Hemi swap oil pan questions

SlantedDart said
Alright guys.. swapping the pitman arm and idler DID help BUT from lock to lock on the steering box is two turns. I’m at 1-1/2 and the idler ball joint crashes into the pan.. I might just leave it seeing there only a half a turn left.

What steering box are you using? Never heard of a box with only 2 turns lock-to-lock. I think even the quicker Borgeson box is 3.25 turns or something.

Regardless, pretty sure the limits for steering are not in the box, but between the lower BJ and the control arm. There is a little nub on the BJ that contacts a spot on the control arm that limits the steering angle. At least on the later parts there is a nub, just looked maybe the earlier BJ does it differently?

Something to look at.

SlantedDart said
There is another issue.. the tie rods. They are super angry going in from the top. No other way to do it since the tapper of the center link.. so there IS a difference between lower ball joint/ steering arms from 72 on up. the arm must raise up and correct this issue. You COULD drill out the center link and use a rod end style from the bottom but it will mess up bumpsteer pretty bad the geometry is very pissed off leaving it under.

Need to figure out what spindles and LBJ you have. You said you have BBP on your car, and unless they are aftermarket, I think that means all of your suspension should be '73+ now.

Snap a picture of the spindle and brakes.

Could be the tie rod issue is more about having the suspension at full droop with the tie rod ends screwed in too far. As suggested above, might try and load the suspension and eyeball the alignment. You might find the tie rods are happier then.