5w 20 motor oil

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Did you read the owner’s manual?
Mine is 2008 5.7L Hemi. This one calls for traditional oil, but the owner’s manual specifically states synthetic can be used.
Mine had 13,000 miles when I bought it used and since owners manual says it’s acceptable I have been running Mobil 1 or Valvoline full synthetic ever since I got it. Now it has 260,000 miles on it, and try to keep the change interval to every 4,000 miles or less. An engine can never be too clean, and these Hemis do not have adequate pcv systems.

Biggest thing for warranties is you must save receipts showing the oil filter and oil suggested for the vehicle, and the purchases must add up to the mileage, so going 10,000 on a synthetic oil chance won’t add up. A friend actually takes pictures of the odometer and of the oil being poured in to go along with the receipts.

I have a 1.4 Turbo Cruze and its been on either Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 with 5k intervals and the engine looks like it was built yesterday. The turbo is hard on oil. The one time it was fixed under warranty and it got the GM semi-syn, you it was sheared down and had more of the consistency of 5w-20.

I know a family that has Honda Accords and their first one had 435k on Mobil 1 at 7000 mi and the second is at 340k and going with the same interval. Eventually the body just gets too bad in SE MI to be worth keeping.

Literally no need to buy Amsoil, the stuff you can buy on the shelf is totally fine.
 
Filters I wont skimp on . Speedtalk just had a great thread on oil filter testing .

Oil Filter Filtration and Flow Testing per ISO 4548-12 - Don Terrill’s Speed-Talk

That's fine, but it's really not that important for what I'm using the cars for..or most people for that matter...in fact.. if you go that far out of your way I'd have to call you anal. The end of the day the average joe can't figure or measure the diff in miles or power at the drag strip..in fact oil weight will show you a measurable increase before the filter could.
That said...
I've use Bosch oil filters btw which have good flow and filtration as you saw in that test...and only the commuters get stp stuff
 
For my production stuff/commuter cars I use cheap oil and simply check and change it once it gets brown/grey and smells like carbon. Cheap filters too.
Stp brand oil n filters.
Just over 300k on one and 326k on the other.

I use Schaefers oil in my old mopars and change every 7000ish.
How does Schaeffer oil compare to Brad Penn oil?
 
How does Schaeffer oil compare to Brad Penn oil?
I think at that level they're all great and you could not be blaming any problem on the oil that's for damn sure. If you would like to see the data...Schaeffers oil makes all tech/data sheet available on their site. They are top notch.

To me it's like I like Levi's, I like Vans shoes... it doesn't mean Converse and dickies suck...its just at the level of quality and brand I've come to prefer.
 
My 2014 Ram 5.7 says to change at 10,000 mi so I have dealer change it between 9-10,000. They are reasonable at $34.95 and one time I got 5 changes for $114. If anything happens they have all the records. I have 123,000 and have never had to add any oil and it looks good on stick. I have extended warranty until 183,000 mi. I would like one more new one before they quit putting the hemi in the Ram, Joe
 
My 5.9 Dakota has had that Valvoline syn blend since I got it at 30K miles.

Changed between 5-7K miles.

Now has 168K.
 
I have a 1.4 Turbo Cruze and its been on either Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 with 5k intervals and the engine looks like it was built yesterday. The turbo is hard on oil. The one time it was fixed under warranty and it got the GM semi-syn, you it was sheared down and had more of the consistency of 5w-20.

I know a family that has Honda Accords and their first one had 435k on Mobil 1 at 7000 mi and the second is at 340k and going with the same interval. Eventually the body just gets too bad in SE MI to be worth keeping.

Literally no need to buy Amsoil, the stuff you can buy on the shelf is totally fine.
I am not far from you and you described my truck. Mine is a 2008 Ram 1500, and this has been a very good truck for me. I am very tall so I am more comfortable driving full size trucks. The body on this one really has some rust taking over. It has 268,000 miles and is still covered under the Mopar Maxcare warranty, but the body will fall apart soon enough.
 
My 2014 Ram 5.7 says to change at 10,000 mi so I have dealer change it between 9-10,000. They are reasonable at $34.95 and one time I got 5 changes for $114. If anything happens they have all the records. I have 123,000 and have never had to add any oil and it looks good on stick. I have extended warranty until 183,000 mi. I would like one more new one before they quit putting the hemi in the Ram, Joe
I don’t know what year they switched to synthetic in the trucks, but yours probably takes synthetic. The manufacturer does not really care about how long you go before changing oil. They make longer intervals so that sales departments can show lower cost of ownership. Yes the engines are cleaner these days and synthetic seams to last longer in these engines, but beware of long oil change intervals on the Hemis. Lots of lifter failures on the 2009 and newer models with no real explanation. Lots of theories. Seams less common on shorter oil change intervals and more common on longer, factory recommend oil change intervals.
 
