73+ K-frame build (pics)
- Thread starter go-fish
- Start date
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Ironracer
Gearhead
No I just have the stock ones. Not really a hard core corner carver.. Although, it appears the passenger side could.use one. I've got em adjusted out.... maybe something is wrong. Or could be I'm on on incline w/ the Tire turned a Lil
The bolts you have are not as good as the factory. Just think about it after looking at the pictures. How much diameter and thread surface are you giving up.
I am sure God! AKA 72blunblu and you know better.
And the factory LCA bushings ? I would like to see you pull the pin out by hand as you can with the poly style with lube on it as recommended . The one you pictured above was pressed out.
Don't say I didn't warn you.
I am sure God! AKA 72blunblu and you know better.
And the factory LCA bushings ? I would like to see you pull the pin out by hand as you can with the poly style with lube on it as recommended . The one you pictured above was pressed out.
Don't say I didn't warn you.
@72bluNblu ,
What do I need to be putting LocTite or anti-seize on. Oh, I'm using Hotchkis Super Grease, fwiw.
What do I need to be putting LocTite or anti-seize on. Oh, I'm using Hotchkis Super Grease, fwiw.
Oh I agree, those Moog bolts suck. Pretty much everything Moog makes now isn't up to par. Bolts, bushings, ball joints, they're all piss poor.
I do find it interesting though, looking at the pictures of those completely fubar'd threads yet again, that the outer threads are rounded off on the side facing out. Kinda like they were cross threaded on installation and then stripped on top of that. Because they'd be rounded on the side facing in if it was from unscrewing the nut with a chunk of thread jammed in it (like it is on the inner part where you can see the chunks of busted thread).
Yes, it was pressed out. Very easily I might add. Since you're changing the topic I assume you've come to realize the rubber isn't actually molded/bonded in place but don't want to admit that? Time to move the goal posts again.
You know what I would like to see? I'd like to see you pry the LCA back off the pin with a properly installed Delrin bushing while the properly adjusted strut rod is still in place. Because it's 100% irrelevant what happens to the LCA when everything is unhooked. Do you drive your car without strut rods? You don't. Which is why your little pry bar trick is just a parlor gag. You can do the same thing with a rubber bushing, it just peels it apart. A press is easier, but a pry bar works if you unhook the rest of the suspension like you suggest. The rubber isn't what keeps the LCA in place.
I use the Hotchkis Super Grease too, handy it comes in a full tube. I have a dedicated grease gun for it.
I don't use LocTite on any of the suspension parts. The factory torque specs should be more than enough to keep anything from coming loose, and the torque specs on the aftermarket LCA pins is higher than factory. If anything does come loose when properly torqued you likely have another issue that's causing it (see above, for example). I do use a dab of loctite on the caliper bracket adaptor bolts, it's in the instructions for the brake kit. Or it was for my Cobra's anyway.
I use anti-seize on the torsion bar adjusting bolts. Just a bit to keep them from rusting, makes adjustments a ton easier and doesn't collect dirt as badly as grease does. I've never had an issue with the adjustment changing. You can also use a bit of anti-seize on the SPC adjusters, they'll spin a little smoother and the jam nuts won't let anything move. But it looks like those are coated now too so that would be completely optional. Strut rod threads would be another spot since you have the QA1's with the aluminum strut, any dissimilar metals should get some anti-seize to make your life easier.
I didn't get instructions with the Viper brake kit. So caliper bracket bolts and not caliper mounting bolts? Just the bolts that hold the bracket onto the spindle? I would assume Loctite 242, medium not "forever".
Also, Firm Feel must have shipped the tie rods with a missing dust boot. Could not find it in the box anywhere. I have had them there since they came in the mail. Looked everywhere. Going to call them but just for giggles I looked online. Doesn't seem you can buy them separately.
Huh, sometimes Cass puts a few short instructions on the receipt. Anyway, yeah, bracket to spindle for the loctite. I don't believe it's called for on the caliper to bracket bolts, because the calipers need to come off for bearing, pad or rotor changes.
You can buy poly boots separate. I think this is the right size...
1974 PLYMOUTH DUSTER Energy Suspension 9.13101G Energy Suspension Tie Rod End Dust Boots | Summit Racing
Like I stated above the lighter the t-bar the more pressure it keeps on full travel. That is why they are used for drag racing. The heavier the bar the less travel it has. Some of you don't have common sense . 72blunblu You take the cake for stupidity Like the bolt I picture was cross threaded. You'll say anything and quote everyone to look like GOD. Why not just give your opinion without your continuous quote. Many articles on the web make you look like a dick.
This is just one of many
Quote this. ====>- - -
Torsion bars used for drag racing should be of as small a diameter as possible for more weight transfer (pitch rotation), yet strong enough to support the front of the car under all conditions. To plant the rear tires as hard as possible when launching a car with a factory-style suspension, it is necessary to get as much weight transfer (pitch rotation) as possible and to do so as quickly as possible. You don’t want the rear tires to start moving any distance before the weight starts to transfer. Smaller-diameter bars are lighter in strength and weight, and therefore respond quicker than the heavier bars they replace.
For example, 100 pounds taken off a smaller-diameter torsion bar raises the front of the car farther and quicker than 100 pounds taken off a larger-diameter torsion bar. Care must be used when using smaller-diameter torsion bars on the street. Smaller-diameter torsion bars may not be sufficient to control the car in a street-driving situation, even if they achieve what is needed for the drag strip. Traveling down a rough, uneven road surface using smaller-diameter torsion bars can get your car bouncing up and down uncontrollably, like a boat going over rough waves. Be honest with yourself regarding your vehicle’s true intended purpose, and choose the best-possible bar for your application.
