Speedmaster sale. It started

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pittsburghracer said:
The Pro Comp days I wouldn’t have touched a head and especially not electronics. Their reputation was way past pathetic thus the need to change their name to Speedmaster. The name change alone in my eyes shows an aggressive move towards changing their reputation and quality control. If you get a chance j par cane you post up some pictures of the wiring stuff you bought. I’ve added to an already crap wiring job in my black duster. The RacePak really contributes to the project but I would really like to pretty it up some. My son’s into about 700.00 into his rewire and it’s not done yet.
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They're 20 circuit wiring kit is generally on sale for $111 and I got it for $88 on black friday... The only problem with almost every kit on the market is their GM based.. so any generic kit is going to have GM connections if there is any connections. And most get you to convert your steering column to a GM plug to plug into theirs... There's two reviews on Summit on this kit and one guy completely calls it junk, but you could tell he doesn't know how to do any wiring and another guy says it's okay and works but you've got to be knowing what you're doing LOL.. most kits don't have anything but a power wire for your windshield wipers so you need most of that wiring...
One thing I will say about this Speedmaster wiring kit is there's enough to do my club cab truck front to back and maybe enough left to give your son LOL do his car... Tons of extra wire and extra electric window circuits and such like that that I'm not going to use...
They only hitch I ran into so far was getting a good ignition wire for the run section for the coil. It gave a start wire but not a run wire.. I'm just jumping in and using the cruise control wire for that...
The cheapest generic American Auto wire kit is $300 for $88 not sure where I'm going wrong... Of course until the thing goes up in flames LOL...
But to be perfectly honest I'm going to run relays for my headlights high beam and low beam relays and relays for my electric fan and everything else will be on a fusible link besides the fuse box so I'm hoping not to have too much trouble. Also I did the in teletronics digital dash so it's got its own oil water fuel gauge Speedo and I won't be using any of those wires...
 
j par said:
They're 20 circuit wiring kit is generally on sale for $111 and I got it for $88 on black friday... The only problem with almost every kit on the market is their GM based.. so any generic kit is going to have GM connections if there is any connections. And most get you to convert your steering column to a GM plug to plug into theirs... There's two reviews on Summit on this kit and one guy completely calls it junk, but you could tell he doesn't know how to do any wiring and another guy says it's okay and works but you've got to be knowing what you're doing LOL.. most kits don't have anything but a power wire for your windshield wipers so you need most of that wiring...
One thing I will say about this Speedmaster wiring kit is there's enough to do my club cab truck front to back and maybe enough left to give your son LOL do his car... Tons of extra wire and extra electric window circuits and such like that that I'm not going to use...
They only hitch I ran into so far was getting a good ignition wire for the run section for the coil. It gave a start wire but not a run wire.. I'm just jumping in and using the cruise control wire for that...
The cheapest generic American Auto wire kit is $300 for $88 not sure where I'm going wrong... Of course until the thing goes up in flames LOL...
But to be perfectly honest I'm going to run relays for my headlights high beam and low beam relays and relays for my electric fan and everything else will be on a fusible link besides the fuse box so I'm hoping not to have too much trouble. Also I did the in teletronics digital dash so it's got its own oil water fuel gauge Speedo and I won't be using any of those wires...
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Have you checked that the wires are adequately sized? Some of the cheaper wire is not what they say they are, but have thicker insulation to make them look larger.
 
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mopowers said:
Have you checked that the wires are adequately sized? Some of the cheaper wire are not what they say they are, but have thicker insulation to make them look larger.
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Chinese wire! makes me think about the Chinese quality titanium drill bits, you know, the one's that melted when drilling a hole through metal. :lol:
 
fishmens67 said:
Chinese wire! makes me think about the Chinese quality titanium drill bits, you know, the one's that melted when drilling a hole through metal. :lol:
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American made doesn't mean anything anymore... Not unless it was made a long time ago...
 
mopowers said:
Have you checked that the wires are adequately sized? Some of the cheaper wire is not what they say they are, but have thicker insulation to make them look larger.
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Yes I did a lot of splicing in the steering column stuff and if the wire wasn't the same size the wiring kit wire was bigger than the factory on the inside...
 
Well SM got back to me today about my heads.

They offered to let me return them and they will give me credit to buy another set when they come back in stock. Or I can send them back and get a full refund.

Only problem is they have no idea when they will be back in stock and said they keep pushing back when a new shipment will come in stock.