Just FYI on intervals-

My 1.4t just triggered the first "oil change required" info screen.

8,875 miles since the last one.

I bet I can stretch it almost to 10K before that info screen comes on and stays.
 
Oil changes are everything for longevity in an engine, my wife had until she wrecked it a 2007 Ford Focus with 430,000 miles oil was changed every 5,000 miles with conventional oil. This car was driven at least 140 miles 5 days a week as a commuter car plus whatever she put on it on the weekend
 
Oil changes are everything for longevity in an engine, my wife had until she wrecked it a 2007 Ford Focus with 430,000 miles oil was changed every 5,000 miles with conventional oil. This car was driven at least 140 miles 5 days a week as a commuter car plus whatever she put on it on the weekend
Perfect example of a properly maintained vehicle. It is pretty cool to see them still running with so many miles on them, especially since the body was probably still pretty solid on that one, being away from the rust belt.
 
The sad part is our classic mopars could never have achieved this kind milage because of leaded fuel, non-hardened valve seats high tension rings, and improvements in oils.
 
I think at that level they're all great and you could not be blaming any problem on the oil that's for damn sure. If you would like to see the data...Schaeffers oil makes all tech/data sheet available on their site. They are top notch.

To me it's like I like Levi's, I like Vans shoes... it doesn't mean Converse and dickies suck...its just at the level of quality and brand I've come to prefer.
Reason I asked is I started off using VR-1 then switched to Brad Penn. So recently came across a good deal on Schaefer oil by the case. I bought it but haven't used it yet. I'm glad I did.
 
The most important thing is to use 5w20 if you have a 5.7 VVT or MDS. These engine must have 5w20 to operate the valvetrains properly. Synthetics are fine as long as they meet Mopar's API recommendations and all Major companies meet or exceed those requirements.
 
The most important thing is to use 5w20 if you have a 5.7 VVT or MDS. These engine must have 5w20 to operate the valvetrains properly. Synthetics are fine as long as they meet Mopar's API recommendations and all Major companies meet or exceed those requirements.
If you have a 5.7 still under warranty, it's wise to use an oil that is licensed with Mopar's MS-6395 spec. Should you have a warranty claim on the engine using a non-licensed oil, they could refuse to honor the warranty. You might have to sue them to get them to pay. It's cheaper and easier to just use a licensed oil. An oil may claim to meet or exceed a Mopar MS spec, and it may very well do so, but that doesn't mean licensed.
 
Did you read the owner’s manual?
Mine is 2008 5.7L Hemi. This one calls for traditional oil, but the owner’s manual specifically states synthetic can be used.
Mine had 13,000 miles when I bought it used and since owners manual says it’s acceptable I have been running Mobil 1 or Valvoline full synthetic ever since I got it. Now it has 260,000 miles on it, and try to keep the change interval to every 4,000 miles or less. An engine can never be too clean, and these Hemis do not have adequate pcv systems.

Biggest thing for warranties is you must save receipts showing the oil filter and oil suggested for the vehicle, and the purchases must add up to the mileage, so going 10,000 on a synthetic oil chance won’t add up. A friend actually takes pictures of the odometer and of the oil being poured in to go along with the receipts.
 
My 2013 Ram calls for 5-20 Conventional motor oil
Can't seem to find it anymore [except from mopar]
Truck has 43,000 miles on it. Can't Decide what to
use. any good suggestions. Thanks.
Use 5w20 like the factory states.
I have no trouble finding it. The weight is specified because the Hemi engines with MDS rely on that thin of oil for the proper function of the MDS.
 
The sad part is our classic mopars could never have achieved this kind milage because of leaded fuel, non-hardened valve seats high tension rings, and improvements in oils.

They kind of did with the Magnum engines that's why you find them in the junkyard with 200k miles and still crosshatch on the bores. Sequential port EFI, better oils, better machining, tighter tolerances, lighter weight components, but it's still just a modified LA small block at the end of the day. So they last forever if you take care of them; similar case for other 1990s "modernized" pushrod engines like the Ford 302/351 and Chevy 350. The architecture was designed for much harsher operating conditions than engines have to deal with today.

Those Japanese engines run forever because they have exceptionally tight tolerances, consistently high-quality materials and super precise machining and metallurgy. And Toyotas make no power from the factory so they last extra long :rofl:
 
I have a 1.4 Turbo Cruze and its been on either Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 with 5k intervals and the engine looks like it was built yesterday. The turbo is hard on oil. The one time it was fixed under warranty and it got the GM semi-syn, you it was sheared down and had more of the consistency of 5w-20.

I know a family that has Honda Accords and their first one had 435k on Mobil 1 at 7000 mi and the second is at 340k and going with the same interval. Eventually the body just gets too bad in SE MI to be worth keeping.

Literally no need to buy Amsoil, the stuff you can buy on the shelf is totally fine.
 
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