64 barracuda fusible link
Update for post #10:
Cleaned battery terminals and I added additional ground using my jumper cables-no change. I added a permanent additional ground wire from battery negative cable terminal to radiator support--no change. I removed the wires to the ammeter and bolted them together--no change.
I checked for continuity for the under hood fusible link--checked out OK. I checked for power to the tail/stop light fuse--checked out OK (current available there). I checked for power to the cigar lighter fuse--checked out OK there. I checked for power to the cigar lighter--checked out OK there. I checked for power to the brake light switch-checked out OK there.
But we still have no headlights, no brake lights, no horn, no power to the positive side of the coil, no starter motor action using the ignition key. Everything dead as a door nail.
I used a remote starter switch connected to the starter solenoid under the hood and the motor cranked over! I pulled the wiring plug from the ignition switch harness (key) and the red hot wire had current coming from the battery. But turning the key to the "on" position resulted in no voltage at the coil. I checked the ballast resistor for continuity--checked out OK there.
I replaced the underhood wiring harness with an aftermarket one (I was not pleased with it and had stored away for a rainy day). This harness did not include the front lighting harness so I had to to remove the factory black tape the secured the front lighting harness and the underhood harness together (see photo).
The original ignition switch kept getting "stuck" during my testing: like it would turn a few times and then lock up, turn a couple of times and lock up again.
Anyway, I primed the carb with some gasoline because the vehicle has been stranded in the yard for I don't know how many months now (trying to pour a little gas into the two-barrel's carb vent at the same time). I turned the key, the starter cranked over, the motor started, it ran for a couple of seconds, then it died. I primed the carb a second time and then turned the key to re-start: nothing happened. The starter would not crank.
I left the key in the "on" position and checked for current at the coil. It seemed no current at the coil now.
I turned off the ignition key. I attached the remote starter switch and I ran a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to the positive coil terminal. I primed the carb and the motor started and died a few times. Finally, it idled and ran all on its own, with the jumper wire still connected to the coil.
I shut the motor off after a couple of minutes and tried the key again. No, not working. I found I have a horn now, parking lights, brake lights, and head lights. Beginning to think we have a problem with the ignition switch itself.
Update for post #10:
Cleaned battery terminals and I added additional ground using my jumper cables-no change. I added a permanent additional ground wire from battery negative cable terminal to radiator support--no change. I removed the wires to the ammeter and bolted them together--no change.
I checked for continuity for the under hood fusible link--checked out OK. I checked for power to the tail/stop light fuse--checked out OK (current available there). I checked for power to the cigar lighter fuse--checked out OK there. I checked for power to the cigar lighter--checked out OK there. I checked for power to the brake light switch-checked out OK there.
But we still have no headlights, no brake lights, no horn, no power to the positive side of the coil, no starter motor action using the ignition key. Everything dead as a door nail.
I used a remote starter switch connected to the starter solenoid under the hood and the motor cranked over! I pulled the wiring plug from the ignition switch harness (key) and the red hot wire had current coming from the battery. But turning the key to the "on" position resulted in no voltage at the coil. I checked the ballast resistor for continuity--checked out OK there.
I replaced the underhood wiring harness with an aftermarket one (I was not pleased with it and had stored away for a rainy day). This harness did not include the front lighting harness so I had to to remove the factory black tape the secured the front lighting harness and the underhood harness together (see photo).
The original ignition switch kept getting "stuck" during my testing: like it would turn a few times and then lock up, turn a couple of times and lock up again.
Anyway, I primed the carb with some gasoline because the vehicle has been stranded in the yard for I don't know how many months now (trying to pour a little gas into the two-barrel's carb vent at the same time). I turned the key, the starter cranked over, the motor started, it ran for a couple of seconds, then it died. I primed the carb a second time and then turned the key to re-start: nothing happened. The starter would not crank.
I left the key in the "on" position and checked for current at the coil. It seemed no current at the coil now.
I turned off the ignition key. I attached the remote starter switch and I ran a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to the positive coil terminal. I primed the carb and the motor started and died a few times. Finally, it idled and ran all on its own, with the jumper wire still connected to the coil.
I shut the motor off after a couple of minutes and tried the key again. No, not working. I found I have a horn now, parking lights, brake lights, and head lights. Beginning to think we have a problem with the ignition switch itself.
