I need some help with an old Dodge truck.
- Thread starter Cope
- Start date
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Good catch, 23”, not 22”
Contact this guy
I got lucky, bought my first one,my sons buddy gave me one and the guy that sold me the first one put another up for sale. Last fall i got a call to clean out a shed, was full of pilothouse parts.
Cope
Fusing with fire
Any one got experience repairing these big wheel cylinders?
My customer can not afford me to make the parts.
I gotta think the 1947 DODGE heavy duty wheel cylinder is a very common use part.
?????
My customer can not afford me to make the parts.
I gotta think the 1947 DODGE heavy duty wheel cylinder is a very common use part.
?????
Should be able to get kits.
Vicsdodgegarage.com
Have you checked Rock Auto? A lot of basic parts for these trucks had industrial uses, so parts are available. Otherwise, check with the folks at Vintage Power Wagon.
Dcmclassics.com
Before you get too deep into the rear diff, consider swapping it out. Axle and pinion seals, as well as brake shoes can add up. Not to mention bearings and forget about gear sets.
A slight change in gearing could turn into a nightmare.
A slight change in gearing could turn into a nightmare.
Cope
Fusing with fire
The rear end is a monster! Good lord. I have never seen such a beast. My plan is to just pull the inspection cover. Clean, inspect and reseal. I will be opening the rear brake system and looking closely at all that.
The owner really wants to keep this truck as original as possible.
The front left shoes are almost new, thickness wise. I have not pulled the passenger side apart yet. Im bouncing around a bit, right now Im doing rust repair on the cab. I need to stay ahead of the customers plans.
As always. What looks to be a clean cab, needs rust repair..... every single time.
"Man this is clean!"
Later.... "****."
The owner really wants to keep this truck as original as possible.
The front left shoes are almost new, thickness wise. I have not pulled the passenger side apart yet. Im bouncing around a bit, right now Im doing rust repair on the cab. I need to stay ahead of the customers plans.
As always. What looks to be a clean cab, needs rust repair..... every single time.
"Man this is clean!"
Later.... "****."
Cope
Fusing with fire
The brake master bolts to the (cast) bell housing.
The bolting machined pad is small and not square as this truck uses a 3 hole master. I was reading about how people modify the bell and use different masters but when I was thinking that way, I was thinking welding.
Now that welding is out..... uh..... I have hammers.????...
This just got a lot more complex and simple at the same time.
I gotta find a master that fits the pad and can be drilled and taped. (In just the right spot, in one shot, perfectly.) Ok. Well, what else is new...
The bolting machined pad is small and not square as this truck uses a 3 hole master. I was reading about how people modify the bell and use different masters but when I was thinking that way, I was thinking welding.
Now that welding is out..... uh..... I have hammers.????...
This just got a lot more complex and simple at the same time.
I gotta find a master that fits the pad and can be drilled and taped. (In just the right spot, in one shot, perfectly.) Ok. Well, what else is new...
I didnt do more than 1 square foot of rust repair on my Fargo.The rear end is a monster! Good lord. I have never seen such a beast. My plan is to just pull the inspection cover. Clean, inspect and reseal. I will be opening the rear brake system and looking closely at all that.
The owner really wants to keep this truck as original as possible.
The front left shoes are almost new, thickness wise. I have not pulled the passenger side apart yet. Im bouncing around a bit, right now Im doing rust repair on the cab. I need to stay ahead of the customers plans.
As always. What looks to be a clean cab, needs rust repair..... every single time.
"Man this is clean!"
Later.... "****."
There was more work on the frame than anything else.
i get him wanting to stay close to original, but things like brakes can open a can of worms. The big trucks are way more money to fix, parts arent as common.
i was $800 into my front end, shoes,seals,hoses, wheel cylinders and king pins. For that money plus a little i could have converted to disc brakes.
Cope
Fusing with fire
The frame is 1/8" C channel. Its solid.
I love this truck. The owner says it checks out as a one tone but to me, I think it is a three tone.
The rear end, the rear spring pack.
Its original use, Heavy log skidder.
This thing is a tank.
I love this truck. The owner says it checks out as a one tone but to me, I think it is a three tone.
The rear end, the rear spring pack.
Its original use, Heavy log skidder.
This thing is a tank.
Cope
Fusing with fire
Hummm.... do I wanna pull down and hit my self in the face?......
Or jump on top and bounce my face off the cab and parking lot? ....
Cope
Fusing with fire
Rust repair.
Pedal rest.
This was unplanned.
It showed up upon inspection of driver side front cab mount.
We already made the parts in a small brake.
They always are rotten.
I dont care how nice it looks or how much you pay.
Its got rot.
Pedal rest.
This was unplanned.
It showed up upon inspection of driver side front cab mount.
We already made the parts in a small brake.
They always are rotten.
I dont care how nice it looks or how much you pay.
Its got rot.
If it is a left hand thread go for it but if it is a right hand thread try the other way
The lug will have an “L” for left, “R” for right hand thread. Driver’s side would have the L lugs, if they are at L and R.
Once again, talk to the guys in the Pilothouse Forum. A number of them have the larger trucks and will help you. The stock diff is going to be low geared and not easy to find parts for.
The most common MC fix is a Cherokee MC. The guys on the Pilothouse Forum have a template for a block that bolts to the bell housing and then the MC connects to it. If I remember, the MC rod will have to be lengthened
You’ve got “split rims…”. Have you ever changed tires on one - not fun, and dangerous as hell. Not many tire shops left that will service them. There are “non split” rims that work.
But as I said, you are working on problems others have solved. Talk to them, tell them what you are doing and you will get help.
Once again, talk to the guys in the Pilothouse Forum. A number of them have the larger trucks and will help you. The stock diff is going to be low geared and not easy to find parts for.
The most common MC fix is a Cherokee MC. The guys on the Pilothouse Forum have a template for a block that bolts to the bell housing and then the MC connects to it. If I remember, the MC rod will have to be lengthened
You’ve got “split rims…”. Have you ever changed tires on one - not fun, and dangerous as hell. Not many tire shops left that will service them. There are “non split” rims that work.
But as I said, you are working on problems others have solved. Talk to them, tell them what you are doing and you will get help.
Cope
Fusing with fire
I will look for the template block.
It is always more cost affective to buy the part VS me make it.
It is always more cost affective to buy the part VS me make it.
Wire brush end of stud, may have an “L” on it. A close look on the end of threads will give you some indication too.
I agree with p14-d24.com
Lots of info there.
Lots of info there.
If you look at the cost of just the rear bake pads, they are high priced, you might find someplace to
re-lign the pads.
Those drivers side wheels would be left hand threads from the factory.
re-lign the pads.
Those drivers side wheels would be left hand threads from the factory.
When I was a kid some of the 6 volt farm tractors were upgrade with 8 volt batteries to spin them over quicker.
Have converted a WD45 Allis Chalmers over to 12 volt using the original 6 volt starter, and for the Generator we used the GM single post Alternator, changed the light bulbs to 12 volt and it was good to go.
Just like pictured here with the GM Alternator, was a common thing to do.
Cranked over real nice with that 12 volt power.
Have converted a WD45 Allis Chalmers over to 12 volt using the original 6 volt starter, and for the Generator we used the GM single post Alternator, changed the light bulbs to 12 volt and it was good to go.
Just like pictured here with the GM Alternator, was a common thing to do.
Cranked over real nice with that 12 volt power.
33IMP
Well-Known Member
Yep, 6volt starters love 12 volts..... just for not very long.
When my dad brought home his (now mine) 33 Imperial, it had an eight volt battery. Wish I could get another one......
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