motor mount question

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hotairgypsy

hotairgypsy

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73 dodge dart with (1980) 360 long block.... so i got into this engine and the motor mounts were shot...well i removed both motor mounts yesterday and discovered a bearing of all things in there...guess they used it as a spacer...so bought new mounts and i am not planning on reinstalling a bearing so wanted to know if you all agree with my plan of attack...First think i want to know is i assume spacing is needed anyways due to the car having a 360 instead of the 318 it was built with...secondly...so you can see in the last 2 pics the thicker washers...i was just gonna tac them to the motor mount so i dont have to fight with them when reinstalling the mounts. Thoughts on that?

20220315_182411.jpg


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20220321_160529.jpg
 
If the left side is full of washers it is a 318 motor mount and is typical of this “good enough” time we live in today it will work it’s just sloppy.
 
well i am open to suggestions...i was looking for something better than a bearing...they only had 3 of the 4 screws in on both sides......the engine i am bolting the mounts too is a 360
 
3 bolts per side is factory method correct so that is not the problem, what I see is that the rubber isolaters are shot and need to be replaced which you should be able to get at an auto parts or you can buy the urethane inserts and get rid of the rubber ones. The metal brackets you will need to keep to do either one you choose.A 360 left you should be able to get but if you can’t just re-use the 318 and space it as needed. I am guessing that the bearing was used to lift the motor so it would clear either the steering or the exhaust.
 
I guess I'm lost as to why you're putting washers on the passenger side mount (2nd & 3rd pic)- a 318 mount requires no shimming on the passenger side, a 360 is identical there. 318 & 360 use the same pass. side mount.
The driver's side mount is the one that requires a spacer to use a 318 mount on your 360- and only on the rear tab. It just needs to be 1/2 or 5/8" thick, IIRC. Use a steel bushing, spacer, stack of washers, whatever- just so it bolts up tight.
And get some big, fat washers on those through bolts, otherwise your motor mount will just pull out of the K frame again (first pic).
 
Professor Fate said:
I guess I'm lost as to why you're putting washers on the passenger side mount (2nd & 3rd pic)- a 318 mount requires no shimming on the passenger side, a 360 is identical there. 318 & 360 use the same pass. side mount.
The driver's side mount is the one that requires a spacer to use a 318 mount on your 360- and only on the rear tab. It just needs to be 1/2 or 5/8" thick, IIRC. Use a steel bushing, spacer, stack of washers, whatever- just so it bolts up tight.
And get some big, fat washers on those through bolts, otherwise your motor mount will just pull out of the K frame again (first pic).
Click to expand...


i never said pass side...the pass side is fine...all this is on the driver side....the pics i uploaded were of the driver side...just different angles
 
I may have a brand new factory mount. I seem to recall the aftermarket ones were wrong. I am presently out of the country...Aruba...but I can check when I get back. But if the right one is 11 bucks at Oreillys that'd be the way to go for sure.
 
so only 3 bolts to the block even though there are 4 holes? i am not counting the long one on the bottom
 
hotairgypsy said:
i never said pass side...the pass side is fine...all this is on the driver side....the pics i uploaded were of the driver side...just different angles
Click to expand...
THAT's what's goofing me up- in your pictures I assumed you were showing left and right mounts side by side- now that I look closer, I guess you're showing new and old...
 
those look like the same mounts i have but i ordered both and will pick them up in the next couple of hours
 
mopar65 said:
I would just buy the right mounts and then you don't have to mess with the extra washers. 318 mounts are spaced different compared to 340/360 engine mounts. Here is the stock replacement mount.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/.../v/a/2379/automotive-car-1975-plymouth-duster

Here is some performance mounts thst should last a very long time. But you use your factory outer mounts

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/.../v/a/2379/automotive-car-1975-plymouth-duster
Click to expand...



i picked up both a bit ago..they are the same frame wise but have bigger holes for the bolts...would not work at all on my project

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Wow sorry they should of worked. Unless they were boxed wrong or the factory doesn't know the difference. The 318 mount is wider on the drivers side. So I would just just use shims on the back bolt hole to make up the difference. A lot of people have done it that way. Or keep trying till you can find the factory size left motor mount
 
Thing of importance on something like this...dont get it right just get it running shim it and send it nothing can fail in this scenario
 
Don't look at my mount, it's aftermarket suspension, but that aluminum spacer is what you're talking about. Washers or spacer, no big deal, just do it.
If you look closely at the angle of the bolts, you will see why I tell people that have small vertical clearance issues that it can make a difference if you leave the weight of the engine on when tightening, or lift the engine when tightening these bolts.
20200626_195404.jpg
 
Shim it up....it should have no bearing...lol...I crack myself up sometimes.
 
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