Head Bolt Torque Question
Was Dutra using studs? If I were him and building a hi performance slant with his clout, Id be using studs. Very hard to determine the proper torque needed (different bolt finish, lubes, strength) unless your using a bolt stretch meter as in good rod bolts. It would have to be measured off the block and not the head as that is moving under the bolts. I never heard of such a setup but Id probably just follow the FSM, or bolt/stud manufacturer (ARP/Pioneer/Etc)
Dutra wasn't using studs in this book. His example engine was a worn out '70s(?) engine.
Not a huge difference there, main thing is they are all even and torqued from the center out. Big difference between 65 ft/lb and 80 ft/lb though/ and none of these (that I remember) say whether that is "dry" torque, or "with oil"
When I did the valve job 2K miles ago, I found Red Permatex smeared way up the head bolts. I used the same to reassemble. This time, the machine recommended a Permatex Blue #2 non-hardening for the threads.
yeah that's funny aint it? ("bad" sort of funny) Every Chilton's or Motor's manual, even the FSM say that a slant is "factory stock" at 8.4:1. and with a net of 70 thou milled off my head and deck, when running my numbers thru a Wallace style CR calculator, I come up with "just barely", exactly, that number. I hate to think how little I really started out with.
so/ you had the valve job done, reassembled and then re-disassembled it for a head shave? You should have had that done the 1st go-round. would have saved yourself a redo.
Yep - mine too! Before the head shave, I calculated 8.0:1. After removing .750" off the head, I'm at 8.6:1.
When I first got the car two years ago, it had a burnt valve, oil soaked clutch, Swiss cheese radiator and heater core, trashed 4 spd, flat rear springs, worn out front end bushings, rust, yada-yada. Oh did I mention that I paid to have it inspected back in Rhode Island and it has a really pretty interior and paint job? Anyway, I was a bit overwhelmed with getting my honey "the" model car she drove when she was 20 for her birthday and finding sooo much work to do when I naively thought I was going to change the oil and lube the door hinges. Oh if I knew then what I know now... With the long repair road in front of me, I didn't want to shave the head along with the valve job and blow out the unknown piston ring condition. I wanted a break. Recently, I got a cranking compression of 165lbs with a slightly looser valve adjustment and with that am reasonably confident in the rings holding up to the milled head.
This round started with a new exhaust before the old one falls off. Great excuse for some type of header. If I'm going to do that, I may as well upgrade to that 318 two barrel. If I'm going to do that, I should shave the head. So I'm doing all that and that's how far my money's going. Oh and I don't recall who said it but I can scoot the drivers seat closer to the throttle pedal for free. HA!
Why would you rethink what the factory service manual says?
Only because Dutra has such a good rep in the forums.
And thanks to all the rest for your input. You guys bring years and years of valuable experience to babes in the woods like me. I've said it before and will probably say it again sometime; This car wouldn't be a reliable driver without everyone sharing their experience.
I hope to see some of you guys on the road this year! :steering:
