drill/tap again.
My goal of not having to drill through the virgin rear panel or my nice, original tail light lens was accomplished. Hope this gives someone else some ideas. Thanks for following along.