Oldmanmopar said

Hitting the brakes in reverse relieves pressure on the torsion bar from lift. The stronger the bar the less distance it takes to unload. The reason weak bars are used for drag racing is they provide lift throughout their travel. Heavy bars lose lift and get looser at the the top.

When going forward and hitting the brakes the bushings are pushed forward. The strut rod is a pivot point between the spindle and the lower bushing.

Pull forward on the spindle it pulls out on the bushing. Pull back on the spindle it pushes the bushing forward. Add a swivel to the strut rod and you free up the motion and it gets worse.
Like I said take off the stabilizer link and pry the lower control arm back at the bushing. You'll be able to pry it off the pin. The only thing holding the arm forward at the bushing is the torsion bar and whats holding that forward??? The clip and without spacers and even then it travels 1/2 -3/4. Real stable set up. LOL . We tried with no luck

I like the adjustable strut rods just not used with lubed up poly bushings in the lower. Use the rubber molded in a shell.
We made are own struts before I bought a coil over suspension. We copied them off of "Ray Bartons Racings" Hemi Dart

My son was designing lower control arm with bearings for use with coil overs. We decided to buy a coil over suspension. Why re event the wheel. We went with AJE because of the light weight. For dual purpose or a heavy car I would recommend HDK. Stronger.

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