73+ K-frame build (pics)

Oldmanmopar said
Hitting the brakes in reverse relieves pressure on the torsion bar from lift. The stronger the bar the less distance it takes to unload. The reason weak bars are used for drag racing is they provide lift throughout their travel. Heavy bars lose lift and get looser at the the top.

When going forward and hitting the brakes the bushings are pushed forward. The strut rod is a pivot point between the spindle and the lower bushing.

Pull forward on the spindle it pulls out on the bushing. Pull back on the spindle it pushes the bushing forward. Add a swivel to the strut rod and you free up the motion and it gets worse.
Like I said take off the stabilizer link and pry the lower control arm back at the bushing. You'll be able to pry it off the pin. The only thing holding the arm forward at the bushing is the torsion bar and whats holding that forward??? The clip and without spacers and even then it travels 1/2 -3/4. Real stable set up. LOL . We tried with no luck

I like the adjustable strut rods just not used with lubed up poly bushings in the lower. Use the rubber molded in a shell.
We made are own struts before I bought a coil over suspension. We copied them off of "Ray Bartons Racings" Hemi Dart

My son was designing lower control arm with bearings for use with coil overs. We decided to buy a coil over suspension. Why re event the wheel. We went with AJE because of the light weight. For dual purpose or a heavy car I would recommend HDK. Stronger.

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Like I stated above the lighter the t-bar the more pressure it keeps on full travel. That is why they are used for drag racing. The heavier the bar the less travel it has. Some of you don't have common sense . 72blunblu You take the cake for stupidity Like the bolt I picture was cross threaded. You'll say anything and quote everyone to look like GOD. Why not just give your opinion without your continuous quote. Many articles on the web make you look like a dick.

This is just one of many

Quote this. ====>- - -

Torsion bars used for drag racing should be of as small a diameter as possible for more weight transfer (pitch rotation), yet strong enough to support the front of the car under all conditions. To plant the rear tires as hard as possible when launching a car with a factory-style suspension, it is necessary to get as much weight transfer (pitch rotation) as possible and to do so as quickly as possible. You don’t want the rear tires to start moving any distance before the weight starts to transfer. Smaller-diameter bars are lighter in strength and weight, and therefore respond quicker than the heavier bars they replace.

For example, 100 pounds taken off a smaller-diameter torsion bar raises the front of the car farther and quicker than 100 pounds taken off a larger-diameter torsion bar. Care must be used when using smaller-diameter torsion bars on the street. Smaller-diameter torsion bars may not be sufficient to control the car in a street-driving situation, even if they achieve what is needed for the drag strip. Traveling down a rough, uneven road surface using smaller-diameter torsion bars can get your car bouncing up and down uncontrollably, like a boat going over rough waves. Be honest with yourself regarding your vehicle’s true intended purpose, and choose the best-possible bar for your application.

Too much weight transfer (pitch rotation) makes the car slower in 60-foot clockings. During pitch rotation, the front bumper of the car rotates in a circle using the rear tires as the axis. Therefore, as the front bumper raises, it is actually moving in an upward and rearward direction. The more pitch rotation and rearward movement of the front of the car, the more torque the engine needs to move the car forward the same distance in the same amount of time.