Edelbrock aluminum heads 60179 or 60779?

.021Q has been reported as successfully-run on FABO, but not by me, and only by a couple of members; so ask around. You have to have a sharp tune at that spec.
However, before I would run the .054 gasket, I would mill the crowns a tad; see note-1, down to in the range of .010 to .012, for the .039m FelPro. That gasket is tough as can be. I've run it at a tic over 190psi, with no problems.
If the 268/110 cam is already in the engine, and in good shape; you paid good money for it, so you may as well leave it there. I sure wouldn't condemn it unless I really needed more.
>Because your short-block is shaping up with a pretty decent compression ratio, this gives you the freedom to run an Ica of up to about 64* before the P/V starts getting soft at 130. I wouldn't run down there, but many on FABO do. And with 4.10s you could get away with it. (I run 3.55s so need the extra oomph of 160Plus) What that means is that your cam does not necessarily need to go in at the recommended 4* advance. With the 4.10s you could easily go as far as to straight up.

That is the beauty of running a high pressure ; you get to run hiway gears in the city, AND you get to run a smaller cam, about one cam size per 10points of P/V.
So if you have a car that needs to cruise say with 3.23s for 65=2600, then you gotta pump the pressure up.
For me, a streeter is all about getting second gear dialed in. I like a second gear of around 6.80. With a 1.92 Second gear, this is 3.55s; that's why I run them.
This will get me 30=2550, slow enough to cruise in, and 60=5100 on the power peak, for ripping. First gear is whatever, and cruise also is whatever I get.
So then, the starter is just 2.66 x 3.55=9.44, for take off power, which can be a tad lackluster; so then; I need cubes, pressure, or a lower first gear. That's why I have a 360, AND a Commando 3.09 low gear, AND a high P/V over 160!, lol.
But at hiway speed the Rs of 2870 are just too much for me, so I installed a GVod which brings it down to 65=2240. At 2240, that high P/V now pays dividends with a potential for great fuel-economy.
The only other way to get the RPM down that far with a 4-speed, is with a 2.76 gear. Not going there, lol.
Ask around FABO about P/V and 10 guys will jump on and say P/V means nothing to them, but I can almost guarantee you that #1, they have an automatic trans, and #2 with a hi-stall, so they are right, for them P/V means almost nothing..... because P/V is an indicator of low-rpm performance. by 3000 to 3500 it is getting to be meaningless. And #3, they are probably not interested in mpgs either. So when you go asking, make sure you specify 340 and manual trans.
>For you, a high P/V is a really big deal. I suggest a minimum of 140 with 3.55s; but could be less with 4.10s, but IMO 130 is the lowest, else your 340 will start to feel like a lazy-azz smoggerteen when taking off......... even with the 4.10s!, altho like a 318 with 4.10s, lol.
I use the Wallace calculator exclusively now.
Wallace Racing: Dynamic Compression Ratio Calculator

note-1
>Milling on a fixture is fast and easy, and those slugs have plenty of meat on them. Taking .006/.008 off is just one pass so should be cheap, and is a better solution than the .054 gasket, IMO.
>The FellPro .039s are so tough, I have even reused them, bringing their cost down to 1/2.
>My KB 107s are about .007 out of the holes and so the Q is now .032 which I feel is adequate. My alloy-headed combo is no quicker with the PowerTiming set at 36* advance than 32*; so I run 32 to 34. I delayed it to all in by 3400 and so she runs exclusively on 87E10..