Ammeter to voltmeter conversion

Still learning. My all stock '70 340 Swinger 340 needs some safe upgrades, while appearing stock. You electrical gurus rock. I'm familiar with installing wire bundles, and have an O'Scope, but stuffing a TF 408 in a stock wiring system ain't going to cut it. I've learned a ton of electrical information from all the members here. I bought a sheet of 4X8 plywood to make my own harness with upgraded wire gauge and connectors. More to follow.
If its stock then its fine. That system worked for 100 of thousands of cars. Add a relay circuit for the headlights. Why? because the original lamps were rated 40/40 Watt. Since the 70s replacements draw more. Bonus of using a relay harness is that reduces the maximum possible load through the R6 wire by 9 amps. I'd say the biggest issues are condition of wires and connectors. That most certainly includes the quality of the repair and replacement work. It also includes good wire routing and support. I, like many others, didn't give those last two much respect as young shade tree mechanic. But thats a big part of why wires and junctions survive long use without damage.

If you really want to do some reworking, again assuming stock loads, then copy one of the 'fleet' or 'heavy duty' wiring schemes. A parallel wiring is another approach, which is similar to the 'heavy duty' scheme used on 70s models with rear window defrost grid.

The voltmeter in the cigar lighter is OK for an occassional check. Check your year for where in the fusebox that is wired to. ;)
Sure don't want a slow drain! Thats exactly the type of thing that causes high battery draw and damages stuff!