73+ K-frame build (pics)
The bolts you have are not as good as the factory. Just think about it after looking at the pictures. How much diameter and thread surface are you giving up.
And the factory LCA bushings ? I would like to see you pull the pin out by hand as you can with the poly style with lube on it as recommended . The one you pictured above was pressed out.
Don't say I didn't warn you.
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Oh I agree, those Moog bolts suck. Pretty much everything Moog makes now isn't up to par. Bolts, bushings, ball joints, they're all piss poor.
I do find it interesting though, looking at the pictures of those completely fubar'd threads yet again, that the outer threads are rounded off on the side facing out. Kinda like they were cross threaded on installation and
then stripped on top of that. Because they'd be rounded on the side facing in if it was from unscrewing the nut with a chunk of thread jammed in it (like it is on the inner part where you can see the chunks of busted thread).
And the factory LCA bushings ? I would like to see you pull the pin out by hand as you can with the poly style with lube on it as recommended . The one you pictured above was pressed out.
Yes, it was pressed out. Very easily I might add. Since you're changing the topic I assume you've come to realize the rubber isn't actually molded/bonded in place but don't want to admit that? Time to move the goal posts again.
You know what I would like to see? I'd like to see you pry the LCA back off the pin with a properly installed Delrin bushing while the properly adjusted strut rod is
still in place. Because it's 100% irrelevant what happens to the LCA when everything is unhooked. Do you drive your car without strut rods? You don't. Which is why your little pry bar trick is just a parlor gag. You can do the same thing with a rubber bushing, it just peels it apart. A press is easier, but a pry bar works if you unhook the rest of the suspension like you suggest. The rubber isn't what keeps the LCA in place.
@72bluNblu ,
What do I need to be putting LocTite or anti-seize on. Oh, I'm using Hotchkis Super Grease, fwiw.
I use the Hotchkis Super Grease too, handy it comes in a full tube. I have a dedicated grease gun for it.
I don't use LocTite on any of the suspension parts. The factory torque specs should be more than enough to keep anything from coming loose, and the torque specs on the aftermarket LCA pins is higher than factory. If anything does come loose when properly torqued you likely have another issue that's causing it (see above, for example). I do use a dab of loctite on the caliper bracket adaptor bolts, it's in the instructions for the brake kit. Or it was for my Cobra's anyway.
I use anti-seize on the torsion bar adjusting bolts. Just a bit to keep them from rusting, makes adjustments a ton easier and doesn't collect dirt as badly as grease does. I've never had an issue with the adjustment changing. You can also use a bit of anti-seize on the SPC adjusters, they'll spin a little smoother and the jam nuts won't let anything move. But it looks like those are coated now too so that would be completely optional. Strut rod threads would be another spot since you have the QA1's with the aluminum strut, any dissimilar metals should get some anti-seize to make your life easier.
