Sway-A-Way Torsion Bars

I believe the adjustment lever is larger in that area near the frame on the QA1 LCAs too. I guess I will have to throw the passenger side in again with the adjustment bolt backed out and try that position. Seeing as how that is only ~3" from the pivot point it would move a lot less compared to the end where the spindle connects. When I was installing it though it just seems odd to me that you would design the bars to sit in a position that allows such a small amount of space before it would hit the frame.

It’s just the nature of the really large torsion bars. They twist very little with the weight of the car, so they go from fully loaded to completely unloaded in a very short distance on the adjusters. The clocking is then really important, because you basically get what the hex offset gives you.

For example, on my car my adjusters only have 2 full turns of the adjuster from where the adjusters make contact with the lever at full extension. That’s it. I run a 3/8” tall lower bumpstop and a 2.75” tall upper bumpstop, otherwise the LCA comes off the adjuster at full extension. I have about the same 4-5” of travel as factory, but I had to recenter it around my ride height. At compression the hard parts barely clear the frame, and without the upper bumpstop full extension means the adjusters are completely free.

Hopefully you’ve sent some of these pictures to sway-away, obviously they should know if those bars have the right specs. But the large bars can be tricky for setting ride height. PST messed it up originally with their 1.03” bars, they came with 0 offset and you couldn’t actually get the car to factory ride height, only lowered was an option. They changed the offset after a couple years to what they have now. Since people that run 1.14” bars are usually doing it for AutoX or road racing those cars are all lowered, so that’s how the bars are clocked.