Break in oil

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ike61

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Howdy all. I’m slowly getting ready to break in my 360 on my run stand. What are ya’ll using for break in oil? Cam card says to use oil with zinc in it. Mild 360 hydraulic cam. Thanks

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I used lucas break in oil in mine with success. After the break in I changed the oil and put in the lucas muscle car oil.
 
The Lucas break in oil is very reasonable.
 
Just make sure you use a break in oil. I would not recommend playing mad chemist. Last one we did got Joe Gibbs break in oil and that one was a flat tappet engine.
 
roccodart440 said:
Just make sure you use a break in oil. I would not recommend playing mad chemist. Last one we did got Joe Gibbs break in oil and that one was a flat tappet engine.
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I played mad chemist and got away with it. Basically, you need zinc, how you get it is up to you. ( I used Diesel oil, OLD racing oil with zinc, and Lucas breakin additive, probably too much zinc)
On the other hand..... is $50 worth of breakin oil cheaper than a new cam if yours goes bad, and another r&r of the engine?
 
RustyRatRod said:
Looks great. How's it runnin?
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Its not at the moment. Im still fighting with the fuel tank trying to get the new sending unit and new gas tank to seal and not leak. It's been a pita. I have a whole series about it on YouTube.
 
Craig Burriss said:
I’ve heard of people using the Shell Rotella diesel oil. Evidently it has a lot of zinc and is pretty cheap
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The rotella t4 has 1200 ppm according to shell. Which is enough for flat tappet cams. The lucas muscle car oil claims to be 2400 ppm but is 3 times the price. It's around 42 dollars a gallon vs rotella is around 18 dollars a gallon. After the engine is properly broke in I wouldn't be afraid of the rotella. I probably will use it on mine after 3 or 4 oil changes.
 
dartfreak75 said:
The rotella t4 has 1200 ppm according to shell. Which is enough for flat tappet cams. The lucas muscle car oil claims to be 2400 ppm but is 3 times the price. It's around 42 dollars a gallon vs rotella is around 18 dollars a gallon. After the engine is properly broke in I wouldn't be afraid of the rotella. I probably will use it on mine after 3 or 4 oil changes.
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That Lucas with 2400ppm of zinc / phosphorus is way too much to be used after break-in. Levels above 1500 have been proven to cause pitting and spalling. When you see oils that say racing only on them, one reason is that they have high levels of ZDDP, and generally the oil is not left in the engine long term. 1200 is more than enough. 1000 is good, but you may want to avoid going over 3000 miles between oil changes.
One I like a lot right now is Mobil1 FS 0W-40. 1000ppm zinc, 1100 phosphorus, has the stringent Euro approvals like Porsche A40. I did my fall oil change with it. $25 for 5 quarts at Wally's.
 
dartfreak75 said:
The rotella t4 has 1200 ppm according to shell. Which is enough for flat tappet cams. The lucas muscle car oil claims to be 2400 ppm but is 3 times the price. It's around 42 dollars a gallon vs rotella is around 18 dollars a gallon. After the engine is properly broke in I wouldn't be afraid of the rotella. I probably will use it on mine after 3 or 4 oil changes.
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Good oil ( Period )
 
Rat Bastid said:
Not for gas burning engines. It’s a diesel oil for Diesel engines. The additive package is for diesel fuel, not gasoline.
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The dabate can go on FOREVER
U could run Dollar General oil and change it regularly and get 300,000 out of an engine
Lots of oils and always lots of preferences.
 
On your next engine lather up the cam with this and u should have ZERO issues !!!
I even do the lifter bores and never had and issue !!

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Always good to do a good break in.
Follow the norm of running 2-2.5k first 20 min.
If your open valve spring pressure is under 350lbs w a moderate cam, should be no big issue.
After break in, oil change will prob only require a minimum of zinc additive.
Never hurts too be careful.
 
1Badcolt said:
On your next engine lather up the cam with this and u should have ZERO issues !!!
I even do the lifter bores and never had and issue !!

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LOL I don’t use that either. Too damned dirty. But...a diesel oil isn’t built for gasoline. You wouldn’t use gasoline oil in a diesel oil would you? There is no reason to use a diesel oil in a gas engine and gas oil in a diesel. Two completely different formulations for two completely different engines.

It’s not 1950 any more. Oils are built for a purpose. Running a cheap oil is just dumb.
 
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