Bad knocking under feet

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MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Nice car.

When exactly does it clunk or knock?
Under load? while coasting? Turning?
Stopping? Bumps on the road?

Is the noise rpm related, does it speed/intensify with more gas pedal?
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For the most part i think it clunks sometimes when idling, but mostly it clunks really bad when driving straight. Its kind of hard to tell if it clunks when turning, because its still moving. I need to check and see if it also makes the noise in reverse, and coasting.

I dont think the noise is rpm related.


I checked today to see if the exhaust was loose at all, but its tight.
 
Kendog 170 said:
Any update ????
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Yup. We are making good headway. We pulled the driveshaft and everything looked super solid including the U-joints. We noticed that the stock exhust nearly hits the driver-side torsion bar as well as a section of the frame. We have it on jack stands and tested to see if that was the knokcing. It was hard to tell, but we believe thats the issue. While testing, the rear cylinder for the back drum brakes broke. New one on the way. We also have to fix our electrical problem. When using the key, and cranking on it, she doesnt start, but the second you release the key from as far forward as possible, it starts.
 
Check your ballast resistor wiring. There's a blue and a brown wire. Blue Ignition 1 around 8 volts (Run/start) Brown Ign. 2 Full 12volts only while cranking. Sounds like Brown is working maybe check Blue 1st or jump out Ballast to test. or check voltages.

Electronic ignition dual ballast.jpg
 
Oh, there are 4 and 5 pin ECU's Disregard the green wire on LHS of pic if you have a 4 pin Unit. It is not used.
 
Kendog 170 said:
Check your ballast resistor wiring. There's a blue and a brown wire. Blue Ignition 1 around 8 volts (Run/start) Brown Ign. 2 Full 12volts only while cranking. Sounds like Brown is working maybe check Blue 1st or jump out Ballast to test. or check voltages.

View attachment 1715870162
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I have the 5 pin control module ignition. Here is a pic of my ballast.
74D4ED29-E4DA-4306-B59C-1832E18A2DAF.jpeg
 
As has been said multiple times, bad broken/worn engine mounts will allow the engine to move more than it should causing the exhaust to hit the frame or t-bars.

The pipes may feel solid and not loose but if the engine moved so does the exhaust.

Try this, put it in gear and with your foot firmly on the brake goose the throttle a few times, I bet it starts doing it.
I just went through this, worn engine mounts (not broken). Replaced them problem solved.


Alan
 
Cuda Al said:
As has been said multiple times, bad broken/worn engine mounts will allow the engine to move more than it should causing the exhaust to hit the frame or t-bars.

The pipes may feel solid and not loose but if the engine moved so does the exhaust.

Try this, put it in gear and with your foot firmly on the brake goose the throttle a few times, I bet it starts doing it.
I just went through this, worn engine mounts (not broken). Replaced them problem solved.


Alan
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Yea they are most likely worn. The 360 has mild cam and the engine does have some rumble and shake to it. The exhasut shakes with it and hits that part of frame. I believe doing this is the best solution as of now, but we will need to replece to old mounts at some point. Thanks.
 
I had a 727 out of a truck that had a slightly different extention housing on it. A snap ring access was different and It bumped against the the transmission tunnel in a Abody . Also if they swapped the transmission or torque converter the drive train may be unbalanced.?
 
That's your knock right there.....where the exhaust pipe runs under the torsion bar cross member. When the engine torques, it torques to the right and that makes the pipe come in contact with the cross member. There'll be witness marks there.
 
ratty dart 340 said:
waiting on new ballast. Last night I put on new plug wires, dist. Cap, rotor, and coil.

getting new ballast today.View attachment 1715872299View attachment 1715872300View attachment 1715872301
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RustyRatRod said:
That's your knock right there.....where the exhaust pipe runs under the torsion bar cross member. When the engine torques, it torques to the right and that makes the pipe come in contact with the cross member. There'll be witness marks there.
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Welp id have to agree. I think thats the issue. So now how should i go about fixing it? I know the easiest way would probably just to hit the pipe with a mallot or something. I doubt this would work, but i just put on some header tape in between the pipe and frame to insulate the noise.

Soon we will put headers on it, but that will be a challenge to find some cool ones that fit an a body with a 360, with power steering.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions.
 
ratty dart 340 said:
Welp id have to agree. I think thats the issue. So now how should i go about fixing it? I know the easiest way would probably just to hit the pipe with a mallot or something. I doubt this would work, but i just put on some header tape in between the pipe and frame to insulate the noise.

Soon we will put headers on it, but that will be a challenge to find some cool ones that fit an a body with a 360, with power steering.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions.
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I don't think I'd beat or wrap anything. Getting that pipe down a little lower would be the correct way.

Actually, from going back and looking at it, that pipe needs to be remade. Whoever made it, totally "missed" the exhaust pipe nook in the cross member. All it needs is to be bent differently so it fits up into the cross member. They totally missed the boat with that one.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I don't think I'd beat or wrap anything. Getting that pipe down a little lower would be the correct way.

Actually, from going back and looking at it, that pipe needs to be remade. Whoever made it, totally "missed" the exhaust pipe nook in the cross member. All it needs is to be bent differently so it fits up into the cross member. They totally missed the boat with that one.
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How do I go about lowering it?
 
To me it looks like where it drops down by the starter it needs up and inboard, the problem is where it goes under the frame.
I was able to get in the pit at the exhaust shop and see it move, that was how we determined it was worn engine mounts.
Not saying yours is worn engine mounts but if you could see it move you might better see the solution.
Somewhere in the engine swap (along with who knows what swap) something moved or was modified.
To test we put the car in gear on the rack and goosed it while holding the brake.

You could look at the pipe to see which spot is hitting, I bet they both are.


Alan
 
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RustyRatRod said:
I'm not sure you can much. You can try lowering it at the rear hanger.
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Update: She is not sitting pretty. We still have a bad knock and its not the exhasut. The car still wont start until you let of the key from the furthest back position. The front wheel alignment has become even worse. The toe changes when we drive. The front left wheel almost seems as though it recieves more steering than the left side. Adjustments made from the sleeve, between the tie rod ends, does nothing. The car still wants to die after pressing the breaks.
 
Can you post a video with some GOOD audio?
 
Take a jumper wire direct from the battery+ to coil + and start it and see if it stays running. Just as a test. If it does follow your blue wire from coil that's the wire that keeps the car running after cranking. ( please correct me if I'm wrong but that's what I'd try if it isn't the Ballast.)
Sorry for the late response I've been a while
 
Kendog 170 said:
Take a jumper wire direct from the battery+ to coil + and start it and see if it stays running. Just as a test. If it does follow your blue wire from coil that's the wire that keeps the car running after cranking. ( please correct me if I'm wrong but that's what I'd try if it isn't the Ballast.)
Sorry for the late response I've been a while
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Hey thanks for responding. I think you might be talking about the thread of why the car wont start unless door is open. Sorry for the many threads LOL.
Anyways. I just tested your idea and the car did idle. However when i went to shut off the car, the car took about five seconds until it was finally dead. So clearly the blue wire to the coil positive changed something.
 
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