64 barracuda fusible link
Dibbons,
I'm afraid you're going to burn something up testing like that.
It's much better to work systematicly from the power source back.
Lemme explain.
You can use either voltage or resistance when looking for a complete break in the power feed.
Voltage should be present whenever the battery is connected, whether or not the light is on.
So what's this got to do with finding the fault?
Well, for one, it lets you use the car's ammeter as a trouble shooting tool.
Step on the brakes, or turn on the tail lights, and the ammeter will show how much current is flowing out of the battery.
No ammeter movement, no flow.
(Another thing is useful for is preventing a meltdown or fire. If you see the meter pegging, then that's 40 amps flowing through it and that will quickly cause damage. Don't wait for the fusible to melt or the battery to cook! )
Next is Systematic checks from the power source.
On a '65, if anything turns on, other than the horn, then the connections are good enough for some power to flow to the mainsplice.
The ammeter will also indicate how much current is flowing from the battery when that item is turned on.
Even though the starter gets power directly, the power for the starter relay and ignition flow through the key switch. So that current shows on the ammeter when the key is in start.
Now lets talk about using voltage measurements to narrow the down the fault.
Begin with establishing connection at the battery. Key off, doors shut.
1. Battery voltage
Then work your way down the line. So next junction is at the starter relay
Then if accessible - on a 1965 it is - at the firewall connector
At this juncture, the next step in line is to go check voltage to ground on the inside at the firewall, and then very carefully at the ammeter, fusebox 'hot' side, and the key switch feed.
However, it may make sense to jump ahead and see if there is battery voltage at the alternator's 'Batt" terminal.
If there is battery voltage at the alternator's batt terminal, then you know everything in between those two are connected.
So then you can go to the fusebox, key switch, and headlight if need be.
Remember, checking voltage with no current flowing doesn't reveal poor connections versus good connections. It just shows there is a connection.
To find a poor connection, use the same sequence, but with current flowing through the wires and connections of interest.
When you find a lower voltage, that indicates there was a poor connection in the current path between the battery and where you are measuring.
Now that the battery has been used for all this testing, please please please remember to recharge the battery on a charger before starting the engine.
Dibbons,
I'm afraid you're going to burn something up testing like that.
It's much better to work systematicly from the power source back.
Lemme explain.
You can use either voltage or resistance when looking for a complete break in the power feed.
H'm doubt you measured current. Current is only flows through the fuse when one of those light are on.
Voltage should be present whenever the battery is connected, whether or not the light is on.
So what's this got to do with finding the fault?
Well, for one, it lets you use the car's ammeter as a trouble shooting tool.
Step on the brakes, or turn on the tail lights, and the ammeter will show how much current is flowing out of the battery.
No ammeter movement, no flow.
(Another thing is useful for is preventing a meltdown or fire. If you see the meter pegging, then that's 40 amps flowing through it and that will quickly cause damage. Don't wait for the fusible to melt or the battery to cook! )
Next is Systematic checks from the power source.
On a '65, if anything turns on, other than the horn, then the connections are good enough for some power to flow to the mainsplice.
The ammeter will also indicate how much current is flowing from the battery when that item is turned on.
Even though the starter gets power directly, the power for the starter relay and ignition flow through the key switch. So that current shows on the ammeter when the key is in start.
Now lets talk about using voltage measurements to narrow the down the fault.
Begin with establishing connection at the battery. Key off, doors shut.
1. Battery voltage
Then work your way down the line. So next junction is at the starter relay
Then if accessible - on a 1965 it is - at the firewall connector
At this juncture, the next step in line is to go check voltage to ground on the inside at the firewall, and then very carefully at the ammeter, fusebox 'hot' side, and the key switch feed.
However, it may make sense to jump ahead and see if there is battery voltage at the alternator's 'Batt" terminal.
If there is battery voltage at the alternator's batt terminal, then you know everything in between those two are connected.
So then you can go to the fusebox, key switch, and headlight if need be.
Remember, checking voltage with no current flowing doesn't reveal poor connections versus good connections. It just shows there is a connection.
To find a poor connection, use the same sequence, but with current flowing through the wires and connections of interest.
When you find a lower voltage, that indicates there was a poor connection in the current path between the battery and where you are measuring.
Now that the battery has been used for all this testing, please please please remember to recharge the battery on a charger before starting the engine.
