ujoint smoothness Q

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Rapid Robert

Rapid Robert

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63 dart dirt track stock car 360/904/7&1/4 (welded spiders). I had the shaft cut/balanced & the front yoke was smooth in one direction/not so smooth in the other. the rear was not smooth. I took it back & they worked on it but it still seems way too tight compared to the smooth movement I have felt in others in the past. do I need to get another shaft & start over? thank you for your time. RR
 
Do you mean "smooth" or hard to turn in a counter clockwise rotation? If hard to turn, you're turning the planetary gears against the sprag in the trans. Perfectly normal.
 
Oh my bad, I am talking about the ujoints in the driveshaft. I'd hate to get out there in April & have a big problem on day 1
 
With the shaft on the bench, the cross-pins should almost flop around and your installer should know that.
I have installed hundreds of U-joints in my 68 years.
When tightness occurs, and it does, something is wrong.
Normally the cups are just pressed in too far and the deals needs to be relaxed, by just whacking them back out.
But occasionally it happens that one or more needle rollers fell out of place, and dropped into the cups. This usually makes it very very difficult to press the cups in far enough to install the retainer clips. This should raise a red-flag to the installer, that SOMETHING IS WRONG. But you know; it's hard to get good help these days.............
So then, if you cannot free them up by driving the cups away from the cross intersection, then I would take it apart and look for out of place needles or even, debris.
If nothing is found you will have to check the cup receiving-lugs to make sure they are still parallel; perhaps somebody got over-zealous with the press.
 
AJ is correct. Upon installing joint, if they are "tight", they need to be "relieved", or extra side pressure loosened. Very simple- part of the job.
 
CudaFactHackJob said:
When a noob installs a u-joint too tight; it's off center and vibrates; then it eats the joint.
Click to expand...
This^^^

What happens is, inexperienced installers leave the u-joint "where it is" after they install it. You're supposed to tap the caps out against the circlips when finished to relieve stress and loosen the joints up.
 
I took it back to em yesterday & they (including the boss) were adamant that it was OK & this is a driveline specialty shop. I will see if I can tap the caps a bit outward or even dissassemble it all the way & tap the ears outward a bit. yes I want it to flop loose & yes these were either spicer or neapco joints. thanks guys. RR
 
I have had luck after install by using a hand sledge and a couple of whacks on both sides of the yoke to free the joints up for smooth movement.
 
I gave it a few whacks but I had to use my small hammer cuz I couldn't find my brass drift but I will & get on it again with a bigger hammer
 
I like the vid except for the install, especially the hammer method. Push first cup 1/2 way through yoke eye. This gives you enough to slide cup over trunnion without tipping an needle.
Sometimes they are tight,no getting away from it. Rough is a crushed needle.
And if you ever buy a u-joint in a box that was obviously opened, inspect it before leaving store. 1, missing needles,2 matching cups,3correct u-joint and 4 contamination.
I just gave you four reasons how i know. Been there.
 
Relpacing those joints are a breeze, once you start doing it you'll never bring it in again. A good hit with a hammer on the yoke can help with a mildly stiff joint.
Good luck!
 
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