89 360 engine

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Not sure if it's a runner. It's been sitting 2 1/2 years but it's $200.00 so I guess it's a gamble? I do have a new distributor, weiand intake and edelbrock 600 carb
You have received a lot of good advice. Here is my $0.02. Buy it! Then take it home and completely disassemble it. If you don't have an engine stand, buy one at Harbor Freight for $50. You will have $200 worth of fun disassembling the engine whether it is good or not. Have you ever rebuilt an engine?? It isn't Rocket science. Buy the appropriate book and rebuild it yourself. It really is easy, and if you take your time and follow instructions carefully. Plus, we can help.
 
You have received a lot of good advice. Here is my $0.02. Buy it! Then take it home and completely disassemble it. If you don't have an engine stand, buy one at Harbor Freight for $50. You will have $200 worth of fun disassembling the engine whether it is good or not. Have you ever rebuilt an engine?? It isn't Rocket science. Buy the appropriate book and rebuild it yourself. It really is easy, and if you take your time and follow instructions carefully. Plus, we can help.
I have never rebuilt one before but that was my plan was to learn and hopefully succeed. If I need to send it out for machine work then I'm okay witj that. Any suggestions on if I should leave heads bone stock and just do cam and lifters?
 
I have never rebuilt one before but that was my plan was to learn and hopefully succeed. If I need to send it out for machine work then I'm okay witj that. Any suggestions on if I should leave heads bone stock and just do cam and lifters?
Have a 3 angle valve job and back cut the valve's, had blend the bowl area and make sure that the chamber side of the cylinder heads is true
 
I have never rebuilt one before but that was my plan was to learn and hopefully succeed. If I need to send it out for machine work then I'm okay witj that. Any suggestions on if I should leave heads bone stock and just do cam and lifters?
Depends on your ultimate plans for the motor.
The heads will need to be checked- 308s are prone to cracking, so even if they look okay make sure. Springs and retainers will need to be replaced to get rid of the valve rotators anyway, so follow the cam manufacturer's advice on spring specs. A nice 3 angle valve job and maybe some cleanup/ gasket matching at the ports and you're home free for a DD. Factory lifters are decent, have heard some stories about aftermarket- since it's a roller you can get away with the factory stuff, replacements are cheap if there's issues. Unless you're going with a flat tappet cam...
 
This may be true, I don't know this statement to be incorrect. It was my understanding all 88-92 LA 360's were roller cams though. My personal experience is that all 5 of the engines I've had in this time window were roller engines. Going to pick up another in a few days. For a disassembled engine I'd say 100-150 bucks.

These are a great platform to build upon. These later blocks usually had better machining tolerances with less core shift than older ones. The efi prevented cylinder wash down from running rich on the choke. The ones I've pulled apart had little bore wear, most had cross hatch still visible.

I agree,
In my experience with these platforms:
I've had 1984 ramcharger, 1989 ramcharger, 1983 Power Ram W150, and a 1988 Power Ram W150.
The 1988 Power Ram did not have a roller LA 360. (it was manufactured in 08/1987 so It's possible it was using leftover 87' stock)
The 1989 Ramcharger did (yes, it was the original engine).
The 83 and 84 obviously did not as well.
I then acquired a low mileage 1990 LA-roller 360 (minus heads/intake) that I found in a salvage yard out of a 90's Dakota project that someone threw away.
I pieced together the 90' motor using parts from the 1989 W150 360 as the 89' cylinder walls were well worn. I used these to build the engine I'm using now in my Duster.
And yes these are a great platform to build on as you say.
I'm now building a 408 stroker based on a 02' magnum.

Also note to the OP @Dusted73; that the push rod guide holes in the cylinder heads of roller-LA & magnum's are quite a bit bigger than the standard cylinder heads. Meaning the older heads will not work unless the guide holes are drilled out (pushrod angles of the roller lifters are quite different from the standard flat-tappets).
If you're going for aftermarket heads pay attention to these as well, there are some that do have larger pushrod guides for LA, others do not. You can use aftermarket Magnum heads but it will require oiling mods to work in LA's. (others here on this webpage have done this mod).
 
Yes. Last work that I recommended to be farmed out to their was only $149. That may change with inflation, but at least you get a core in a hydraulic roller LA.
 
I have never rebuilt one before but that was my plan was to learn and hopefully succeed. If I need to send it out for machine work then I'm okay witj that. Any suggestions on if I should leave heads bone stock and just do cam and lifters?
Again, my $0.02. It depends on your budget, what the engine needs and goals for the engine. If you are really lucky, and the engine is pretty good internally, maybe you could get by with a "Refresh". New bearings and rings, a quick hone job, a quick Valve job, reuse the cam and lifters if they are OK and a gasket kit. This rarely happens, but you might get lucky. That being said, I would highly recommend a more thorough rebuild if your budget allows. The next two suggestions assume the engine does need machine work. If you are on a tighter budget, find a decent machine shop to bore and hone the block, turn the crank and do a good valve job with new seals, retainers and springs. Buy budget minded pistons, rings, bearings and gasket kit. Buy a budget minded cam & lifters. Buy a decent intake (stock 68-70 340 Intake is great and not terribly expensive, and it was very good), and a decent carb around 600-650 CFM. you should be able to get 300 HP easily on a budget. If you are NOT on a tight budget, have the machine shop bore and hone and deck the block, turn the crank, do a good valve job with new seals, retainers and springs, and resize the rods. You should also spend the extra money to have things magnafluxed. Buy better pistons, rings, bearings and gasket kit. Buy a better cam & lifter kit. Buy a better intake (Aluminum high rise), and a decent carb around 680-750 CFM and headers. You should be able to get 360 HP easily without breaking the bank.
 
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