I really cant decide if I want to send them back, or just pay a few hundred to have them looked over, fixed and cleaned up. Its a little more time and money in them, but 1500-1600 all in on the heads is still cheaper than edelbrocks and TF heads, plus no idea when those will be in stock either.

Pulled the dart out this weekend and took it for a couple of spins. Drives great still... Just needs more go fast.

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Hang onto them for now, as long as they honor that "offer", for a 6 month time frame? Get it in an email. Call them in 3 months to chk stock?
DentalDart said:
Well SM got back to me today about my heads.

They offered to let me return them and they will give me credit to buy another set when they come back in stock. Or I can send them back and get a full refund.

Only problem is they have no idea when they will be back in stock and said they keep pushing back when a new shipment will come in stock.

I really cant decide if I want to send them back, or just pay a few hundred to have them looked over, fixed and cleaned up. Its a little more time and money in them, but 1500-1600 all in on the heads is still cheaper than edelbrocks and TF heads, plus no idea when those will be in stock either.

Pulled the dart out this weekend and took it for a couple of spins. Drives great still... Just needs more go fast.

View attachment 1715843900
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pittsburghracer said:
That’s a water hole by the one in the chamber so that would concern me. I would prob it with a small stiff wire or the tool shown. Then if it just a shallow divot (casting fault) I would probably grind it a little and weld and grind it flush. If it’s deep and I didn’t have a welder or know someone capable it would be on its way back.
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Have you ever worked with a product called “Alumaweld” Being such a small imperfection, if he could conclusively determine it was just a shallow divot I wonder if the area could be heated with a handheld MAP torch and use the Alumaweld product to fill? I’ve used that stuff and if the area for welding is heated correctly it does hold.
Or what about an aluminum rod (essentially a pin) driven in, cut off slightly above the chamber surface, then driven further (like staking, until it splays being compressed into the void, then ground level? Me? I’d have no fear or concern of it falling out with either method.
If I knew of a welder who was an ace at aluminum welding perhaps I’d go that route but this seems minor and if not into a coolant passage an easy fix
 
I wouldn't repair a combustion chamber unless it was tig welded but that's just me. Send them back for a refund and look elsewhere. It sounds like you have a good running car now so time to find another set of heads is on your side.
 
Sure, ideally have it welded. But it’s not a damaged head, it not a fatal flaw it merely is a very very very minor imperfection “IF” not into a coolant, oil passage etc so it could be rectified with alternative acceptable measures.
Me? I’d essentially pin it, drive that ***** in, clean it up, done. Interference fit. It ain’t coming out.
In the end just do what’s best for you.
 
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I would send them back.
You paid good money for new parts.
 
Its just an imperfection. A square Divot in the chamber measures 2mm wide by 2mm deep. The divot doesnt go into the water passage.

Im going to run them, I'll get em cleaned up and drive the car like I stole it some more. If they hold up on the 340 with where it is now Im sure they will hold up on a new motor. Heck if something breaks before new motor is done Ill have an excuse to get more shiny car parts.

Now to find a machine shop in Springfield Missouri to do the clean up. Oh also time to buy the other things to make it all work

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DentalDart said:
Its just an imperfection. A square Divot in the chamber measures 2mm wide by 2mm deep. The divot doesnt go into the water passage.

Im going to run them, I'll get em cleaned up and drive the car like I stole it some more. If they hold up on the 340 with where it is now Im sure they will hold up on a new motor. Heck if something breaks before new motor is done Ill have an excuse to get more shiny car parts.

Now to find a machine shop in Springfield Missouri to do the clean up. Oh also time to buy the other things to make it all work

View attachment 1715844349
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it will be filled up with carbon before you get through the McDonald’s drive thru.
 
DentalDart said:
Its just an imperfection. A square Divot in the chamber measures 2mm wide by 2mm deep. The divot doesnt go into the water passage.

Im going to run them, I'll get em cleaned up and drive the car like I stole it some more. If they hold up on the 340 with where it is now Im sure they will hold up on a new motor. Heck if something breaks before new motor is done Ill have an excuse to get more shiny car parts.

Now to find a machine shop in Springfield Missouri to do the clean up. Oh also time to buy the other things to make it all work

View attachment 1715844349
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Will they at least give you some sort of refund for sending a slightly blemished head?
 
Anyone still waiting on their CNC SM heads ordered during the last Thanksgiving sale? they’re telling me that they are unable to fill the order. I haven’t fussed over it yet cause I don’t need the parts right now.
 
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