I currently have a 318 but am thinking of swapping it out for a 360. I have a lead on a 89 360 out of a truck, which means it should be a roller engine with 308 heads. I want to stick with a LA engine, would this be a good option?
89 360 engine
- Thread starter Dusted73
- Start date
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64mopar
Well-Known Member
Yes.
You will need a 360 car oil pan.
You will need a 360 car oil pan.
yes, if it's a good engine
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
I'd use it too.
Swingin Chrome
Well-Known Member
360 externally balanced so be sure to get the dampner and flex plate as well.RJ
It's been sitting for 2 1/2 years so I don't know how good it is. It might be stuck but it's complete and $200.00, do you think it would be worth a rebuild.
Totally depends on your budget.
Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
Hell yes, if it's in decent shape.
Is it a runner? That will give you some clues, as in the condition of the heads... 308s are decent heads performance-wise, but are notorious for cracking between the seats- like magnum heads, sometimes the cracks don't impede their use and people just run 'em. Not advocating it, just sayin'. I've only seen 1 cracked set, and had 3 sets that were good (I've been lucky). I suspect the bad set was overheated at one point. But it isn't an uncommon thing to see.
The blocks I have seen have all been in really good shape, factory crosshatch still present in the bores; they are TBI and don't suffer cylinder wash like carbed motors.
You'll need a pass. car 360 oil pan/pickup/dipstick (your 318 pan won't fit a 360), an LA intake and carb to replace the TBI, and either a 360 balanced torque convertor or the B&M 10239 flexplate and use your current convertor. Use the pullies and accessory drives from your 318 on the 360. You can use your 318's distributor, too- the 360's is a TBI-only unit.
Edit: If it's been sitting, its value is totally in your hands. If it's stuck, I would offer him just over scrap price on it- it will be a complete unknown, and a lot of it will be replaced anyways- see above.
Is it a runner? That will give you some clues, as in the condition of the heads... 308s are decent heads performance-wise, but are notorious for cracking between the seats- like magnum heads, sometimes the cracks don't impede their use and people just run 'em. Not advocating it, just sayin'. I've only seen 1 cracked set, and had 3 sets that were good (I've been lucky). I suspect the bad set was overheated at one point. But it isn't an uncommon thing to see.
The blocks I have seen have all been in really good shape, factory crosshatch still present in the bores; they are TBI and don't suffer cylinder wash like carbed motors.
You'll need a pass. car 360 oil pan/pickup/dipstick (your 318 pan won't fit a 360), an LA intake and carb to replace the TBI, and either a 360 balanced torque convertor or the B&M 10239 flexplate and use your current convertor. Use the pullies and accessory drives from your 318 on the 360. You can use your 318's distributor, too- the 360's is a TBI-only unit.
Edit: If it's been sitting, its value is totally in your hands. If it's stuck, I would offer him just over scrap price on it- it will be a complete unknown, and a lot of it will be replaced anyways- see above.
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Not sure if it's a runner. It's been sitting 2 1/2 years but it's $200.00 so I guess it's a gamble? I do have a new distributor, weiand intake and edelbrock 600 carb
well, if you are buying it from a stranger, then condition is unknown. It may be scrap or it could be a drop and go. You'd have to pull a cover or two and inspect. I cannot say if 200 is a deal or not without knowing the condition.
To be a hydraulic roller engine, it usually needs to be out of a HD truck, as in 3/4 ton or larger truck, van, or a Ramcharger. A cell phone camera pointed down the distributor hole will at least show the back of the lifter locator spider. But a very good base for a build. A cell phone bore scope camera is also a good investment to look in the cylinders with.
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dirty white boy
50 yr old Juvenal delinquent
if it rolls over its worth 200!! if it builds pressure in all 8 cylinders it should run! roller cam an 308s hell yeah its worth 200 and a good platform to build from or run as is!!
This may be true, I don't know this statement to be incorrect. It was my understanding all 88-92 LA 360's were roller cams though. My personal experience is that all 5 of the engines I've had in this time window were roller engines. Going to pick up another in a few days. For a disassembled engine I'd say 100-150 bucks.
These are a great platform to build upon. These later blocks usually had better machining tolerances with less core shift than older ones. The efi prevented cylinder wash down from running rich on the choke. The ones I've pulled apart had little bore wear, most had cross hatch still visible.
I know I’m getting old when:
(Sorry OP- not trying to derail here)
$200 for a used engine back in the 80’s was a running, drivable drop in with 50k on the clock. We forget that they now are 40 years old and have now been thru like 2-3 owners.
For $200 I would take the risk (like buying 200@ $1.00 lottery ticks) but be prepared for even the best engine to possibly have issues. $200 is just a price for admission to the cheap seats, but every ride cost money.
it may be as easy as a car oil pan and gaskets (fingers crossed) or major surgery.
I wish you well and good luck! Keep us posted.
Syleng1
(Sorry OP- not trying to derail here)
$200 for a used engine back in the 80’s was a running, drivable drop in with 50k on the clock. We forget that they now are 40 years old and have now been thru like 2-3 owners.
For $200 I would take the risk (like buying 200@ $1.00 lottery ticks) but be prepared for even the best engine to possibly have issues. $200 is just a price for admission to the cheap seats, but every ride cost money.
it may be as easy as a car oil pan and gaskets (fingers crossed) or major surgery.
I wish you well and good luck! Keep us posted.
Syleng1
Magnumswap.com
Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
It's not a Magnum; he said it's an '89, so it's an LA.
cudamark
Well-Known Member
Grab the crank pulley and see if it will turn over. rock the pulley back and forth and listen for any bearing noise. Unless you can hear it run and see the oil pressure, I'd figure it to be a core. Tear it down and at the least, do a ring, bearing, and reseal job. I'd probably do a valve job too depending on how everything looks inside. Once you have the heads off, you can pour some solvent or gasoline into the ports to see if you have any valve leakage. I'd still pull the valves, lap them in, and install new seals and brass freeze plugs. (in the block too!)
Jarlaxle
Well-Known Member
If it's a decent core and turns over with a wrench...maybe flash $150? If the guy takes it, you're good.
You probably know this, but to swap it for a 318, you'll need a 360 oil pan, harmonic balancer, and converter/flywheel/weighted flexplate.
You probably know this, but to swap it for a 318, you'll need a 360 oil pan, harmonic balancer, and converter/flywheel/weighted flexplate.
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
Squirt oil in the cylinders before you try to turn it over
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
I'd inspect the bearings and cylinder walls, timing chain. Why do people always want to bolt on parts before they know the condition of the engine? Unless I knew what the history was of the engine or actually heard it run, I would go through it.
Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
He was just responding to my post about what he'll need to make it work in his car, and convert it from TBI. Of course it needs to be inspected before running it.
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
I understand. It's that it would be a bummer if he did all that and the engine would be shot. I've noticed that some people can't wait to bolt on a 4 barrel and headers without having any knowledge of the condition of the engine. I've only put a used engine in a vehicle one time and that was because I knew the guy that rebuilt it, other wise I always tear down and go through them first.
It's tough responding on internet threads. We don't know how knowledgeable a certain member may be and who has time to type out each and every detail. It should go without saying that you should check a used engine out before bolting it in and expecting it to run. Although I have. You buy a used one from a salvage yard you expect it to run unless it is sold as a core.
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
I, myself really enjoy this forum. Everyone is willing to share their experiences and knowledge. I personally have never bought a engine from a salvage yard. I've always rebuilt what I already had or bought a short block.
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