Magnum Head Valve Spring Compressor

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Tsully said:
That's the issue I ran into also!!! I'm thinking the same thing, that they think it will work on Magnum's just like it does for the LS's!!

Had to modify it like crazy and then it was still not quite right, as the springs I replaced were to wide and the middle bar would hit them and not compress them correctly!!!

I liked the idea though, as you could do 2 valves at once!!!
Click to expand...

What all did you do modify it?
 
DionR said:
What all did you do modify it?
Click to expand...

I took the part that mounts on the stud side and cut it, then re-welded it to the correct angle.

Then opened up the part that compresses the spring retainer so I could get the Keepers off.

THEN, after doing all that, it wouldn't work with my new set of springs and not compress them correctly as the bolt was too wide and wouldn't go in between the springs.

Lets just say, if I had to do it all over again, I wouldn't waste my time on even modifying it.

The one like you have in post #9 will work ok, but you will need something to hold the clamps in the springs because they will pop out at a most crucial point. I used one on a set of BBlock springs and there were times when I was ducking parts!!! This type works decent on really weak springs that don't require a lot of effort to remove!!

I would just do like @moparmandan did in post #13 and go this route or find someone with a spring compressor that you can borrow and install them.
 
Tsully said:
I took the part that mounts on the stud side and cut it, then re-welded it to the correct angle.

Then opened up the part that compresses the spring retainer so I could get the Keepers off.

THEN, after doing all that, it wouldn't work with my new set of springs and not compress them correctly as the bolt was too wide and wouldn't go in between the springs.

Lets just say, if I had to do it all over again, I wouldn't waste my time on even modifying it.

The one like you have in post #9 will work ok, but you will need something to hold the clamps in the springs because they will pop out at a most crucial point. I used one on a set of BBlock springs and there were times when I was ducking parts!!! This type works decent on really weak springs that don't require a lot of effort to remove!!

I would just do like @moparmandan did in post #13 and go this route or find someone with a spring compressor that you can borrow and install them.
Click to expand...

Thanks!

I think I am going to just try it as is and see if it works. It's pretty close, but might still have issues. Worst case, one of two things happen; A. I tweak the angle of the bolt via a cut and weld job or 2. I buy the stud mount one and a conversion stud.

Time will tell.
 
Tsully said:
I took the part that mounts on the stud side and cut it, then re-welded it to the correct angle.

Then opened up the part that compresses the spring retainer so I could get the Keepers off.

THEN, after doing all that, it wouldn't work with my new set of springs and not compress them correctly as the bolt was too wide and wouldn't go in between the springs.

Lets just say, if I had to do it all over again, I wouldn't waste my time on even modifying it.

The one like you have in post #9 will work ok, but you will need something to hold the clamps in the springs because they will pop out at a most crucial point. I used one on a set of BBlock springs and there were times when I was ducking parts!!! This type works decent on really weak springs that don't require a lot of effort to remove!!

I would just do like @moparmandan did in post #13 and go this route or find someone with a spring compressor that you can borrow and install them.
Click to expand...
Not unlike rocker arms, I had to unjust the "geometry" of the compressor up and down with the adjustment nuts to get a straight down push on the retainers to get the locks on. Too low and it would **** the spring and retainer sideways and make getting the locks on impossible. I learned a little about valve train geometry from this adventure.
 
Quick follow up. Finally got to the point I could start swapping the valve springs and the tool wasn't going to fit between the existing valve springs. I don't even want to try shaving it down, just seems pointless.

Now, this is a set of R/T heads from Mopar Performance with the upgraded springs. I tried the tool on a set of stock Magnum heads and got it to work there. But these springs just won't let the tool in between them.

So now I am on the hunt for a stud mount setup. Two steps forward, one step back.
 
The tool fits on standard magnum heads with stock springs. Upgraded springs like Hughes won't fit unless you grind the neck down to about 1/2 the width. The included bolt is too soft and ends up destroying the threads. Lots of messing around. It is easier to use the 2 jaw style with the handle on top and use a hose clamp to keep the jaws from popping out.
 
Freezerman said:
It is easier to use the 2 jaw style with the handle on top and use a hose clamp to keep the jaws from popping out.
Click to expand...

I assume you mean the screw type like I showed in post #9?

I'm a little concerned with trying that one since both the springs I am removing and the ones I am adding have a flat dampener. If those are tall enough, it could cause problems with trying to get things compressed.
 
Yes, exactly that one. I am currently upgrading to Hughes springs and retainer system. They have a damper inside the springs and it is time consuming but does work fairly well with a worm gear hose clamp to keep the arms in the spring.
 
Freezerman said:
Yes, exactly that one. I am currently upgrading to Hughes springs and retainer system. They have a damper inside the springs and it is time consuming but does work fairly well with a worm gear hose clamp to keep the arms in the spring.
Click to expand...

I guess I will have to give it a try if the stud mount one I just ordered falls through. Thanks!
 
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