Too much weight transfer (pitch rotation) makes the car slower in 60-foot clockings. During pitch rotation, the front bumper of the car rotates in a circle using the rear tires as the axis. Therefore, as the front bumper raises, it is actually moving in an upward and rearward direction. The more pitch rotation and rearward movement of the front of the car, the more torque the engine needs to move the car forward the same distance in the same amount of time.
The bolt was stripped at the end trying to get the nut off. The nut was totally stripped out. The nut was not cross threaded as stated by ******** blu. They turned on with our fingers . The front end alignment shop stripped it. The only time I ever had this problem . But its the only time I ever used these bolts . But this fucken guy knows it all even when he don't.
Seriously your welds look like bubble gum. Hows the rest of your workmanship. I wasn't going to say anything but.
What goes around cums around. LOL
OMM, You really know how to **** up a thread. I was posting this part of my project to kind of document what I’m doing to my car. Thanks for bringing your bullshit. Now I know to disregard every comment I see from you anywhere on the board.
I have had serious disagreements with @72bluNblu but I have always respected his knowledge. You keep saying he’s acting like a “God”? Seems like you are just simply trying to take the crown from him to appear to be a “God” of your own. I will never see you as that. More like a joke. You are now on ignore so what ever dumb **** you say next I won’t even see it.
And bubble gum or not, it’s better than the factory.
I have had serious disagreements with @72bluNblu but I have always respected his knowledge. You keep saying he’s acting like a “God”? Seems like you are just simply trying to take the crown from him to appear to be a “God” of your own. I will never see you as that. More like a joke. You are now on ignore so what ever dumb **** you say next I won’t even see it.
And bubble gum or not, it’s better than the factory.
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Pulled the info above from this site below. But I knew you Libtards from Cal. would disagree thinking it was from me. What ever you all do is right from the Bible of Brandon.
Drag Racing Traction: Front Suspension: Torsion Bars
autoxcuda
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?? don’t see reason to throw everyone living in a State under the bus, because you disagree with a post.
But yes, the stiff t-bars will unload/unwind quicker (with less distance traveled)
I just have not had any movement in mine over a couple decades. I was concerned and have watched that distance between the clip and t-bar and and the distance hasn’t moved.
Was the time you saw it was during a launch at a dragstrip?
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If it takes 100 lbs. to compress a heavy spring 1 inch. And 100 lbs. to compress a light spring 10 inches. That would mean in one inch of rise the heavy spring will be at neutral. Where the light spring would still have lift pressure after reaching 1 inch for 9 more inches. That is why /6 bars are used for drag racing. A quicker reaction for lift.
I only state what I have seen in 50 years of working on these cars . You don't have to agree its an opinion from me. I am not always right but. LOL. There are times I copy and post paragraphs right from the Direct Connection manual and he always knows better.
He is one of those guys that could fly a Piper Cub to the moon and back on one hit of "Ear" . If he don't agree with someone he will put 10 quotes in one post instead of just contacting the members. And then his libtard friends pile on. Like super Heros .
Here is How I initially discovered the lower arm movement. Initially I had a red poly kit in my Duster. I replaced the poly strut bushings after they crumbled apart one weekend. I still had red lower poly bushings in the Duster. I had a weld leaking on the pan and I was looking for a oil leak at Numidia dragway.
I backed the car out of the race trailer and hit the brakes at the bottom of the ramp. started looking for the leak and saw the gap on the pin between the bushing and the K-member. We put the car in low with the brake on and they went back against. With a 5500 converter we were going from low to reverse and the bushing was backing off the pin and back on. After that we tore the control arms out and replaced them with factory bushings. They never move again.
They only back out when hitting the brakes in reverse. and go in when hitting the brakes going forward. Other members on this site saw this , Not only me. If your bars are in all the way it will hold them but if they move back the arm will too. I have a car that the bar come out due to no clip and then the arm came off of the pin.
I backed the car out of the race trailer and hit the brakes at the bottom of the ramp. started looking for the leak and saw the gap on the pin between the bushing and the K-member. We put the car in low with the brake on and they went back against. With a 5500 converter we were going from low to reverse and the bushing was backing off the pin and back on. After that we tore the control arms out and replaced them with factory bushings. They never move again.
They only back out when hitting the brakes in reverse. and go in when hitting the brakes going forward. Other members on this site saw this , Not only me. If your bars are in all the way it will hold them but if they move back the arm will too. I have a car that the bar come out due to no clip and then the arm came off of the pin.
Look at my first post. I was only giving advise. Then 72blunblu started quoting everyone and giving disagrees. I gave him a disagree and you gave me one. For what? Because I offered advise.
I made the comment about your welds and gave you disagrees for the same reason you gave them to me. No reason at all.
I wish that asshloe would put me on his ignore list like you did. Not all but most west coast members have mental issues when you comment on their threads. Just look at all his quotes and how many in one post. And I'm the god? Give me a fucken break.
I see some more west coast members are piling on with their disagrees even if its an article. I never give a disagree I would sooner try and help but I see I have some more friends from the west coast again.
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
You can’t use Poly LCA bushings without using adjustable strut rods. If you don’t, you end up where you did.
You can use rubber LCA bushings and adjustable strut rods, but why bother using junky rubber bushings when you spent the money for adjustable strut rods.
I don’t do any more LCA bushings that aren’t Poly and adjustable strut rods.
autoxcuda
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I ran poly LCA with non adjustable strut rods from 1997 to 2011.
If you run poly strut rod bushings. They are thicker and will move the LCA back about 3/16”. You can cut that 3/16 off the inner/rear strut bushing to bring the LCA forward against the K-member
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Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
That is exactly what I made on mine,
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