Firewall Bulkhead connector
- Thread starter vitamindart
- Start date
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This one is good for 13A per pin. The picture isn’t right, there should only be 5 pins.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Amphenol-Industrial/MS3102R14S-5PX?qs=qCsZas39A0H3FX2P0MA/SQ==
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Amphenol-Industrial/MS3102R14S-5PX?qs=qCsZas39A0H3FX2P0MA/SQ==
Why not simply leave the connector eliminated? Just run all the wires through a grommet. Unless you "just" want a connector.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
That chart may be a little bit "slim".
For example, this chart
Automotive Wire Size Calculator – Wire Gauge Chart | MGI SpeedWare
Let's take an example of a 25A fuel pump (rear) with a front mount battery and say, 15ft of wire. Bear in mind the wire is the TOTAL, the return path included. That chart would suggest no 10 for such an example. Length of wire matters, and so does "allowable" voltage drop
my68barracuda
Well-Known Member
Have to agree with what Rusty is saying here. The factory put in connectors, as they were building cars on an assembly line so they installed the wiring harness in sections.
A through hole in the firewall with a grommet is a great solution. Once all the wires are in place you can weather proof the through hole by injecting some RTV around the wire bundle.
If you ever needed to completely remove the harness, perhaps if the engine compartment was being repainted you could remove each wire / pin at the MS3 ECU connector and slide the wire bundle out of the grommet on the engine side of the firewall. When the harness is re installed you would certainly need to get each wire back in it’s original pin position. There is a diagram in the MS3 manual and each wire is numbered and color coded on the MS3 harness.
This solution also eliminates any voltage drop or water intrusion issues associated to a connector.
RTV?!?!? How DARE you suggest such a thing! LOL I personally love the stuff and I'm sure as much as I talk about it, people on here think it's oozing out of everything I own. Truth is, it's great stuff when used in the right way.
My battery is trunk mounted. Cracked back made all the cables for that.
Led Headlights, electric fans on the radiator, heater blower motor and the in-tank fuel pump will be using relays.
I am using an Edelbrock pro flow 4 and I plan on isolating that system to a clean power source.
The dash is is led from intellitronix.
I am rewiring the entire car including rerouting / modernizing with modern fuses and relays.
That being my plan, I want to retain the ability to quickly disconnect the harnesses at the bulkhead in case I add or need to repair an individual circuit.
And I want it to look good too.
All that being said. I am not committed to any brand, as long as they use Deutsch connectors.
Led Headlights, electric fans on the radiator, heater blower motor and the in-tank fuel pump will be using relays.
I am using an Edelbrock pro flow 4 and I plan on isolating that system to a clean power source.
The dash is is led from intellitronix.
I am rewiring the entire car including rerouting / modernizing with modern fuses and relays.
That being my plan, I want to retain the ability to quickly disconnect the harnesses at the bulkhead in case I add or need to repair an individual circuit.
And I want it to look good too.
All that being said. I am not committed to any brand, as long as they use Deutsch connectors.
I'd like to see some pitchers if you got some. lol
Will do…
Have you figured out the total count of wires as that will drive the connector you use?
Would be interested in seeing pictures too!
DartGTDan
'71 Dart GT Fan
Make sure to leave enough harness length for a drip loop.
Left image has no drip loop, likewise the right image does have a drip loop
Left image has no drip loop, likewise the right image does have a drip loop
We are using an American Autowire - Replacement Harness..
They put the fuse block on the rear of the bulkhead connector. We did not realize this until we unpacked the harness and laid it out...
So the biggest part of the plan is no longer a plan....
We will see what we decide on the EFI harness passthrough.
They put the fuse block on the rear of the bulkhead connector. We did not realize this until we unpacked the harness and laid it out...
So the biggest part of the plan is no longer a plan....
We will see what we decide on the EFI harness passthrough.
Cal Tonsley
Well-Known Member
I’m using an AAW Classic Upgrade harness in my Australian 70 Valiant Hardtop (AKA Dart) as well!
The factory didn’t use a bulkhead connector here in Aus, they hardly even had a fuse (just 2) LOL!
I’ve hooked up my fuse block on a custom bracket I made out of 3mm (1/8”) plate which is mounted to the steering column support bracket. Apologies for the poor photo but you should be able to just make out the fuse block above the shifter. I’ve also included a cutting profile image of the mounting bracket below, I’d be happy to email you a .dxf CAD file of this if you think you may like to get one laser cut. Battery is in the trunk / boot as well and interestingly I’m also going to use a ProFlo4. I’ve mounted the ECU along with starter relay etc on another custom plate which mounts to the underside of the dash and then passed the ECU / Injector connectors back through the firewall where the heater tubes pass through. I’ve managed to hide most wiring under guards etc and have had to do a fair bit of custom wiring to “Australianise” it all and make it work with my custom dash below. Probably have another week or two’s work to finish off the wiring and get the dash back in.
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Can you post a picture from the other side of the plate that you made?
Nice work bud!
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
I agree w/ Rusty. The factory only used a bulkhead connector for easier factory assembly. By the 1980's, I think most cars went to running wires straight thru a rubber seal. That was because they had many more wires then and more reliable. My 1985 M-B 300D is more unique, where the fuse box is installed in the firewall so also serves as a feed-thru. I don't know if other Euro cars did that. But, a mechanical diesel so not many engine bay wires and most controls are vacuum-operated.
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